393 replies to this topic

[midnightprowler]

Man, I cant see a single pic. Would anyone be willing to email me pics? A link to photobucket, or fotki, etc wont work.

[bbowser]

This and the 57 Ford are at the top of the 'must have' list for this year. Showroom stock first, then NASCAR versions at a later date. Separate frame, nicely done steelies, the engine looks very nice. I love the delicate hood ornament (without flash). Are there parting lines on the bumper? Overall I'm impressed.

[Ace-Garageguy]

............... Now I'm really beginning to wonder how well some of the existing speed parts for Olds Rocket V8s in old Revell and AMT kits might adapt to this kit's engine.

Here's the answer. In the foreground is my mashup of the old Revell Olds from the SWC Willys et al, with the AMT front casting from the '40 Ford Tudor kit. The top-shift LaSalle gearbox is from the Revell MissDeal funny car with an added shifter boss on top. The stock valve covers from the new Revell engine fit fine on the old heads.

In the background is the new Revell '50 Olds 303 (the basic engine looks much like the 324, 371 and 394 built thru '63) with the AMT 3X2 manifold from the '40 Tudor (which fits the old Revell engine perfectly), incorrect finned valve covers from a small-block Chevy (the later Olds valve covers should have 3 bolt-holes on the bottom rail, not two), and headers from the Revell SWC 394-based Olds motor (the green one). The angle of the manifold faces on the heads is correct, the exhaust-port spacing is correct, and the length of the valve-cover faces of the heads is fine.

The new Revell engine has a side-shift MANUAL 3 SPEED transmission representative of the Cadillac / LaSalle / Olds (available on the Olds through '53). This trans is appropriate for many other hot-rod applications too. The shape of the water pipe coming out of the top of the front cover / water pump casting is more correct on the new version, and so is the fuel pump. The new version also has the correct number of oil pan bolts.

In short, the new Revell Olds engine is a little more accurate than the old Revell version, WAY more accurate than the old AMT Olds from the '40 Tudor, and ALL of the speed equipment from the older issues from AMT and Revell will fit the new engine.





This also illustrates the importance of 'scale' in scale-models. Because ALL of the available Olds engines have been reasonably accurately scaled in the most important dimensions, the speed equipment interchanges pretty much as it would in 1:1.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 03 October 2012 - 01:47 PM.

[bigphoto]

I may get one just to build the Pan American race version!

[Paul Dutram]

So anyone have any suggestions for a paint brand/color for the engine?

[Ace-Garageguy]

So anyone have any suggestions for a paint brand/color for the engine?

Re: olds rocket engine color?
Fusick auto parts

1937-51 All Models Green Engine Paint EP50S16 oz aerosol can 15.50 ea.
1952-56 All Models Green Engine Paint EP60S16 oz aerosol can 15.50 ea.
1957-58 All Models Gold Engine Paint EP70S16 oz aerosol can 15.50 ea.

I used a gloss Krylon Indoor / Outdoor Hunter Green for the early green. It's just a tad too blue in daylight, but it's a fair representation of the color, especially after all the accessories are painted and installed.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 01 October 2012 - 03:42 AM.

[kustomkat1]

On the side of the box it says TAMPO PRINTED TIRES. What Happened? the white wall decals look ridiculous, MOEBIUS to the rescue!!

Edited by kustomkat1, 30 September 2012 - 06:05 PM.

[GerN]

Really great photos - thanks!

[sjordan2]

The hood fit is great. If you are painting the kit, you will need to take a light swipe on the sides with a sanding stick to leave room for the paint thickness. There is also a little bit of flash and parting line cleanup on the back of the hood and the insides of the front fenders, but it is minimal and easy to clean up. So far, it looks like a pretty well engineered kit. All of the mold lines seem easily removed, and nothing runs across the middle of a detailed area.

I am going to grab a 51 Chevy kit or two from the stash today and hold them up next to the olds to see if it will be possible to kitbash the roofs. I know it will take abit of surgery, including some lengthening and widening of the chevy roofs, but if it is possible, that allows us to do the hardtop and fastback versions of this car too. It might also be fairly easy to make a convertable, using a couple of the Chevy parts as the interior is mostly straight lines. I can see this one being hacked into a four door too.

Lucas has a Drag Racing decal sheet, and a few stock car sheets for it. I am sure that a resin caster will do the sedan version, so that we can use the Pan American decals in the kit correctly, and I was even staring at pics of the wagon. It would be a lot of work, but the results would be spectacular. There are seven basic body styles of the 88, plus it could be made as a 76 if the right engine could be found.

So many ideas, so little time...

Here's some food for thought, owned by a Metallica band member. Love the venetian blinds.
I don't know why the page link below takes you to the home page, but you have to go to Cars for Sale, then scroll in alphabetical order.

http://goo.gl/Amkw5

Edited by sjordan2, 01 October 2012 - 06:40 AM.

[plowboy]

Couldn't a person just do a simple front end, tail light/trim swap with the '51 Chevy fastback to get the fastback? Could possibly work with the convertible also. Looks like both are based on the same chassis and body shell. One could take the old Revell 1/25 delivery and build a cool Olds delivery out of the two. There are tons of possibilities with this kit!

Edited by plowboy, 01 October 2012 - 06:49 AM.

[Ace-Garageguy]

.......I've been carefully analyzing the moves necessary to make a fastback '50 Olds using the AMT '51 Chevy fleetline roof section. So far, this looks to be made a little trickier by a couple of things. First, the doors of the '50 Olds are significantly longer than the doors on the Chevy. It's unlikely this is the case in 1:1, as they were both based on the same body-shell tooling and photographs of both cars seem to convincingly indicate the doors were in fact the same length. The discrepancy will necessitate more rework of the B-pillars. The difference in length between the two cars appears, as it is in reality, to be ahead of the firewall and so will not effect the roof transplant.

The second problem is the shape of the windshield opening. They are not the same at all on the models, while they ARE the same in 1:1. GM did NOT change all of the tooling related to the windshield opening on the bodyshell between 1950 and 1951. And though the 1:1 Olds has one-piece glass and the Chevy has a divider, it was common to swap the one-piece windshield into the cheaper car during customization. That's a pretty convincing argument that they SHOULD be the same shape.

I'm pretty sure the deviations from scale will be in the older AMT tooling, because the new Revell Olds looks very very good. I was rather hoping to be able to graft the roof in its entirety on to the Olds body shell, but preserving the shape of the windshield opening of the Olds (to avoid making a custom windshield) will dictate a splice having to be made through the center of the roof. Certainly straightforward enough for an old top-chopper, but more work anyway.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Couldn't a person just do a simple front end, tail light/trim swap with the '51 Chevy fastback to get the fastback? Could possibly work with the convertible also. Looks like both are based on the same chassis and body shell.

Not if you want an accurate model. The front fenders of the Olds are longer than the Chevy in 1:1, and the Olds has a longer wheelbase. As stated in my post above, the doors on the Chevy model are the wrong length, and the windshield opening shape isn't right. On the 1:1 cars, the rear outer fenders are different shapes on the two cars (the Chevy fenders are flatter on the sides), not just trim deviations.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 01 October 2012 - 01:24 PM.

[Michigan Madman]

Here's some food for thought, owned by a Metallica band member. Love the venetian blinds.
I don't know why the page link below takes you to the home page, but you have to go to Cars for Sale, then scroll in alphabetical order.

He has/had a nice suede green one I was thinking of replicating using this kit, until I realized it was a '52...

[horsepower]

So, I didn't see an answer to the question about the J-2 parts that were shown in the pictures comparing the final version to the test shot version. Aren't these included in this kit? They appeared to be the carbs, intake,& an extra set of valve covers, possibly the ones with the "bumps" for high lift cams so the rockers wouldn't hit the valve covers.

[Rob Hall]

So, I didn't see an answer to the question about the J-2 parts that were shown in the pictures comparing the final version to the test shot version. Aren't these included in this kit? They appeared to be the carbs, intake,& an extra set of valve covers, possibly the ones with the "bumps" for high lift cams so the rockers wouldn't hit the valve covers.

Perhaps those parts are for the next variation of the kit in 2013?

[Casey]

Perhaps those parts are for the next variation of the kit in 2013?

I would guess that's the case. A NASCAR version is sure to follow, to go head-to-head with the Moebius Hudson Hornets.

Not sure if the NASCAR version even used those speed parts or not, but I'm sure we'll know more on October 11th.

[Longbox55]

[Ace-Garageguy]

He has/had a nice suede green one I was thinking of replicating using this kit, until I realized it was a '52...

Well Chuck, with your skills, all you'd have to do to make a passable model is remove the rear quarter-panel outers and replace them with flatter sheet styrene, and sculpt-in the kicked-up character line at the top and the kink at the bottom with bondo.

[Casey]

on rigth side i see a Jtwo sixpack setup and some kind of custom hupcaps

Those look like '56 Olds Fiesta hubcaps?:




Maybe a mild custom kustom is the second half of the next version?

[Michigan Madman]

Well Chuck, with your skills, all you'd have to do to make a passable model is remove the rear quarter-panel outers and replace them with flatter sheet styrene, and sculpt-in the kicked-up character line at the top and the kink at the bottom with bondo.

I could, but then I'd want to rework the interior pieces where needed, and so on, and so on...
So maybe I'll just slam the '50, paint it suede green and call it good enough.