71 replies to this topic

[monkeyclaw]

I really like the Spies - hecker automotive urethanes; they are just awesome to spray....they work well with nason intercote clear (clear basecoat) and final clears................Matt

[gtx6970]

For me it comes down to the color I need. 75% of the time it's duplicolor  for sprays. For most everything else it comes down to what I can get easily. as I prefer not to have to mail order paint / supplies unless I absolutly can't find something local (that hasn't happend yet )

For brush paint is whats readily avail locally 99% of the time , and thats Testors  . Haven't tried any other brands

[JamesW]

Tamiya. I haven't used it much, but when I do it lays down smooth.

 

My most used are Testors Lacquers, Duplicolor and Pactra.

[scalenut]

Mr. Color solvent-based acrylic

if I could afford  to import a large batch

[zenrat]

If I had to choose just one? Zero paints

http://www.zero-paints.com

Edited by zenrat, 18 April 2013 - 01:05 AM.

[BKcustoms]

I've been using DuPont base coats with Nason urethane clear for a while now and I recently started using Kustom Shop paint for airbrushing graphics.

[wgflatliner]

80% tamiya, 10% model master lacquers, and 10% enamels either by airbrush or rattle can.

 

If anybody has issues with Tamiya laying down smooth, they're probably not doing something right.  you can get it to go down REALLY smooth if the can is heated up properly.  I use a chocolate melting device, but instead have water in it.  once the can is the right temps, then shake really well and it goes down even smoother than what you'd expect from a rattle can.  I can say this to be true for any rattle can.

 

For enamels, i make sure i have my food dehydrator available to help cure the paint.  I either thin it down 1 part paint to 1 part thinner, and it airbrushes on great.  If i'm using rattle can, i heat it up and it lays down smooth.

 

then i start wondering how i'm going to transfer the model from my paint stand to the dehydrator without touching the model.  haha

[MikeyB08]

Exterior Paint- I ALWAYS use Rust-Oleum w/ Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Coat. Almost perfect finish every time with minimal polishing for the deep mirror finish.

 

Interior Paint- Testors as of right now. Given, I have heard that Tamiya is AWESOME to Brush on painting.

 

Here is a picture of Rust-Oleum Gloss Black Double Coverage. Flat Black base, 3 cover coats. No polishing, no clear coat, just Gloss Black.

 

 

[kendog261]

I've tried many paints especially non specific paints to try and save some money. Dupli-color is good but in Wa. state the weather has to be good or it hazes over to easy. Tried Rust-Oleum  and Krylon. I personally have given up on the this practice and use Tamiya and Model Masters only.

[Tonioseven]

I use whatever I can find that fits my needs. Nail polish, Scalefinishes, House of Kolor, Tamiya (mostly for interiors), Testors Model Masters lacquers, Duplicolor and PlastiKote. If I can thin it with lacquer thinner, I'll probably try to use it.

Edited by Tonioseven, 18 April 2013 - 06:02 PM.

[rustbucket82]

I use whatever I can find that fits my needs. Nail polish, Scalefinishes, House of Kolor, Tamiya (mostly for interiors), Testors Model Masters lacquers, Duplicolor and PlastiKote. If I can thin it with lacquer thinner, I'll probably try to use it.

I'll add mine to that list. Vallejo model air, Vallejo model color (interiors and detail painting, doesn't leave brush strokes)

[kitbash1]

I like using Tamiya paint's, both rattle cans and bottled. I'm also starting to use Floquil paint's as well for weathering and some detail work. But after getting Donn Yost's painting CD's, I'm starting to get back into Testors enamels.

Edited by kitbash1, 19 April 2013 - 06:45 AM.