147 replies to this topic

[oldscool]

You are doing something really good here. You are building the model the way the real cars were built back then - by scrounging parts from many different sources. I love the overall look of this model so far.

Edited by oldscool, 01 July 2012 - 06:18 AM.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Thanks for the comments, gentlemen. This is something I'd build 1:1, exactly as it is, if I had the time and money. I have a 394 Olds, a 3X2 Offy manifold, and a pair of American Stamping '32 repop rails, but whether I'll ever be able to build the big one is anybody's guess. As with all of my model builds, I try to get most of the technical details right enough so you could actually build a 1:1 version, using the model as reference.

Thanks again for your interest and kind words.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Got enough of the bodywork squared away to start with the primer......



Still have some issues with the resin firewall that need to be addressed....



Had to make the roll at the bottom of the hood side where I'd cut the exhaust opening in the wrong place. Styrene half-round rod. Will primer today.



Also finishing up the extensions to the grille shell, to kick the bottom forward a bit. I'd originally put the extensions on the hood sides, but the resultant angle made it impossible to easily remove the hood. Duh.

[1930fordpickup]

Still looking good !

[Ace-Garageguy]

Getting there........letting the primer shrink in while I work on other parts of the build.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 08 July 2012 - 05:00 AM.

[my80malibu]

looks good. Where are the Door hinges?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Where are the Door hinges?

Ummm......Gone? It wasn't uncommon at all to put hidden door hinges on these things. Not real common, but doable and a well known mod back in the dim recesses of time. The car's going to be gloss black lacquer, and I just didn't want to fiddle with sanding and polishing around hinges....so, they're "hidden".

[Tom Setzer]

That is one Great Transformation!

[Ira]

LOOKS GREAT!!!

The windshield is Perfect for the car...

[Ace-Garageguy]

Thanks guys. I love rebuilding junk, as you can probably tell. Glad you like the results.

[deathskull59]

looks good in primer.

[southpier]

'zat primer shrunk in yet?

[cobraman]

That is looking very good. Nice work.

[vintagedragfan]

good stuff William! very clean work

[doggie427]

Fabulous work. Love how the rear wheel is set in the wheelwell so the full body character line is visible in a sideview.
Have you considered filing the bottom edge of the hood louvers at an angle to match the bottom of the hood side? I realize this might be visually distracting with the drag link running down the side of the hood and the split wishbone angle.It's nice to keep these lines all fairly parallel. Just a thought.
Your work is outstanding,keep the eye-candy coming!

Edited by doggie427, 21 August 2012 - 03:25 PM.

[route66modeler]

nice work!

[pharr7226]

Beautiful work. I'm looking forward to your next update.

[Del Austin]

Lovin' this build..er..re-build. You nailed the traditional Hot Rod look!

[Ace-Garageguy]

Again, thanks to everyone for the interest, comments and kind words.

Well then....decided to go back into it and do the quick-change rear end, and a rolled-rear-pan to go with it....all very period, high-end hot rod. The rear of the AMT body shell isn't exactly accurate, so I cut it off where the real '32 shell ends, and removed some material from my basis for the pan....



With it stuck to the car, I'm trying another new experimental technique. Using closed-cell urethane foam blocks glued in place to shape the rounded corners.....



Getting there. Will probably saturate the foam with epoxy before finish-shaping and bondo. I also noticed a fit-and-square issue with the decklid, so that's getting corrected.



And on the the QC. This is all the stuff to do the quick-change swap....Existing '32 frame with a '40 rear end and spring on right, '28-'31 model A frame in the center, with an AMT '32 Vicky or Phaeton rear end, top; the QC and some widened axle-bells from the AMT Fiat double-dragster kit; and a model T rear spring from a vintage Revell roadster parts-pack.



Last shot shows the way the model A rear crossmember will clear the QC, but obviously the one I fabbed to use the '40 diff won't. Stay tuned...........

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 25 August 2012 - 08:38 AM.

[Tom Setzer]

Norm Weber at Replicas and Minitures co. of Maryland makes a great 32 ford chass that you can fit an A Model suspension to with a transveres rear spring. First thing you should do when building it is to fit the floor board, as the chassis is easy to warp if you don't
I have used 6 of these chassis, and the quality and accurace are both the best there is!