Venting a paint booth
Posted 02 March 2012 - 10:20 AM
I was thinking I have two options to prevent this (if it will happen at all). Make an internal "flapper" that I can turn by lever open or closed to block off the dryer portion when I'm using the paint booth. OR worst case I'd have to disconnect the dryer portion and cap it off each time I use the paint booth. I'd rather NOT have to go that route. Anyone share any experiences on this with me ?? Thanks fellas.
Posted 02 March 2012 - 10:59 AM
Any "Y" or "flapper" also has the potential to trap lint which is NEVER good for dryers, and most likely against building code.
I have a booth only a few feet from our dryer and I chose to put in another flapper vent in the outside wall of the house.
Not a big deal, cheap and FAR superior way to deal with the fumes.
On aside note... have fun with the dust/lint associated with having it so near your dryer. I fight this EVERY time I spray.
Plans to separate the room are in place and should cure these issues.
Posted 02 March 2012 - 11:03 AM
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Posted 02 March 2012 - 12:30 PM
Edited by steve7119, 02 March 2012 - 12:32 PM.
Posted 02 March 2012 - 12:44 PM
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Posted 02 March 2012 - 03:26 PM
Posted 03 March 2012 - 04:25 AM
#1 Unless you are going to be painting with a full-sized production spray gun, the amount of "fumes" you might generate will be rather small really. Still, that's not something I would want to possibly "back-flow" into a clothes dryer, even in minute amounts--not worth the risks.
#2 Vapors from the paints we use won't soften or dissolve a plastic dryer vent hose--the vapors or "fumes" are no longer liquid--by the time your paint overspray is a foot from your airbrush (even rattle can) the liquid solvents have evaporated, and in any event, any liquid solvents will be trapped by the filter in your spray booth. So you should be able to use either a plastic dryer vent hose (which I did for more than 10yrs with no problems) or the more readily available metal foil hoses.
#3 A plug for a window is very easily made. I have done this a couple of times, being a committed apartment dweller. For a sash window, simply cut a piece of particle board or plywood (in fact I used a tempered particle board utility shelf I bought at Menard's for less than $10). Cut the material to the width of the window channel so that when you set it in the open window it goes all the way to the framing on both sides, then when the sash is pulled down on top of it, it's very secure. The proper size hole cutter will make for a perfect fit for your dryer vent. For a casement window, if that window cranks outward, the same sort of plug works just fine. For a basement window, IF you own the house, simply remove one of the panes of glass, replace that with a piece of marine or exterior plywood (seal the wood first!) then cut the hole for your dryer vent, and install it.
#4, It's not a good idea to vent paint fumes into an attic or crawl space; if for no other reason than doing so will put the smell right back into your house,
Not a good idea if domestic tranquility is your goal! Of course, there would also be the very slight possibility of a fire hazard.
All this said, I think it's wise to bear in mind that the amounts of paint we are likely to use, particularly with an airbrush, is really quite small--I know that when I set up my airbrush for painting, I seldom ever use more than about 1/2 fluid ounce of paint and thinner at any one sitting. However, even that small amount of thinned paint, especially since I use lacquer thinner even with enamel paints can create quite a smell--lacquer thinner fumes spread quickly, and are very noticeable. However, with my Pace Peacemaker, nobody in adjacent apartments never hear the thing run, and they never have mentioned even smelling paint--and I have a very persnickety older lady living downstairs, right below my model room. It DOES "keep the peace" here for sure!
Posted 25 March 2012 - 11:07 AM