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Revell '50 Oldsmobile Club Coupe 2'n1


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#341 Jantrix

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 03:56 PM

Hmmm.................I picked one up today at the LHS. I'm a little concerned with the decal white walls, but other than that it looks super.

#342 Fat Brian

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 04:41 PM

Yeah, those are pretty sad compared to what AMT and Moebius are doing.

#343 Danno

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 07:51 PM

No idea, Lee. Just Google "red fishing line" and you'll have plenty of options.



It's in the party section right next to "red solo cup." ;)

#344 Borgis

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 11:09 PM

Just get some clear line and paint it. :)

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Yes I know the third air cleaner is on crooked but that's fixed now. :)

Edited by Borgis, 08 October 2012 - 11:10 PM.


#345 midnightprowler

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 11:49 PM

Hmmm.................I picked one up today at the LHS. I'm a little concerned with the decal white walls, but other than that it looks super.

That's one of the two beefs I have as well, especially since the box advertises tampo printed white walls. The decals can look good however, and it is easy. Brush Future on the sidewalls, apply the decals, then coat in clear flat. They look good if done coorectly. Tommy Logan, Roadhawg here on the forum, has done it with lettering, and they look nice. My other beef is the lask of underhood bracing.

#346 Chuck Most

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 12:17 AM

I can live with decalized whitewalls- I'd rather have that than a printed whitewall that isn't centered or smudged. If worst comes to worst I can always airbrush 'em with white acrylic. I am a little puzzled as to why they didn't print the whitewalls on this one, since the ones in the '48 Ford coupes are done pretty well. Maybe for the NASCAR version?

#347 38 Crush

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:03 AM

Because the tires are hollow you can break or crack that ww decal real easy, especially putting the wheel on or pushing down too hard on the model. Note Here be careful. I'm just going to airbrush mine :unsure:

#348 Gluhead

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 10:11 AM

Got any ideas as to how & duplicate the old transparent red fuel line tubing from back then, & the red spark transparent red spark plug wires also? Thanks for all of the ideas I know I'll get.

No need to buy fishing line...although no doubt that is another solution. We all have all the clear red fuel line we'd ever need right in our stashes. Just stretch some taillight sprue.

http://www.modelcars...=40#entry786331

Decal w/w's? Nothing to fuss about at all. No need to even get out the airbrush...just thin out some acr white and brush them out. Looks better than any of the other options anyway.

Bill, thanks for checking out the speed parts options. I didn't realize the '40 sedan had an Olds mill. Now I have to track those parts down. And you're right on the fastback insight, although no doubt we'll see several conversion projects and a resin body in no time at all. Will/way and all that. :D

So far, I couldn't be much more pleased with this kit. I'm making my first build a very mild custom to celebrate the quality of the kit as it comes. I'm betting my second one is a hardtop conversion.

Thank you, Revell. Kudos!

Edited by Gluhead, 09 October 2012 - 10:14 AM.


#349 thatz4u

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 07:31 AM

got mine today, lhs, $20.99 !!!!

#350 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:06 AM

I think the deal with the whitewalls is that there's some stretching and prodding required to get the tire over the wheel - nothing traumatic, but maybe a bit more than a tampo print would tolerate.

#351 MachinistMark

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:29 AM

Got mine...

#352 midnightprowler

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 12:09 PM

I think the deal with the whitewalls is that there's some stretching and prodding required to get the tire over the wheel - nothing traumatic, but maybe a bit more than a tampo print would tolerate.

Could be. If so, if you use the whitewalls according to the directions I mentioned, you would want to do all of it after mounting the tires to the wheels, as that same flexing would probably crack the Future, decals, and clear coat.

#353 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 12:18 PM

Yessir. Depending on their opacity and surface conformity, the decals might be a more desirable approach than masking and laying on white paint, even with the steps you described.

**edit** - Hey Harold, sorry about that - I just realized I was essentially repeating what you said...

Edited by Chuck Kourouklis, 10 October 2012 - 12:52 PM.


#354 38 Crush

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 12:57 PM

You know years ago I did a test using every flat white paint I could get my hands on and spraying whitewalls onto tires. Then I squizzed and twisted them to see if they would crack. The only paint that stood up that test was Tamiya XF2 flat white. Works for me everytime! :)

#355 Gluhead

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 08:42 PM

That's the one I use, Harold. It does the job very well.

Just for kicks I tried out one of the w/w decals. It snugged down okay with liberal use of MicroSet, but it's a hair too large. If you plan to use them, they'll need to be carefully trimmed down slightly with a #11 and a circle template.

#356 dodgefever

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 11:36 PM

I've noticed a couple of people painting the bellhousing on the Olds engine a silver/grey bare metal finish. The bellhousing was integral with the block casting, so it should be engine colour. This is a slightly later 324, but the same basic casting.

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#357 Fat Brian

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 05:50 AM

Good info, thank you.

#358 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:47 AM

Yup! I'll use it.

#359 midnightprowler

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 01:29 PM

Thanks Stu, good to know. None of my reference pics show that.

#360 charlie8575

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 12:02 PM

Thanks for that, Stu. I'll correct my painting tonight.

So far- the assembly ease of this kit is AMAZING. This thing is almost falling together! I've never built a Tamiya kit- have a couple to get to, but I can see what all the Tamiya builders rave about. This is one of the easiest-to-assemble kits I've ever built.

Charlie Larkin