Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:38 AM
The body is very thin and crisply molded. I spent about 2-3 hours cleaning up the delicate mold lines on all the body and wing parts. Primed it with Tamiya fine white primer and put a base coat of TS-45 Pearl White down.
I found a non-pearl white (at least is does not look pearl in the photos) version with a carbon fiber top and rear wing that looks sharp to me. I used ScaleMotorSports Hi-Def decals (1/20 scale to make the pattern a bit more pronounced).
Once the decal had dried, I clear coated it.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:49 AM
I always wanted to take the LFA and do some work to it to try and create what I think the 5th Generation Supra could have been. It already has some great lines and a killer powertrain.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:56 AM
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:57 AM
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:57 AM
I read about that kit in SA a wile back, I've yet to try an import kit but I sure liked the looks of that car in the magazine.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:03 PM
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:17 PM
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:22 PM
Yes, the decals can be brittle, but heating them up before putting them in water helps. They respond very well with heat. I used a (home made) decal solvent too. It has been a while since I bought any C/F decals, I didn't realize they were that much now, still a very good product.
I'm not going to do anything to the A-Pillars, except treat them with respect.
I used Matrix clear, but thinned it down about twice what it should be. Shot the hood too, here is what it looks like now that it has dried.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:39 PM
home made aye..nice. the only problem i had with old carbon decal is that hey fall apart in water. guess it has a shelf life?? i was told that i can shoot a bit of clear or use micro mark decal saver...haven't tried it yet.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:05 PM
Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:05 PM
Not really top secret, I am still formulating and experimenting with it. I am making progress and getting good (semi consistent) results, but I would hate to have someone try it and damage their decals. Until I have a formula that is safe, I'll hold off from sharing it.
If I may ask, what your home made decal solution? Or is it top secret?
Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:12 PM
I have had fair results with the Micro-Set/Micro-Sol route and Scale Motorsports decals. I will wet the decal with water and spread the Micro-Set on the model surface. Once the decal is in place, I will dab it dry while working mild heat over it. Then I will work 4 or 5 sittings of Micro-Sol into the decal. Let it sit for 2-3 days and clear over it.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:52 PM
I know what the basic ingredients of decal solvents and setting solutions are, so I decided I would try my hand at making something from the raw ingredients (which I had some of under my shop bathroom sink, and I raided my parents medicine cabinet) so I won't have to worry about it being discontinued.
I used heat on this one too, and used a similar application routine as you describe to make it pliable, but dried it off as soon as it was in place. (Spent about 30 minutes getting it smoothed out.) Let it bake in the sun for an hour or two, then shot it.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 04:32 PM
Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:40 PM
The CF roof panel looks very cool. What did you clear it with?
I used Matrix clear, but thinned it down about twice what it should be.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:43 PM
This is really great looking car - so far, a great looking build as well. Very fine job on the paint.
Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:01 AM
I drilled out the rotors with a pin vise. Still doing a little clean up with a reamer… Man are my fingers tender.
Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:05 AM
Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:45 AM
Bottom of the engine and the transaxle assemblies…
Driveline and exhaust assembled.