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'32 Ford roadster gluebomb rework. Oct 13, minor adjustment


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#141 BKcustoms

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 02:53 PM

I've been wondering about this build too, any progress?

#142 CrazyGirl

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 03:03 PM

dang amazing work, he impresses me



#143 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 03:23 PM

The little car says thanks for remembering and asking about it. I wasn't entirely happy with the fit of the tonneau and the bases of the windshield pillars.The Carson top is taking a while to get right, too. I got more crazing on the valve-covers than I'd like because I used a hot paint and no primer...duh...so I've been trying to justify buying another '50 Olds to get some more. Then I started looking at correcting the slight proportion in-accuracies on the old AMT body shells, and on the days nice enough to paint, I've had to do real work. The paint is black lacquer, so to avoid blushing I'm waiting for a nice, warm, dry and windless day. Still in the rotation, but moving slowly waiting for spring. I've also been putting off making the 'street' exhaust system, the last real bugger on this build.


Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 27 March 2013 - 03:34 PM.


#144 horsepower

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 03:29 PM

Here's another teaser with some additional progress.

DSCN3245.jpg

Nice Gee Bee there, what scale/kit is it that has always been one of my favorite Golden Age Racing  planes of all. Nice deuce too!



#145 crazyrichard

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 09:30 PM

well still have ot forgot this one here as well :)

would love to see this continued :wub:



#146 cobramike

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 02:21 PM

Loving the rebuild, it is going to be a looker so keep us updated.  



#147 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:29 AM

One of the things I'm trying is Ace Hardware black rattle-can lacquer. It's cheap for a lot of it, and it covers very well. I've already experimented with sanding / polishing it and it gives the finish I want for this period build...NOT clearcoated and looking like it was dipped in syrup. There's some peel in this shot, but it'll all come out in the end. I let the primer shrink in for months and then final sanded just before shooting the color. Stupidly, I neglected to clean the body with 70% isopropyl alcohol first. The other side is horribly fisheyed, and will have to be sanded back to primer. Stupid. When I saw what was happening, I let it flash and then cleaned THIS side with isopropyl before painting. No problem.

 

DSCN0039_zps12c5d8fb.jpg


Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 06 May 2013 - 10:33 AM.


#148 southpier

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 11:54 AM

between the various threads, it seems you know your way around a paint job.

 

Q: any chance you could give a quick 'how-to' on the basics of getting from orange peel to acceptable paint?

 

my paint jobs (rattle can) tend to be "dry" and never really look finished. right now, it's okay, but at some point I don't want to make excuses!

 

thanks



#149 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 01:36 PM



between the various threads, it seems you know your way around a paint job.

 

Q: any chance you could give a quick 'how-to' on the basics of getting from orange peel to acceptable paint?

 

my paint jobs (rattle can) tend to be "dry" and never really look finished. right now, it's okay, but at some point I don't want to make excuses!

 

thanks

 

Gladly.. I had a lot of repair and remedial work to do on this one. It just takes a little time and patience.

 

This is the 'bad' side after I'd washed off the horribly fisheyed black paint (while it was still wet) with 70% isopropyl. The alcohol attacked the Duplicolor primer a little bit too, so the entire side of the car had to be re-sanded with 400 grit wet.

 

DSCN0156_zps6c4261e3.jpg

 

While I was at it, I re-sanded the 'good' side with 600 wet to level the orange peel in the paint.

 

DSCN0158_zps51ce9f9f.jpg

 

Bad side with 3 new coats of Ace Hardware rattle can black lacquer. This will need to be sanded with 600 wet and re-shot, to make it as slick as I need.

 

DSCN0163_zps5f38d474.jpg

 

Good side with 3 more coats of black lacquer. Orange peel this time is less noticeable, will sand and polish out.

 

DSCN0164_zps63f5dded.jpg

 

...and just for fun, I finished up one of the wheel / tire assemblies to get a better idea of the final look...

 

DSCN0167_zpsd7c2e86e.jpg


Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 12 July 2013 - 01:43 PM.


#150 Joker

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 02:52 PM

Wow..that burgundy/red color on the steel wheels looks good.

Who makes it ?



#151 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 04:51 PM

Wow..that burgundy/red color on the steel wheels looks good.

Who makes it ?

 

Testors 1204 Gloss Dark Red, enamel rattlecan.



#152 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 04:54 PM

Nice Gee Bee there, what scale/kit is it that has always been one of my favorite Golden Age Racing  planes of all. Nice deuce too!

 

Thanks. The Gee Bee is a vintage Pyro / Lindberg kit that's mistakenly labeled as 1/32.

 

If you measure and scale out the wingspan, the actual scale is about 1/26 (though the pilot figure IS 1/32).



#153 crazyrichard

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 09:32 PM

very very nice :) cant waight to see it whole :)



#154 exesivefire

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 03:12 PM

You have been a busy guy lately, this has always been one I wanted to see finished

#155 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 02:15 AM

...... this has always been one I wanted to see finished

 

......cant waight to see it whole :)

 

Me too, and thanks for your interest and comments. If I were starting this one now, there are several things I'd do differently, and I'm wrestling with myself about going back and changing some of them. I've already made a lot of major changes that have dragged the build out, so I'm trying to discipline myself and finish what's already here.



#156 Greg Myers

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 06:33 AM

Man that's just great, hot rod history and a great model building tutorial. Thank you for all the hard work, modeling and photography, Bill. :o


Edited by Greg Myers, 14 July 2013 - 06:34 AM.


#157 John Goschke

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 08:15 AM

Looks great with paint on it! One of the neatest builds I've seen of this venerable kit. Really like the dark red on the wheels; well chosen!



#158 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 06:47 AM

Man that's just great, hot rod history and a great model building tutorial. Thank you for all the hard work, modeling and photography, Bill. :o

 

Looks great with paint on it! One of the neatest builds I've seen of this venerable kit. Really like the dark red on the wheels; well chosen!

 

 

Thank you both, very much.



#159 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:42 AM

Paint on the body is sanding and polishing nicely, and there seems to be plenty there to get the look I want without going through it. This is Ace Hardware rattlecan black lacquer.

 

DSCN0632_zps0c80f1c8.jpg

 

Part of the whole reason for doing this build was to represent a streetable hot-rod that would have been seriously fast, and capable of being raced with only minor equipment changes (removing the windshield and fitting a hard tonneau, removing the big draggy lights, swapping on race-rubber and uncorking the headers). "Seriously fast" in the period this build represents would be in the neighborhood of 100mph in the quarter, and pushing 150mph top-end on the lakes (with enough gear). With 230 HP available from a stock junkyard '56 Olds 324, an 1800 pound car with a modified engine would be plenty quick. A '57 J2 371, set up like this engine with 3, 2bbl carbs, and an "export" package would push close to 325HP. This car would STILL be fast, even today, especially with a 5-speed gearbox in place of the LaSalle 3.

 

That was also part of the reason for the unorthodox wedge-channel. It allows the body to point into the wind relatively straight on, creating less drag than a tail-high rake would. Channeling the body more in the rear gets the tail down without having to Zee the frame rails, which is a big deal in 1:1, and a fair bit of work in scale as well. The shot below, with dry-lake style rubber and moon caps shows a right-on angle-of-attack for top speed runs.

 

Another reason for the wedge-channel was to be able to come up with a plausible reason for using the short-at-the-cowl AMT body shell. All the AMT '32 shells look like they're sectioned a bit, and a good reason for doing this on a wedge-channeled car, like this, would be to clear side pipes, as shown. A more correct shell like the Revell '32 would need a different approach.

 

Once the frame rails are gloss black, the initial impression will be of a normal '32 profile, but a little sleeker somehow.

 

DSCN0694_zps687124b2.jpg

 

I made the hard tonneau by widening and modifying a kit piece, and I've fitted it pretty closely to the cockpit rail in the rear. After primer, I'll pull a mold and build a f'glass part that will have a cutout for the driver's head.

 

DSCN0665_zps6e39c923.jpg

 

I like this view of the car with the lakes tires. It's exactly what I'd envisioned at the very beginning. The PE grille is from Model Car Garage and it's just beautiful. It fits both the Revell and the AMT grille shells (the inside of the AMT shells have to be fitted carefully)

 

DSCN0684_zpsb6e588da.jpg

 

I can imagine seeing this view of the car from a raised timing-tower on the lakes, and can I imagine hearing the unmuffled 324 Olds cackling through the open pipes. Zoom zoom.

 

DSCN0677_zps9e3318fa.jpg


Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 07 September 2013 - 09:34 AM.


#160 berr13

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 09:10 AM

WOW!  This is some fantastic work.  I'm really looking forward to seeing you finish this beauty...