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Putty that can be shaped, then machined?


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#1 Bowtienutz

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:46 AM

I need to make some custom headlight buckets for lack of a better term. It's for a a 66 Tbird. I need to be able to shape to fit inside the original bucket. I'll need to be able to remove it from the original headlight opening after it is shaped do some machine work and it will then be a master for vacum formed cover. Any ideas?

#2 Jantrix

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 11:08 AM

Try some Super Sculpey?

#3 shucky

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 11:32 AM

I'm not sure about removing if afterwards, but look into Aves apoxie sculpt line.

#4 slotbaker

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 12:55 PM

How about an air drying modeling clay?
That's just one... there are others that may suit as well.

#5 CadillacPat

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 01:12 PM

I think I mentioned these in another thread,

Milliput White, Apoxie Sculpt, QuikSteel

CadillacPat

#6 southpier

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 01:44 PM

JB Weld Kwik

#7 Chief Joseph

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 01:57 PM

An epoxy putty like the ones Pat mentioned will do the job. Aves Apoxie Sculpt is my personal favorite. To remove the piece you make from your model is easy; first brush some vaseline onto the model where you will be applying the putty and then after you've made your part and it has hardened, just pop it off.

#8 ARTEMIS1759

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 07:07 PM

My dad uses JB weld to fix 1:1 farm implement for various reasons and machines it as needed so it should work for your purpose.

#9 LDO

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 11:13 AM

Milliput Superfine White. You can shape it with wet fingers/tools. It will cure in about 24 hours. Sands like a dream, but I haven't tried machining it. If you're going to attach it to plastic and then remove it, lay down some Bare Metal Foil. That will allow it to stick while curing, but pop it right off when you're ready.

#10 Deathgoblin

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 04:17 AM

the white Milliput is a little crumbly for that. I ususally use a mix of the white milliput and games workshop's "green stuff". The green stuff is more flexible and sticks better but it's too soft on its own, the white hardens better but it's crumbly and doesn't stick well.

#11 Bowtienutz

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 10:08 AM

Thanks for the input I'll hunt round and give it a shot.

#12 Draggon

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 10:07 AM

Stay away from Sculpey. I shrinks to heck, and if you apply it to styrene, it melts it. I have a project I used sculpey on. Its been over a year now, and the styrene it was in contact with is still smooshy.

#13 Sixx

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 01:43 PM

An epoxy putty like the ones Pat mentioned will do the job. Aves Apoxie Sculpt is my personal favorite. To remove the piece you make from your model is easy; first brush some vaseline onto the model where you will be applying the putty and then after you've made your part and it has hardened, just pop it off.

Use what the Chief says...he's right about the Aves Apoxie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Figure modelers use it all the time. I've been using it on my zombies!!!

#14 IHSS

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:32 PM

I've only used their paints, which are awsome and do what htey claim. But P.O.R.15 used to make a 2 part putty the they claimed could be drilled and tapped, but I've never used it so I can't say what it's like.