Cannonball Run CBP 2012
Posted 24 July 2012 - 12:47 PM
Having finished 2 more i've now got a chance to get back to this.
Body sanding & construction is still on going but i've dug out the engine and made a start on that - 421 Poncho with blower from a Revell Parts Pack. I stripped most of the chrome a while back (all except sump, valve covers, timing cover etc) and am now battling with the slightly dubious parts fit and gaps around the bell housing. Also have to scratch up drive for both blower AND accessories.
Also - no gear box in the pack - why? seems like a strange decision Revell (albeit one made about 40 years ago! ).
Posted 24 July 2012 - 03:44 PM
Posted 24 July 2012 - 09:08 PM
Posted 25 July 2012 - 01:20 PM
Posted 25 July 2012 - 05:55 PM
Gold can be dicey, maybe you can related Slant. The body work can't have scratches and I still got a little speckling from overspray that I couldn't resolve. But I'm still going to add a layer of turn signal amber to tint the gold some so hopefully I can get away with rubbing the metallic a little.
Edited by Lunajammer, 25 July 2012 - 05:57 PM.
Posted 25 July 2012 - 06:07 PM
Posted 25 July 2012 - 10:57 PM
Enamel? Looks like enamel for some reason.
I'd leave it just like that and do no more to it because in my hands it'd never look as good as that again...
Edited by zenrat, 25 July 2012 - 10:57 PM.
Posted 26 July 2012 - 02:04 AM
My rant is a little different since I'm not quite ready to lay paint on the Dart. Last night I pulled out the kit to work on the front and rear suspentions and realized I had no model glue. When I left Chicago a few months ago I packed up my supplies and I know I was low on glue but I must have left it behind figueing I could get more down here. The really frustrating part is that I was at Hobby Lobby yestrerday after work (and also right next to a Hobbytown USA) but I didn't know I was out of glue then. Now I'm off work for 2 days and if I want to work on the model I have to drive 30 miles into Tampa or back to Lakeland to get glue.............Its always something.....if its not one thing its another. If its not too humid to paint, you're out of glue. (Read that last part in Roseanne Roseannadanna's voice).
Posted 05 August 2012 - 06:53 PM
Posted 08 August 2012 - 11:38 AM
And then decided to upgrade my operating system so they are still on the camera at home (i'm at "work").
However, i've shortened the chassis to fit the abbreviated body, got a long way into the engine and have reached the part of the bodywork I wasn't looking forward to - lengthening the roof.
Posted 08 August 2012 - 11:26 PM
Engine - i'm going with a tri-power set up rather than a blower to cut down on my fuel usage and give my drive train an easier life. Still a 421 block though.
Body - since this i've glued the missing roof panel in place. Front & rear are 2 cut down standard pick up roofs. Now to fill & sand & fill & sand & fill & sand &...
Edited by zenrat, 08 August 2012 - 11:27 PM.
Posted 09 August 2012 - 05:15 AM
Posted 10 August 2012 - 04:58 PM
from the Lindberg kit:
leafs shortened 1 mm:
To make the change I simply cut the leaf just in front of the rearend pearches and shortened the front segments. Then I drilled all of the pieces out and super glued a piece of wire into the holes to pin them together and give them some strength.
The K member was much more involved. In the Lindberg kit there are 8 attachment points for the front end parts, 4 blocks where the K member attaches to the front frame rails, 2 blocks that attach the lower control arms, and the 2 upper control arms where the spindles attach. First thing I did was cut off the lower control arm "blocks" and attach them to the actual lower control arms on the K member piece. On a real 62 (or any year Mopar B body) these pieces wouldn't actually exist, they just give the plastic pieces extra support. Well, actually, just the part that ataches to the frame rails wouldn't exist, part of this piece would be part of the real lower control arm where the torsion bar enters it. Next I cut away all 4 of the blocks where the K member attaches to the frame rails. Again, these pieces wouldn't exist on a real car. In 1:1 the K member would bolt directly into the frame rails. Once the blocks were removed I white glued ( I can't tell you how much I love Micro Krystle Kleer) them to the K member and relocated the K member where the wheels were centered in the wheelwells and marked where the blocks should go.
"stock" K member location:
"new" K member location:
I moved the K member back 2 mm. I left the upper control arms in place for all of this work so that I had a reference point to work off of. The blocks are now glued into their new location on the front frame rails but the K member still isn't glued on yet. Next step will be cutting the upper control arms from the frame and relocating them. Side note; if I was working with an AMT chassis (68 Road Runner, 69 GTX, or 70 Coronet) all of this work would have been MUCH easier as the front frame rails are molded as a seperate piece and I could have cut the mounting pins and slid the whole thing backwards 2 mm. Second side note; I was discussing all of this work with my friend Chris (von Zipper) and he asked a simple question. "wouldn't it have been easier to cut the frame rails and remove 2 mm then reattach them?" Short answer.......YES !!!......but.......I would have had to have known that the wheelbase was going to be adjusted before starting this build. When I did start, you might remember, the chassis out of the box didn't fit under the JoHan 62 body so I had to cut away at the rear of the chassis and the front splash pan. If I had known ahead of time I would have to adjust the wheelbase I could have cut the frame rails then and although I would still have had to trim the front splash pan it wouldn't have been as much. Since I had already cut the splash pan if I had cut the front frame rails I would have ended up with a gap at the front between the body and the chassis. The way Chris suggested doing it would actually be the prefered way to do this as it would move the radiator back also which would be more correct than the way I'm doing things but as I've stated, I didn't know all of this when I started. Who would have though that it would have been so much work to put a 64 Mopar chassis under a 62 Mopar ???.....in 1:1 they are essentially the same, in plastic, the Lindberg kit is VERY off in many dimentions compaired to the real car. Its surprising that nobody on any forum has ever called them out on these kits (the 64 Plymouth has many of the same dimentional problems). Now that all of that is sorted out the only real hurtles left are correcting the dept of the interior and paint. The interior should be pretty easy, I'm not even going to bother trying to add more detail to the JoHan door panels even though I'd like to, that seems like too much of a challenge, I think I'll just add the arm rests from the Lindberg kit and extend them down to meet with the chassis. Paint might give me a problem as I've never tried to paint in this kind of climate and I'll be using an old can of Testors enamel rather than the new laquers I've gotten used to over the past few years.
Edited by slantasaurus, 10 August 2012 - 05:05 PM.
Posted 14 August 2012 - 05:46 PM
In fact, i'm glad someone can be bothered putting so much work into chassis mods when it can be so much easier to just chop chunks out and then never show anyone.
Didn't know about GMC using Poncho donks. That's filed in the cerebral filing cabinet (one big drawer labelled Misc.).
The grille is actually a minor problem as I only have the version from the Street Machine kit which has rectangular headlights. Now, i'm pretty sure these were around in '62 but i'd prefer round units so i've ordered a replacement grille from The Modelhaus which i'm hoping will fit - depends on how much difference there is between the old promos i'm assuming the parts are cast from and the much newer AMT kit I'm using.
I've also ordered some vac formed "glass" as my kit arrived with a crack half way down the dead centre of the windscreen. Again, my fingers are crossed over whether it will fit.
Posted 27 August 2012 - 04:23 PM
And I think this car needs a couple chromium roll bars to raise the visual height behind the tall windshield. Oh, and of course, (ahem) safety.
Posted 30 August 2012 - 04:00 PM
That said - everything here looks AMAZING. Going to have to come strong. Back to the lab for now.