Jump to content


'32 Ford roadster gluebomb rework. Oct 13, minor adjustment


  • You cannot reply to this topic
182 replies to this topic

#61 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 22 August 2012 - 02:47 PM

Tom, I appreciate the info. I've heard a lot of good things about Norm's parts, and I'll certainly give that frame a try sometime. In the meantime, I have a lot of old AMT '32 frames, and a lot of Model A frames and crossmembers, so I'll keep on building them like I do the real ones. I can get exactly the stance I want every time. Definitely more work, but it makes every one that much different too.

#62 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 22 August 2012 - 03:02 PM

Got a little more done...

This is the wishbone from the AMT rear end separated from the axle. It's necessary to use the '32 wishbone to fit between the frame rails. (If the wishbones are 'split', longer ones can be used, but that's not the look I'm going for on this car.) Again, this is very similar to building a 1:1. I've also sprayed some primer on the Halibrand center section after removing a little mold flash. The original driveshaft didn't have the correct taper on the forward end, so I've removed it and turned a new one from styrene, and made up a bolt-flange to attach it to the center section.

Posted Image

I also used to old Dremel 'lathe' to turn a cup for the forward universal on the driveshaft. After the unit is back in the chassis, I'll determine the right length to mate with the trans.

Posted Image

#63 Tom Setzer

Tom Setzer

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 538 posts
  • Location:Jacksonville Fla
  • Full Name:Thomas J.C. Setzer

Posted 22 August 2012 - 04:56 PM

Hal You Build real Hot Rods? I grew up building AV8s and Dueces at Curtis Speed and Hot Rod shop, we would often use a rear cross member/spring perch from an old A model frame that wasn't worth using for any thing else on our Deuce frames. Then Clyde started manufacturing His own Frames and Crossmembers to sell to other people.
l

#64 Gluhead

Gluhead

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,159 posts
  • Location:Michigan
  • Full Name:It really is Gluhead

Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:47 PM

Not sure how I missed this one, but I think this is the best use of that old ill-proportioned body I've ever seen. You've brought everything together to make it work for you rather than against you. Very cool! I'll definitely be watching this one.

And that GeeBee, holy ###### now that I know it's mislabeled I have got to get one. Nothing better than a prop plane and a real hot rod sitting together.

#65 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 23 August 2012 - 01:02 AM

......... we would often use a rear cross member/spring perch from an old A model frame that wasn't worth using for any thing else on our Deuce frames.......


Exactly. Stay tuned for the next installment..........

#66 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 24 August 2012 - 01:37 PM

So, here's the Model A rear crossmember cut out of the model A chassis, just like real.....The marks are where it will be trimmed to fit between the '32 rails.

Posted Image

The reason the rear suspension complete with spring had to be built-up first is that it's ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL to know that the axle centerline and the ride height are the same as on the mockup when you glue in the crossmember, if you want to maintain the exact stance. I do, as it's a large part of the character of the car. I've seen well-respected pros get this wrong on 1:1 cars, and it looks really stupid if you blow it.

Posted Image

Because the Halibrand quick-change is a different shape than the '37 or '40 rear that came out, I had to make up new rear floors and a tunnel extension to clear everything. All that's left now of the original AMT frame is the rails.

Posted Image

Here's the assembled unit happily installed in the car, with everything fitting right.

Posted Image

#67 Foxer

Foxer

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,936 posts
  • Location:The Berkshires, Massachusetts
  • Full Name:Mike DeRagon

Posted 24 August 2012 - 02:17 PM

You're doing a well a job documenting this build as you are on the plastic! I'm enjoying every word and every drop of weld .. umm ... glue. :)

#68 James2

James2

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,421 posts
  • Location:Portage Co. Ohio
  • Full Name:JamesRiesII

Posted 24 August 2012 - 02:22 PM

​Well done thus far!

#69 Gluhead

Gluhead

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,159 posts
  • Location:Michigan
  • Full Name:It really is Gluhead

Posted 24 August 2012 - 03:19 PM

All the right moves...

I'm really curious to see how those foam corners work out.

#70 1930fordpickup

1930fordpickup

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,026 posts
  • Location:Michigan/Ohio border
  • Full Name:Andy Lemble

Posted 24 August 2012 - 03:49 PM

Looks great !

#71 gpugh1976

gpugh1976

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,610 posts
  • Location:Sacramento, CA
  • Full Name:Greg Pugh

Posted 25 August 2012 - 03:51 AM

Wow!

#72 Road Runner 79

Road Runner 79

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,652 posts
  • Location:Wood River Il.
  • Full Name:Pat Minarick

Posted 25 August 2012 - 06:36 AM

Getting there........letting the primer shrink in while I work on other parts of the build.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

It looks perfect just like this!

#73 Dennis Lacy

Dennis Lacy

    MCM Avid Poster

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 354 posts
  • Location:La Verne, California
  • Full Name:Dennis Lacy

Posted 25 August 2012 - 08:16 AM

Excellent work putting together the quick change rear and other necessary mods. All the mixing and matching feels like doing the real thing, doesn't it....

I went back and found mention of where the rear spring came from so I could make a mental note because it is actually a Model T spring and the nicest one in scale I've ever seen!

#74 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 25 August 2012 - 08:36 AM

.... it is actually a Model T spring and the nicest one in scale I've ever seen!


Yup, my bad in calling it an 'A'. I specifically used the 'T' to avoid having to do even more mods necessary to use the excellent 'A' spring from the old Revell 1/25 '31 Woody kit (in order to get the rear end width I was after with the juice-brake backing plates). Good sharp eye, and thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will change the incorrect post so anyone reading it will get the right info.

Using the 'A' spring would have allowed putting the crossmember in a little higher between the rails, which I would have prefered, and the spring is a little stiffer, being (I THINK) 1/4 inch wider in 1:1, but there were other interference problems shaping up. I think the 'T' spring will give me just a hair more room to route the muffled part of the exhaust system.

I'll also finish up more correct-looking rear-axle spring hangers than the stuck-in tubes, but I'll leave them a little wrong for strength's sake.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 25 August 2012 - 08:51 AM.


#75 Dennis Lacy

Dennis Lacy

    MCM Avid Poster

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 354 posts
  • Location:La Verne, California
  • Full Name:Dennis Lacy

Posted 25 August 2012 - 01:23 PM

Yup, my bad in calling it an 'A'. I specifically used the 'T' to avoid having to do even more mods necessary to use the excellent 'A' spring from the old Revell 1/25 '31 Woody kit (in order to get the rear end width I was after with the juice-brake backing plates). Good sharp eye, and thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will change the incorrect post so anyone reading it will get the right info.

Using the 'A' spring would have allowed putting the crossmember in a little higher between the rails, which I would have prefered, and the spring is a little stiffer, being (I THINK) 1/4 inch wider in 1:1, but there were other interference problems shaping up. I think the 'T' spring will give me just a hair more room to route the muffled part of the exhaust system.

I'll also finish up more correct-looking rear-axle spring hangers than the stuck-in tubes, but I'll leave them a little wrong for strength's sake.


Like you, I work on all of this old junk for a living so I can't help but notice every little detail, I'm programmed to. haha

#76 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 26 August 2012 - 06:41 AM

One of the things lacking on the old AMT '32 Ford kit is the stamped 'reveal' in the side of the frame rails. It's present on the Revell kits, but it's too sharp and needs work to look right.

The reveal is a signature part of the '32 design. No other year Ford frame has it, and it's there because, unlike a lot of other '30s cars, the '32 Ford doesn't use a side valence between the body and the running boards. The frame is exposed and is part of the styling, and the reveal follows the lines of the front and rear fenders which are bolted to it. It shows on a fenderless car, and is necessary to look right.

It's supposed to end just forward of the firewall....

Posted Image

A milling cutter in the Dremel makes quick work of the roughing-in.....

Posted Image

Chasing the shape with a flat-file gets the major irregularities out....

Posted Image

Finish shaping with 180 wet followed by 600 wet and this is what it should look like....

Posted Image


Another problem with the AMT '32s is that the frame is made narrower than would be correct in-scale, because it has to fit inside the fender / running board unit on a full-fendered build. The fender / running board unit in the AMT kits has a side valence molded in, which is not right. The Revell kit goes together like a real '32, with the rail exposed. I'm not going to bother widening the rails on this build at this point, and a good 'cheat' is to just pretend the rails have been 'pinched' or narrowed to allow for the body to be channeled. This was sometimes done in 1:1.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 27 August 2012 - 01:17 AM.


#77 Joker

Joker

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,780 posts
  • Location:Old Dominion
  • Full Name:James Scott

Posted 26 August 2012 - 06:50 AM

That's some detailed Dremel work
but the result is stunning.

#78 James2

James2

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,421 posts
  • Location:Portage Co. Ohio
  • Full Name:JamesRiesII

Posted 26 August 2012 - 06:51 AM

Did you use your third hand to take those pix?

#79 Ace-Garageguy

Ace-Garageguy

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 26 August 2012 - 07:15 AM

Did you use your third hand to take those pix?


Ummm......at last the truth comes out.........

#80 Mike Kucaba

Mike Kucaba

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,011 posts
  • Location:Mesa,AZ
  • Full Name:Michael J Kucaba

Posted 26 August 2012 - 05:16 PM

Helmet Cam?