AMT '57 Chevrolet Slot Car kit review.
Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:25 AM
Initial look at the box art shows this to be beautiful! Vintage colors, no expense spared on printing and packaging.
Parts under a blister just like the old days... and still hard to remove from same....
Two types of window glass are provided: injection molded clear (including headlights) and vacuumformed and tinted full glass. This is handy as there is no provided interior details whatsoever.
Decal sheet seems complete and is extremely well printed. Appear thin enough to disappear under clear coat... that is if I plan to go shiny. Frankly, I plan to go period dirt track.... but that is later.
Little baggies of parts...
Two piece guide? Some assembly required here....
In this day and age, why AMT engineers choose to re-invent the wheel I do not understand. But... it does go together with little fuss and seems like it'll work fairly well.
The guide is after all, patterned after Parma almost to the dimension. Nice that the threads go all the way down though eliminating the need for a threading tool. Parma item will not fit the chassis without modifications to the chassis as we will see later.
Wheels are plastic/nylon material. No set screws. They press fit onto the axle like some of the 1/32 kits do.
Inside dimension just about perfect for a set of inserts. Tire are soft rubber and will provide fairly good traction with this motor. Front and rears are the same material and all four wheels same size.
Motor has little markings and the magnets are no where near as strong as those in a TSR motor. However, spinning up on the tester shows it to have plenty of torque. This explains why it comes with a 3.75 to 1 ratio. The aluminum adaptor is there to convert the motor screws from vertical to horizontal. This is interesting to me. Why not simply make the chassis with horizontal holes in the first place?
But... that means it fits this motor with no mods.... http://slotblog.net/...fault/smile.png
This motor, btw, is in my hop up kit for part four!
Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:54 AM
Posted 09 February 2012 - 07:15 AM
With the adjustments and the wheel spacers, this chassis can fit almost any 1/24th scale model kit body.
But the spacers are not easy to cut. I tried cutting them with an exacto blade....
But a cutoff wheel in the Dremel seems to work more quickly. The '57 Chevy required .15 front and .45 rear spacers by the way.
Using the vintage white nylon spacers would have been easier and more precise tho.
I would say that it took me a good solid 2 hours to build as I took my time making sure everything went together well. The gears have me a bit worried. The set screw doesn't go deep enough so the gear rocks slightly. No way to set gear lash... a lot like Scalextric does with their 1:32 cars.
By the way... TSR motor will not fit.
Clearance under the chassis is a hefty 5/32". Guide is positioned 1/4" behind the front axle. When it pivots the stops are unfortunately the lead wires. Don't think they will last long mounted there. Soldering them to the brass tabs sticking out seems more logical.
Mounting and painting is next.
Posted 09 February 2012 - 07:18 AM
Posted 09 February 2012 - 07:29 AM
Edited by plowboy, 09 February 2012 - 07:30 AM.
Posted 09 February 2012 - 07:41 AM
Posted 09 February 2012 - 07:51 AM
I would love to have one of these,but there isn't a track anywhere near me that I'm aware of. Just out of curiosity,how much does one of these kits cost?
Roger, I feel your pain. I'd love to build one of these and race it but we don't have a track anywhere near. Jairus, you really are crazy about this part of the hobby, and it's infectious. Thanks for the eye candy and the inspiration.
Posted 09 February 2012 - 09:05 AM
The body is set up using brass tubing under the lower quarters until a correct stance is achieved.
Then, move the light like so....
... and you can see the chassis mounting bracket. Use the Sharpie NOW!
Drill holes in the body on the marks and run those screws home. Yeah, as a modeler it's pretty crude, but is the strongest mounting option and provides the quickest way to remove the body. Screws can be painted to match the body btw.
Posted 09 February 2012 - 09:06 AM
The car as you see it here weighs in at a flyweight of 143g. In my opinion (And Gregg mentioned this as well) it could do with some careful placement of lead, available at your local slot shop or via mail order.
Instructions suggest trimming away some of the engine compartment for chassis clearance. I agree with this if one is mounting the body lower than stock looking like I did. It would also help lower the center of gravity. But the option is also there to superdetail this project with an opening hood and fully detailed engine compartment. Also, while the kit does not provide any sort of interior... one could be sourced from a well supplied stash of '57 Chevrolet bits with clearance cut out of the rear seat area to provide room for the motor. Driver figure also will need to be sourced.
This is my last post today as paint and details take longer to accomplish. Shooting primer next!
Posted 09 February 2012 - 09:57 AM
Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:24 AM
Posted 12 February 2012 - 01:20 PM
Posted 13 February 2012 - 02:22 PM
Bill, counter sunk screws would work fine. The body is no thinner than any other AMT 1957 Chevy casting.
This is the look I'm going for...
The body currently has a coat of "Plastakote" primer, but earlier I removed all the engine compartment walls and glued the hood shut with JB Weld.
Also need to cut a flat plate for the interior and make a roll bar.... etc, etc.
Edited by Jairus, 13 February 2012 - 02:23 PM.
Posted 19 February 2012 - 03:48 AM
Mount the Body so that it has .063 clearance between it and the track. make sure that your guide moves freely arount it post, but make sure that there is no wobbly in the guide, and that it self centers using the leed wires to center it.
You Can get 1/24 lexan and card stock racing interiors from either the local Commercial Slot Car Track, or online Dealers, such as Professor Motor.
Make sure you put some super glue in the wheel hob before pressing the wheels onto the axles, and be very careful to makesure the wheels are straight. always true your tyres by running them against a flat surface containg a sheet of medium grit sand paper. Use a light touch here, you don't want to bind it up and burn out your motor.
I hope this will be of help to those who are going to purchase and build these kits
Edited by Tom Setzer, 19 February 2012 - 04:00 AM.
Posted 25 February 2012 - 09:56 AM
Parma guide, braids, gear
Professor Motor repop Russkit drivers head and chassis lead, Lancer driver station sourced from P.M.
Drill blank 1/8" axles
And some modifications to the chassis:
Wish I had time to play with it...
Posted 25 February 2012 - 03:42 PM
Ground away at the guide holder so it could fit a decent flag by Parma and a set of standard pickup braids.
The front axle holes fit a set of 3/32" axle ball bearing races with-out modification.
Out back however, it took a stepped drill to open up the holes to 1/4" in order to accept 1/8" axle bearings. However in this case, since the rear end was so narrow I used a set of "Duffy made" extensions soldered into the openings to extend the track of the bearings a little wider.
Still, the ride height under the chassis screws is quite a bit above the minimum 1/16" track clearance. Looks like I might need to turn down the rear wheels a bit... or mount the rear chassis lead weight UNDER the frame, thus keeping the CGI low as possible.
At any rate, here is the finished, modified chassis ready for the track. (Think the paint on the body is pretty much cured, time to decal and finish this puppy!)
Posted 02 March 2012 - 05:41 PM
Edited by rv1963, 02 March 2012 - 05:43 PM.
Posted 05 March 2012 - 04:54 PM
Wish I could find the time to get the body detailing done tho....
Posted 24 July 2012 - 12:20 AM
Edited by Dave Mikrut, 24 July 2012 - 12:21 AM.
Posted 07 August 2012 - 08:45 AM