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Dry sump oil tank: My very first machined part


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#1 ismaelg

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 09:44 AM

Hello,

I had no previous experience whatsoever on machining, but it didn't take long to figure out the basics on how this works.
I made my very first machined part" The oil tank for the 2006 Z06 dry sump system. It's a simple part but a giant leap for me :D

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Here you can see I made 2 just in case, one slightly longer than the other. I already removed the molded battery.
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What do you think?


Thanks,

#2 paulcolt

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 09:49 AM

looking good. keep it up.

#3 GTmike400

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 11:42 AM

Looks pretty good. When did you get a lathe? Oh, dont bother using the center in the tail stock for most pieces. I cant say that I have ever needed to use it.

You should be well on your way now.

#4 Billy Kingsley

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 01:17 PM

Very nice Ismael! First time I ever used a lathe, I kept going until there was nothing left! (Was when I was in 9th grade, though!)

#5 MrObsessive

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 01:30 PM

Looks great Ismael!

Where do you get the aluminum stock BTW? That will probably be the first piece I try to make..................something that won't get lost in the carpet! :lol:

Hey Ismael..............do you have any 1:1 pics of the C6's rear hatch hinges? Not the struts that hold up the hatch, but the hinges in the roof itself. If so, could you post 'em here? Thanks in advance!:D


#6 ismaelg

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:54 AM

Bill,

I found a 3/8" aluminum rod in a local hardware store. There is an aluminum distributor I want to check next week. I want bigger stock for wheel spacers and such.

As for the hinges, does this pic help? I know I have more somewhere but I can't find them. I'm looking for them...

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Thanks,

#7 MrObsessive

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 02:41 AM

Yes that helps a lot! I was wondering if that was a "gooseneck" hinge or a straight hinge...............looks like gooseneck hinges because of their radii to be able to swing upwards.

I'll have to get my lathe in gear and check out my local hardware store up the road for some aluminum stock.:D

Thanks for the pic!


#8 GTmike400

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 03:48 AM

Bill, Ismael,

You may want to check out www.onlinemetals.com as they have all sorts of metals and some plastics. I order all of my material for them. There is no minimum purchase, they have a wide variety of material, and they do can cut custom lengths.

Shipping runs about $10 from the beginning, so add as much as you can to balance out the shipping.

I've also found that the hardware material is more impure than the stuff from online metals. Especially the brass. The best aluminum to get good results is 6061 T651 heat treated. The aluminum is very dense, and polishes up to a mirror finish. It turns really nicely too. Also, when shoping for brass look for 360 H02. This machines beautifully and machines a fine powder instead of big chips. Online Metals carry both of the aboved grades of aluminum and brass.

Ismael, if you have an aluminum supplier try to get 6061 T6. Other aluminums, 2024, 3003, 5052, dont produce nice finishes. Also, anything less than a T6 heat treat wont have a nice finish. I've never tried 7075 on my lathe yet, so I dont know about it. Though, any good aluminum supplier should carry 6061 T6 as its one of the most common kinds of aluminum.

#9 MrObsessive

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 03:58 AM

GREAT info Mike!!
Thanks!


#10 Jairus

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 05:23 AM

Ismael,
Beautiful work there!
Congratulations on the lathe, it will change the way you look at modeling I think.... :wink:

#11 LOBBS

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 12:24 PM

Great job Izzy, I'm currently working on this kit too. I was wondering if anyone has a good pick from the top down showing the shape of the compartment that is left when the battery is removed. All the pics I've been able to find have the tank in place and it's difficult to guage how deep to make the new compartment. I've got the battery shaved out and I'm using a similar looking tank from the C5R kit for my project.

#12 ismaelg

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 04:42 PM

Kyle,

I don't have any pics looking straight down, but maybe these pics can help. Some of these pics are from a mag article. The tank itself is quite large, and it actually attaches to the frame itself.

By the way, that is Dan Hommes, design engineer responsible for the dry sump system.
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You can see it attaches into the lower frame itself.

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The tank is quite big.


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as been attached to the frame..


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Here you can see it located in the car, but it will be eventually covered by the inner fender liner.

And this is how it looks on the car...

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Hope this helps.
What? Me? No, I don't think I'm obseesed with this car. Why? :)

Thanks,

#13 LOBBS

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 05:23 PM

Those pics are great Izzy, just what I needed to get this project movin

#14 ismaelg

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 06:14 PM

Glad they help!
One final thought: I believe that if we make the tank full lenght, with the space limitations, and the design of the kit, it may interfere with the tire. That's why I did a shorter tank.
Just a thought.

Thanks,

#15 LOBBS

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 07:32 PM

After seeing the pics you've posted I decided I'd probably be better served starting from scratch on the tank. I've got a post over on digitalcorvettes.com looking for dimensions. Planning on building it to those specs and shortening it til it fits right.