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29 Ford: Chopped, channeled & Z'd


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#1 geetee66

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 01:02 PM

I thought I was going to build this straight out of the box. When I got all the parts out on my bench, I decided to try a few new things.
I've just done my first chop, so it seemed only natural that I should take the saw to this build and go a bit further.
First up was tweaking the chassis:
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Then the roof got it's cut-line:

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Wheels and caps are from the AMT 32 Phaeton kit, with M&H piecrust whitewall slicks from the AMT tyre set and Firestone fronts with hand painted whitewalls.
When I was prepping the tyres, I discovered that a soft brass brush in a motor tool takes out the shine from the recess in the tread pattern. It also scuffs the sidewalls nicely. Makes them look used.

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Some brass photoetch for the grille:

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The chrome surround will lose a bit of shine by the time I'm done.

After some test fitting, I've now shortened the rear end a bit and moved the front axle forward, in front of the radiator:

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I've had a go at the salt technique for the paint weathering. I don't know why I didn't try it before. It works well.
I'll shoehorn a V-8 in to the space usually occupied by the 4-banger. I've got a Mercury flathead with some nicely engraved Offenhauser bits.
More pics soon. I'll take a few quick shots of the body once I've chipped all the salt off.

Edited by geetee66, 08 May 2012 - 01:07 PM.


#2 Jantrix

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 01:17 PM

Don't forget you lengthened the chassis when you added the Z. So should have problem adding the flattie.

#3 Brendan30

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 01:20 PM

Looking good Guy! What guide do use for the Z in your frame? It took me forever to Z the 32 I need to find a quick easy way to get it done!

#4 geetee66

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:51 AM

Thanks chaps.
Rob, you're right. A bit of extra length in the chassis does help with the fit of the V8.
In reply to your question Brendan, I bought a small adjustable square and set the angle by eye. This is a valuable tool to have when messing with the frame. It's easy to then copy the angles on all 4 cuts. I assembled the sections on a true surface with CA and some kicker.
If I was going to build a more trad rod, I'd box the frame to hide the joins, but as this is intended to be rough and ready, I'm happy with the way it looks...!
Here are sme mock-up pics showing the weathered paint:

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I couldn't figure out how to make the headers fit, until I saw a 1:1 car with a set-up like this:

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I've got to make new water pipes, as the radiator is going to be much lower.

Hoping to get more done this weekend.
cheers

#5 Dweb7321

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:58 AM

I'm lovin' it

#6 Ira

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 10:46 AM

Great Start!

#7 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 10:49 AM

Loving it. Nice weathering on it so far.

#8 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 12:07 PM

Very cool. Did you just eyeball the extra length on the frame as well, or did you measure out ahead of time how much length you would be adding? The last Z I did, I ended up adding length to the front seperate from the Z.

#9 JMD904

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 12:33 PM

I love it! Like how ya Z'd the frame.

#10 geetee66

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 01:18 PM

Very cool. Did you just eyeball the extra length on the frame as well, or did you measure out ahead of time how much length you would be adding? The last Z I did, I ended up adding length to the front seperate from the Z.

Thanks for the encouragement.
I did everything by eye. The markings are so feint on my steel rule, i gave up measuring and just went for it!
The adjustment of the rear length was to compensate for the pieces I added. After I had glued it together, I realized I could've made things easier by cutting length from the frame before I added the Z pieces. I ended up cutting the rear crossmember off and shortened the rails that way. My previous joins were too strong to prise apart by then.

#11 Brendan30

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 02:07 PM

Guy, I did pretty much the same thing I angled the frame into 3 pieces, except I did not extend the front with the "Z" I was able to actually fit the front frame members (after some filing) into the hollow portion of rectangular styrene that I then glued to the adjoining frame.

everything looks great, are you just using straight salt or a mixture, I am using a mix of kosher table and baking soda. the fine grain in the baking soda helps give that textured look and adheres quite well.

#12 diggersrule

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 02:07 PM

very nice work,

#13 Tom Setzer

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 07:56 AM

Great Work on the 29, keep it going!

#14 vwrabbit

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:10 PM

Nice work! I love this Revell kit! Want to pick up a few more of these!

Tim

#15 Kustom Rodder

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:55 AM

Lookin real good so far.

#16 bryan_m

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 03:10 AM

very cool, this is one of my fave kits.... there is so much you can do with 32 ford pickups/coupes..ect ect. keep it going, the weathering is looking great, nice work on "z" ing the frame as well.

all the 32`s i have built, and i have never z`d a frame yet, gonna have to try it on the next one.

cheers!
bryan

#17 Slotcar12

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 02:53 PM

We need an update!!! More photos. Paul

#18 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:47 AM

Looking good Guy! What guide do use for the Z in your frame? It took me forever to Z the 32 I need to find a quick easy way to get it done!

Try this.

 

http://www.modelcars...728#entry877770



#19 crazyrichard

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 11:19 PM

awsome !!!!! looks so good

 

to be dead hounest i dont like the green but the cab weathering and colors are just stunning , the wheels would look so cool in the blue of the cab and then with some added filth :P