Anyone here tried Denatured Alcohol? I have a few cans in the shop and am going to do some testing,see what happens.
The Ultimate Paint Stripping Thread
Posted 03 April 2013 - 09:47 AM
I've been using upside-down AMT showcases for about 10 years now, mostly because they're stackable; I have 2 in almost constant use with different strippers in them(CSC and ScaleCoat) depending on the job at hand.
Posted 03 April 2013 - 10:39 AM
Just tried a "new" idea from an old timer...Acetone and water. YES I said acetone and water. Mix 2 oz water to 1 pint acetone. If you do not add water the acetone will melt plastic! Immerse , let sit 10 minutes and with a pair of nitril gloves use a stiff brush to flush the surface and watch the paint slide off. This works on all paints, and both resin and styrene .
Bill you are a genius !! this removed everything, including primer / filler
Posted 03 April 2013 - 01:31 PM
Posted 16 April 2013 - 03:35 AM
I tried removing some lacquer paint from an old body project of mine. I used DOT4 brake fluid, with 50% success. There is still a lot of excess paint regardless of how hard I scrub. Any other suggestions? Also what could I use to remove Testors enamel?
Edited by Raskoraz, 16 April 2013 - 09:55 AM.
Posted 16 April 2013 - 04:02 AM
Easy off oven cleaner is good for enamel. l think that Testors easy lift off is the best out there for paint removel..
Posted 16 April 2013 - 04:06 AM
Scrub/sand through to the primer in a half dozen spots and let the chemical attack the primer beneath. That is really the key to good paint removal and for any type of paint. The primers are much more porous and cannot stand up to most of the chemicals we are using today for paint removal. The paint should slough off like a snake skin afterward.
Posted 16 April 2013 - 06:03 PM
If there was no primer and you lacquered directly onto the plastic, the paint has etched into the plastic and you won't have 100-percent success. If that's the case, for trouble spots you might do as well to sand on it with fine grit.
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:17 AM
I'm sure this has been answered a few times but i cant find it yet.
What is the best way to strip off Faskolor lexan paint? My dad wanted me to paint this body for him back in 2001. He brought me his airbrush, this paint and the model and said i want it this color. I did not know what i was doing, it was sprayed at almost 80 psi with the wrong paint and has sat and cured for 12 years now. Its a water based paint if that helps. Am almost tempted to sand the runs smooth and try to airbrush over it with an acrylic paint. Any suggestions?
Posted 26 April 2013 - 12:14 AM
Hello, i am new to MCM, name is stu & mostly build 1/24 tamiya sports cars, jgtc, super gt, le mans, dtm & recently 1/48 fighters. have been modeling for a while now, but i have a bit of a problem.
my currnet project is Tamiya's Repsol Porsche 962c. i must admit not a great kit, lacks detail & windows are molded in (not cool) but a challenge still,
everything was going good until wet coat time, spraying with iwata hp series, 18psi, paint was of milk consistansy
layed down a wet coat & it all turned too poo, airbrush spat half way through, had 4 runs, bits of dust,
not used to using airbrush on the bodies, up until now used spray can, with good results
now the color is metallic & its enamel, ive heard that you dont polish metallic cause they get lighter, wich i found out the hard way, is there a way i can fix this, i cant strip back the body cause i dont have any spare masks to do windows again.
can i rub it back with 1200 on main area's & potentialy give it another go?
was getting impatient, & currently letting body sit in brake fluid but it doesnt seem to be doing much, how long does it take?
Posted 26 April 2013 - 01:52 AM
My stripper of choice is Polly S Easy Lift off. It has never failed me. You just paint it on with a wide brush and let it sit. Sometimes it takes a couple applications. Also Castrol Super Clean is another good alternative as well as East Off oven cleaner....and not the lemon scent oven cleaner. The original easy off.
You can try to sand it smooth and paint it again.
Try easy lift off. Usually available in hobby shops. I assume its available in Australia, but if not I do know Easy off overn cleaner is. If you use oven cleaner, spray it all down and put it in a freezer bag.
Posted 26 April 2013 - 02:42 AM
Like many here on the forum, I've found that Super Clean or a similar product called Purple Power will strip most paint jobs off if you soak it overnight. These products are also a bit easier to clean up afterward than brake fluid. They're cheap and readily available (at least in the U.S.) at many "big box" stores like Wal-Mart, so I'd guess that you'll be able to find them Down Under as well.
Posted 07 June 2013 - 10:40 AM
Posted 07 June 2013 - 12:47 PM
Been around a long time and worked great for me (also great for its original purpose, to remove baked-on junk for cooking pans).
Edited by sjordan2, 08 June 2013 - 04:45 AM.
Posted 19 August 2013 - 05:33 AM
Posted in wrong thread
Edited by sjordan2, 19 August 2013 - 06:50 AM.
Posted 19 August 2013 - 03:30 PM
I've used both the Dawn and the Purple Power with mixed results. Neither was miraculous (except for Tamiya ultra fine white primer and spray flat black). My scrubbing tool of choice was an old toothbrush and I sat two poorly painted bodies in Dawn so long the jello-like texture of the product actually evaporated entirely. This occured over a week, with daily scrubbing and nightly soaking using 2 spray bottles worth of Dawn.
After less than complete results, I washed both bodies and switched to Purple Power. It started as purple coolaid texture and eventually changed to a jello-like consistency, similar to the Dawn. During the process, I actually brushed too hard and put scratches into the softened bodies! Ultimately, enough of the multi-coat paint was removed to allow me to finish the job with sandpaper and small files. I have searched subsequent threads and the conclusion is that some sort of initial sanding or similar technique would allow the paint remover under the surface of the outermost paint layers and access the layers underneath to more effective start the stripping process.
Just thought this might help some other amatuers like me who've been struggling with learning to paint and may be left with orange peel on your faces...
Posted 18 September 2013 - 11:27 AM
Ok, My first paint removal job. Used Purple Power on two bodies (both painted in the last month) painted with Testors. Got a plastic tub, put in the stuff, let soak for three days. At first I didn't think it had worked, then when I put on a soft tooth brush the paint came right off like soft wet powder. After removing the second body from tub wiped off with paper towel, then washed with dish soap, looks like it did before I painted it. The other body I did not wipe with paper towel after removing from tub and there was a little residue, very light in some places. Had I wiped with paper towel that would have been removed. It will easily come off with light sanding, in fact I probably don't even need to do that.
I just put in a body that I painted (very badly!) 15yrs ago, there's maybe 10 coats of enamel on it we'll see how it does on that.
Posted 12 October 2013 - 11:19 AM
Is there any consensus on what will strip old ('60s) flat black enamel effectively? I have a '62 Continental that needs its chassis and underside of the hood cleaned. So far I've soaked the hood in the purple stuff (Zep brand from Home Depot) and DOT3 brake fluid and it lightened up with some toothbrush scrubbing, but that was it; I haven't used Easy-Off yet but don't recall it working well on flat black either. The rest of the paint, lime gold metalflake and gloss brown enamel, came off with purple stuff and brake fluid (purple stuff wouldn't budge the brown but brake fluid did).
Posted 12 October 2013 - 03:19 PM
Is there any consensus on what will strip old ('60s) flat black enamel effectively?
That seems to be the most difficult paint to remove, so I don't think I've heard of any best stripper for removing it.
Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:08 AM
To James Herald- Lightly scuff the surface with 180 grit to break the paint, then shoot with Easy Off oven cleaner (full strength, and remember to use gloves and ventilation!) This should remove the acrylic paint in a matter of hours.
STU- It sounds to me as if you allowed the airbrush to sit between coats without cleaning. Strip the paint (as you are doing) Then start over. After each coat run an appropriate cleaner through the airbrush to keep the paint inside it from drying and creating clogs. Without knowing what type of paint you are using, I'm going to guess enamel. If that is the case, keep the pressure at 18 psi, until the wet coat. Then up it to 22/24 psi and spray from about one foot away. Again, the key is keeping the airbrush clean between coats.
Christopher- Easy off is what I have found to be the best at stripping any black paint if you use a couple tricks. As mentioned above, break the surface (especially on gloss blacks) with a rough sandpaper, 180 grit works for me. Soak with easy off and allow it to work for about 24 hours. When you come back to it the Easy Off will be nearly dried. Not to worry because the water will re-activate it. Use luke warm water and an old toothbrush. Cold water will work against you by retarding the chemical reaction. Hot water could potentially warp parts. Good luck to all.