27 replies to this topic

[Tom Geiger]

I like this project a whole lot.  The building would also make a decent old time garage with some Model Ts hanging around.

 

I agree with the dimensions etc posted here.  I'd start with a scale sketch of the front, based on the size assumptions posted. It would be helpful to have a 1/25 scale ruler so you don't have to convert dimensions.  Once you have established a proportion scale from the doors, it will help you determine the rise of the roof (the front peak) and the size of the upstairs windows. From the two photos it appears that all the windows (except for the side basement one) are the same size. So once you know that size, you can plot out the length of the side from that window placement.  Also, note that in the front photo you can see straight through the second floor and there is a window on the back. So I'd assume the same window pattern on the other side, and the upstairs of the back. There would be no back or side door from the first floor due to the slope.  But somewhere there would be an entry to the basement. 

 

If I still had access to AutoCad, I'd do a quick sketch in scale for you, just out of my own curiosity. Good luck with this project, we'll all be watching!

[Danno]

In that era, the "basement" would probably have a rear staircase entry from outside, with hinged wood cover. 

 

I agree it appears that both side walls will be the same, with same window placement, and the front and rear walls of the upper story will be the same, with same window placement.  Houses and buildings tended to be very symmetrical in that era.

 

Great project!

[Danno]

One other thought, regarding scaling the building:

 

In those days, construction materials were more regional or "local" than today, usually coming from a small, local manufacturer.  Even if the building you're modeling no longer exists, you would likely find other old buildings from the same era in the area.  If you still have those contacts back home, ask somebody to look around for some of those concrete blocks and get measurements.  Then, you can accurately scale the entire building. 

 

[gasser59]

I still say the entry door is round 6'6" based on the height of the doorknob. If the door is 9', the knob would be appr. 4' from the ground.

 

Still loving this project. It has alot of potential.

Edited by gasser59, 29 January 2013 - 04:54 PM.

[hooknladderno1]

For some ideas about creating patterns, I've found this fellow in England who has some tutorials on-line. I haven't tried any yet but - as he's a teacher - his explanations are easy-to-follow.

 

http://davidneat.wordpress.com/

Hey Ken,

Thanks!  David Neat has some great tutorials!  I spent over an hour trying to locate someone here in the US that carries the Kapa Line board.  It has a polyurethane  as opposed to most of the other foam board that is polystyrene.  I highly reccommend a peek at his tutorials!  I even emailed the manufacturer - 3A Composites to see if they could connect me with a supplier.  Still waiting for a reply...

[GTMust]

 

I still say the entry door is round 6'6" based on the height of the doorknob. If the door is 9', the knob would be appr. 4' from the ground.
 

I wonder if we'll ever know for sure... but it makes for an interesting discussion!

Tony
 

[hooknladderno1]

Okay Guys,

Finally getting started on this project! Decided on O gauge(1/48).  Purchased some of the window/door components online - have to wait for those to arrive.  Bought both Magic Brik and JTT dressed stone patterned plastic sheet for the stonework.  Still have to mock up the walls with cardboard, which won't happen til the weekend with work.  Any suggestions on what to use for the permanent walls?  I don't have access to a table saw at the moment.  The Magic Brik involves a water based brick motar compound.  Warping is a concern...  Any ideas would be appreciated!  Thanks.

 

 

David

Edited by hooknladderno1, Yesterday, 05:37 PM.

[Mercman]

How about 1/8 in Masonite. Just seal it witha good coat of paint, and then apply your Magic Brik.