213 replies to this topic

[hacked]

started narrowing the rear, removed crossmembers and gave the stock gearbox the flick

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[Ryan S.]

If this stays open ended, I might jump in. I picked up a 39 Chevy at a flea market this weekend and I'm thinking of putting the I-6 Stovebolt under the hood. Still not positive, but I figured it would be different.

[Casey]

Off we go...

I've got the still-separate engine and transmission sections assembled, which will be used to make new engine mounts on the cleaned up and modified frame rails and crossmember/K-frame. The slots on the topside of the frame rails looked horrible (not to mention completely inaccurate), so the upper control arms were removed, and the slots filled with various pieces of styrene. The frame rail sections will be evened out as they have some funky tapers due to the way they were molded.







The goal is a simple, base Dart, possibly with some GT options/features, in a subtle (read: non-HIP) color, similar to this one:

[Michigan Madman]

I think I'm slowly homing in on a project for this... Revell's '48 Ford coupe with one of Ken Kitchen's Flathead sixes.

We'll see how it pans out!

[Trucker_tim]

I will jump in with a dodge demon 1972 with a straight six all I need to do is get the resin body. I already have the duster donor kit. I had one of these cars as a kid it's on my list of want to do's. Don't know how quick I will get it done but happy to join in.

(null)

[gray07]

So this build has started now

[Olskoolrodder]

Mine got postponed-moving this month. Count me in on a Hudson sometime in the fairly-near future though

[Dr. Cranky]

Oh you Michigan Madman, this one's got me salivatin' real bad!

[Michigan Madman]

This will be the recipient of the Flathead six... you can tell it's humid outside when you can see it in the pictures!

[Michigan Madman]

Going with a quasi-stock appearance at both ends- the stock '48 grille and headlamp bezels are still included (I still may or may not add the stock parking lamps), and while no stock taillamps are provided (and I had no spares), the kit does provide some vertical units which somewhat resemble the stock ones turned 90 degrees. Sort of. The stock bumpers would not quite fit the body, so I used the smooth ones instead.
I'll be using neither of the kit hoods. Revell pitches this kit as a custom, but I'm going for more of a hot rod vibe.

[Casey]

I attached the firewall and radiator support to the body shell, leaving the tiny bit of glue squeeze out between the firewall and inner fenders to be passed off as scale seam sealer. I sanded off the high points on the inner fenders, too, as they are way too sharp and crisp looking out of the box, looking nothing like mass-produced, stamped pieces:






I still have to remove that block-like protrusion, which is supposed to be the battery tray. Granted, most of it is hidden when the battery is installed, but it's one of the weak points in the engine compartment, so out it will come:




I cleaned up the front frame rails, removing the bulges around the K-member mounting holes and filling in the holes, adding strips of very thin styrene to cap the top of the rails and provide a cleaner edge when I apply putty to fill in some sink marks and casting other small flaws. They needn't be perfectly flat and smooth, but they need improvement:




I also did some minor work on the K-member, removing the locating pins and making it look more like a Slant Six K-member, which required removing some of the extra big block bracing. I will make up some engine mounts and attach them to the K-member using the assembled engine as a locating guide.

[Casey]

A heads up that sunglasses would be necessary would be appreciated, Chuck. The interior looks very nice..and bright.

[Michigan Madman]

Care to take a guess which specific green that is, Casey?

[Casey]

Looks too close to neon for me to guess Testors Limelight or Big Bad Green (if they make that), so I will guess Krylon Safety Green?

I DO know it got my attention.

[Michigan Madman]

Good old Model Master Sublime Green, actually. And for the white I just masked off the white plastic.

[Dr. Cranky]

Looking good, Chuck.

[Casey]

I guess it just looks brighter over white plastic than I thought.

I applied some filler on the front framerails, sanded and primed them, and they're getting closer to good:





Looks like I need to pick up a '68 Dart kit for the interior bases...should've thought of that earlier.

[Johan020]

Mmmm i checkt the pile of kits but all the 20 + kit a own the are al V8 and a 4 boxer from the manx meyer

Its a great reason to get to the hobbyshop and check ebay for some good old six cylinder cars

[Olskoolrodder]

This will be the recipient of the Flathead six... you can tell it's humid outside when you can see it in the pictures!

OH-HO-HO that's gunna be awesome!!!!!!

[Casey]

Today I cut apart the two '68 Dart interior bases so I could use everything from the rear seat back on the stock piece, while using the opposite (front) half of the Hemi Dart interior piece. The stock interior piece has the console already in place, which is the same problem I had with the '69 GTS piece, while the Hemi piece has no console, and only a small, very subtle flat spot for the floor shifter- much easier the work with than removing the entire console and filling the opening, retexturing the floor in that area, and so on:




I've decided to use the '68's seats and door panels, which are slightly less fancy than the '69 GTS pieces. I'm not going to be too concerned with what was correct for a '69 Dart (GT, maybe) on this build, so the '68 interior will work fine and require much less work on my part, increasing the odds of this build reaching completion by a good percentage.

I also decided to use the Hemi Dart hood, and fill in the scoop opening, an drill out and plug the hood pin depressions:




I probably will create some type of underhood structure since as the underside is smooth now and lacks any detail. I'd like to have the hinges hold the hood open when it's completed, so the underside of the hood will be highly visible and should at least look passable.

Hopefully I can get the floor sections welded together tonight, then get the piece glued to the chassis and start patching and sanding on the trans tunnel.