147 replies to this topic

[Ace-Garageguy]

Tom, I appreciate the info. I've heard a lot of good things about Norm's parts, and I'll certainly give that frame a try sometime. In the meantime, I have a lot of old AMT '32 frames, and a lot of Model A frames and crossmembers, so I'll keep on building them like I do the real ones. I can get exactly the stance I want every time. Definitely more work, but it makes every one that much different too.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Got a little more done...

This is the wishbone from the AMT rear end separated from the axle. It's necessary to use the '32 wishbone to fit between the frame rails. (If the wishbones are 'split', longer ones can be used, but that's not the look I'm going for on this car.) Again, this is very similar to building a 1:1. I've also sprayed some primer on the Halibrand center section after removing a little mold flash. The original driveshaft didn't have the correct taper on the forward end, so I've removed it and turned a new one from styrene, and made up a bolt-flange to attach it to the center section.



I also used to old Dremel 'lathe' to turn a cup for the forward universal on the driveshaft. After the unit is back in the chassis, I'll determine the right length to mate with the trans.

[Tom Setzer]

Hal You Build real Hot Rods? I grew up building AV8s and Dueces at Curtis Speed and Hot Rod shop, we would often use a rear cross member/spring perch from an old A model frame that wasn't worth using for any thing else on our Deuce frames. Then Clyde started manufacturing His own Frames and Crossmembers to sell to other people.
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[Gluhead]

Not sure how I missed this one, but I think this is the best use of that old ill-proportioned body I've ever seen. You've brought everything together to make it work for you rather than against you. Very cool! I'll definitely be watching this one.

And that GeeBee, holy ###### now that I know it's mislabeled I have got to get one. Nothing better than a prop plane and a real hot rod sitting together.

[Ace-Garageguy]

......... we would often use a rear cross member/spring perch from an old A model frame that wasn't worth using for any thing else on our Deuce frames.......

Exactly. Stay tuned for the next installment..........

[Ace-Garageguy]

So, here's the Model A rear crossmember cut out of the model A chassis, just like real.....The marks are where it will be trimmed to fit between the '32 rails.



The reason the rear suspension complete with spring had to be built-up first is that it's ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL to know that the axle centerline and the ride height are the same as on the mockup when you glue in the crossmember, if you want to maintain the exact stance. I do, as it's a large part of the character of the car. I've seen well-respected pros get this wrong on 1:1 cars, and it looks really stupid if you blow it.



Because the Halibrand quick-change is a different shape than the '37 or '40 rear that came out, I had to make up new rear floors and a tunnel extension to clear everything. All that's left now of the original AMT frame is the rails.



Here's the assembled unit happily installed in the car, with everything fitting right.

[Foxer]

You're doing a well a job documenting this build as you are on the plastic! I'm enjoying every word and every drop of weld .. umm ... glue.

[James2]

​Well done thus far!

[Gluhead]

All the right moves...

I'm really curious to see how those foam corners work out.

[1930fordpickup]

Looks great !

[gpugh1976]

Wow!

[Road Runner 79]

Getting there........letting the primer shrink in while I work on other parts of the build.

It looks perfect just like this!

[Dennis Lacy]

Excellent work putting together the quick change rear and other necessary mods. All the mixing and matching feels like doing the real thing, doesn't it....

I went back and found mention of where the rear spring came from so I could make a mental note because it is actually a Model T spring and the nicest one in scale I've ever seen!

[Ace-Garageguy]

.... it is actually a Model T spring and the nicest one in scale I've ever seen!

Yup, my bad in calling it an 'A'. I specifically used the 'T' to avoid having to do even more mods necessary to use the excellent 'A' spring from the old Revell 1/25 '31 Woody kit (in order to get the rear end width I was after with the juice-brake backing plates). Good sharp eye, and thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will change the incorrect post so anyone reading it will get the right info.

Using the 'A' spring would have allowed putting the crossmember in a little higher between the rails, which I would have prefered, and the spring is a little stiffer, being (I THINK) 1/4 inch wider in 1:1, but there were other interference problems shaping up. I think the 'T' spring will give me just a hair more room to route the muffled part of the exhaust system.

I'll also finish up more correct-looking rear-axle spring hangers than the stuck-in tubes, but I'll leave them a little wrong for strength's sake.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 25 August 2012 - 08:51 AM.

[Dennis Lacy]

Yup, my bad in calling it an 'A'. I specifically used the 'T' to avoid having to do even more mods necessary to use the excellent 'A' spring from the old Revell 1/25 '31 Woody kit (in order to get the rear end width I was after with the juice-brake backing plates). Good sharp eye, and thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will change the incorrect post so anyone reading it will get the right info.

Using the 'A' spring would have allowed putting the crossmember in a little higher between the rails, which I would have prefered, and the spring is a little stiffer, being (I THINK) 1/4 inch wider in 1:1, but there were other interference problems shaping up. I think the 'T' spring will give me just a hair more room to route the muffled part of the exhaust system.

I'll also finish up more correct-looking rear-axle spring hangers than the stuck-in tubes, but I'll leave them a little wrong for strength's sake.

Like you, I work on all of this old junk for a living so I can't help but notice every little detail, I'm programmed to. haha

[Ace-Garageguy]

One of the things lacking on the old AMT '32 Ford kit is the stamped 'reveal' in the side of the frame rails. It's present on the Revell kits, but it's too sharp and needs work to look right.

The reveal is a signature part of the '32 design. No other year Ford frame has it, and it's there because, unlike a lot of other '30s cars, the '32 Ford doesn't use a side valence between the body and the running boards. The frame is exposed and is part of the styling, and the reveal follows the lines of the front and rear fenders which are bolted to it. It shows on a fenderless car, and is necessary to look right.

It's supposed to end just forward of the firewall....



A milling cutter in the Dremel makes quick work of the roughing-in.....



Chasing the shape with a flat-file gets the major irregularities out....



Finish shaping with 180 wet followed by 600 wet and this is what it should look like....




Another problem with the AMT '32s is that the frame is made narrower than would be correct in-scale, because it has to fit inside the fender / running board unit on a full-fendered build. The fender / running board unit in the AMT kits has a side valence molded in, which is not right. The Revell kit goes together like a real '32, with the rail exposed. I'm not going to bother widening the rails on this build at this point, and a good 'cheat' is to just pretend the rails have been 'pinched' or narrowed to allow for the body to be channeled. This was sometimes done in 1:1.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 27 August 2012 - 01:17 AM.

[Joker]

That's some detailed Dremel work
but the result is stunning.

[James2]

Did you use your third hand to take those pix?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Did you use your third hand to take those pix?

Ummm......at last the truth comes out.........

[Mike Kucaba]

Helmet Cam?