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Lexus LFA


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#1 Scale-Master

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:38 AM

I have been wanting to build this since I picked it up last year at the LBGP from Tamiya, but needed to get some things in order (finished), and decide on a color. I decided last night…

The body is very thin and crisply molded. I spent about 2-3 hours cleaning up the delicate mold lines on all the body and wing parts. Primed it with Tamiya fine white primer and put a base coat of TS-45 Pearl White down.
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I found a non-pearl white (at least is does not look pearl in the photos) version with a carbon fiber top and rear wing that looks sharp to me. I used ScaleMotorSports Hi-Def decals (1/20 scale to make the pattern a bit more pronounced).
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Once the decal had dried, I clear coated it.
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#2 whale392

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:49 AM

Very nice so far, and I have to say I like the Scale Motorsports decals as well. Brittle if handled rough, but they do look exceptionally nice when applied correctly.

I always wanted to take the LFA and do some work to it to try and create what I think the 5th Generation Supra could have been. It already has some great lines and a killer powertrain.

#3 hotrod59f100

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:56 AM

Looks stunning. I beet to get my hands on som of the carbon . What's it cost for the decal and how much do you get.

#4 whale392

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:57 AM

$20 and it is one sheet, I believe. Rick at Scaledreams.com has some in stock.

#5 moparmagiclives

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:57 AM

Very sharp looking color combo already.
I read about that kit in SA a wile back, I've yet to try an import kit but I sure liked the looks of that car in the magazine.

#6 Haubenschild

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:03 PM

Its looking fantastic already! . What clear did you spray over the decal and are you going to do anything to strengthen the A pillars since they are very thin?

#7 LAone

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:17 PM

sweet, im really looking forward to this one. :D the carbon looks great. like you, i thing the 1/20 is way better for 1/24 scale. it's what i use.

#8 Scale-Master

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:22 PM

Thanks guys.
Yes, the decals can be brittle, but heating them up before putting them in water helps. They respond very well with heat. I used a (home made) decal solvent too. It has been a while since I bought any C/F decals, I didn't realize they were that much now, still a very good product.

I'm not going to do anything to the A-Pillars, except treat them with respect.

I used Matrix clear, but thinned it down about twice what it should be. Shot the hood too, here is what it looks like now that it has dried.
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#9 LAone

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:39 PM

oooh that is very nice.

home made aye..nice. the only problem i had with old carbon decal is that hey fall apart in water. guess it has a shelf life?? i was told that i can shoot a bit of clear or use micro mark decal saver...haven't tried it yet.

#10 moparmagiclives

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:05 PM

If I may ask, what your home made decal solution? Or is it top secret?

#11 Romell R

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:10 PM

Very nice my friend , cant wait to see more. B)

#12 Scale-Master

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:05 PM

If I may ask, what your home made decal solution? Or is it top secret?

Not really top secret, I am still formulating and experimenting with it. I am making progress and getting good (semi consistent) results, but I would hate to have someone try it and damage their decals. Until I have a formula that is safe, I'll hold off from sharing it.

#13 whale392

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:12 PM

Thanks for sharing, Mark.

I have had fair results with the Micro-Set/Micro-Sol route and Scale Motorsports decals. I will wet the decal with water and spread the Micro-Set on the model surface. Once the decal is in place, I will dab it dry while working mild heat over it. Then I will work 4 or 5 sittings of Micro-Sol into the decal. Let it sit for 2-3 days and clear over it.

#14 Scale-Master

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:52 PM

I have been using Mr. Mark Softer by Gunze Sangyo. It is great product and predictable to me, but like a lot of things, when you find something you like, it disappears.
I know what the basic ingredients of decal solvents and setting solutions are, so I decided I would try my hand at making something from the raw ingredients (which I had some of under my shop bathroom sink, and I raided my parents medicine cabinet) so I won't have to worry about it being discontinued.

I used heat on this one too, and used a similar application routine as you describe to make it pliable, but dried it off as soon as it was in place. (Spent about 30 minutes getting it smoothed out.) Let it bake in the sun for an hour or two, then shot it.

#15 Harry P.

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 04:32 PM

The CF roof panel looks very cool. What did you clear it with?

#16 Scale-Master

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:40 PM

The CF roof panel looks very cool. What did you clear it with?

Thanks Harry.

I used Matrix clear, but thinned it down about twice what it should be.



#17 Erik Smith

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:43 PM

Roof does look cool - almost looks like a photovoltaic.

This is really great looking car - so far, a great looking build as well. Very fine job on the paint.

#18 Scale-Master

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:01 AM

That is a good observation Erik, I may have to use C/F for the Ferrari SuperAmerica roof...

I drilled out the rotors with a pin vise. Still doing a little clean up with a reamer… Man are my fingers tender.
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#19 Dirkpitt289

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:05 AM

Did you say that the roof was a carbon fiber decal? Can I ask where you got it from? That is very cool.

#20 Scale-Master

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:45 AM

The exhaust is called out to be assembled after being fed through the rear cross member leaving a seam to be dealt with on one of the exhaust pipes. But if you only cement the pipe together (see seam on lower pipe about a third of the way in front of the muffler) and do not cement them together just behind the catalytic converters, you can squeeze them though the cross member after fully finish painting them.
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Bottom of the engine and the transaxle assemblies…
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Driveline and exhaust assembled.
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