69 Camaro ProMod (no kit parts will be injured in this build) 5/22/12
#141
Posted 21 May 2012 - 08:42 AM
#142
Posted 21 May 2012 - 03:01 PM
#143
Posted 21 May 2012 - 03:16 PM
Thats a great Idea!!! Thanks Del ....Thats what modelling is all about.... a sharing of knowlage.Rom, just a thought for you, but waaaaay back when I used to do a lot of 'glas fabricating, we used to fill an area with expanding foam & when we were done you would use acetone to remove the foam & you had a finished part. You could use the same method to fill your block & heads for making a master, & when done just drop them in a container of acetone, foam removed, clean parts, & best of all no epoxy residue to try & pick out. Just an ideal
#144
Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:00 PM
#145
Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:57 PM



Thanks for viewing see ya soon....
Edited by Romell R, 22 May 2012 - 03:11 PM.
#146
Posted 21 May 2012 - 06:49 PM
#147
Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:01 AM
#148
Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:01 AM
they wont be yellow for long Bro I'll be painting this up soon. And hopefully spare youre eyes LOL!I would have done the same thing Rom. As you know, I love a good dio and nothing makes a model stand out better than an appropriate background. The yellow walls are a bit surprising though.
#149
Posted 22 May 2012 - 06:47 AM
#150
Posted 22 May 2012 - 02:54 PM
#151
Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:07 PM


mounted on the head



Thats all folks! Cya again real soon......
Edited by Romell R, 22 May 2012 - 03:08 PM.
#152
Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:13 PM
#153
Posted 22 May 2012 - 06:58 PM
#154
Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:42 PM
Thanks Dave, a lil here, a lil there....well you know how it works LOL! I will do just that, keep at it.lookin' awesome there romell. keep at it!!!
#155
Posted 23 May 2012 - 02:02 AM
#156
Posted 23 May 2012 - 09:06 AM
#157
Posted 23 May 2012 - 09:39 AM
Thats a great Idea!!!
You probably will not want to have cured, expanding foam meeting liquid mold rubber. The rubber will seep into the foam's pores and at the very least, your molds will be heavily damaged when you attempt to remove the parts. Think about the foam and rubber meeting (and bonding) in every depression, cylinder bore, water jacket, etc.
Do you plan to make the second engine out of brass, too? I don't envy all the sanding and polishing you'll need to do to make the parts smooth enough to cast, especially in between and around the runners on the tunnel ram. You might also consider making the tunnel ram as two pieces instead of one so it's easier to cast.
Is there a specific reason you used tubing instead of rod stock to make the crank journals?
#158
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:23 AM
.Thanks for the insight on the casting , I will take it all into consideration. Im no longer making a second motor. And the sanding and polishing is the easy part when you have the right tools. The reason I used tube instead of rod is because tube heats faster than solid rod does therefore I can solder a part on faster and not have to worry about over heating or heat spread and other parts comming apart.You probably will not want to have cured, expanding foam meeting liquid mold rubber. The rubber will seep into the foam's pores and at the very least, your molds will be heavily damaged when you attempt to remove the parts. Think about the foam and rubber meeting (and bonding) in every depression, cylinder bore, water jacket, etc.
Do you plan to make the second engine out of brass, too? I don't envy all the sanding and polishing you'll need to do to make the parts smooth enough to cast, especially in between and around the runners on the tunnel ram. You might also consider making the tunnel ram as two pieces instead of one so it's easier to cast.
Is there a specific reason you used tubing instead of rod stock to make the crank journals?
#159
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:29 AM
Edited by comp1839, 23 May 2012 - 11:44 AM.
#160
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:48 AM












