1959 Chevy Impala-----Update! Some TEDIOUS Seat work! 2/16/14
Posted 25 July 2012 - 02:41 AM
I'm glad you're back.
Posted 25 July 2012 - 03:40 AM
Posted 25 July 2012 - 12:41 PM
I have a Revell '60 Impala that I am having trouble with Revell getting a replacement body and glass for, as it was crushed when I opened the box. I do not feel like begging to them for the replacement parts, so.... Here is what I
No, you are not seeing things. This is a genuine 1960 "California" El Camino, in other words, a factory built '60 El Camino, with Impala Grade Trim. I was going to do one of these anyway, but when I saw the real deal, I decided to do it. I am leaning towards Roman Red and Ermine White, or Suntan Copper and Ermine White.
Posted 25 July 2012 - 04:22 PM
Hmmm........I've not seen that before. I've tried other scribers in the past, and they somehow never seemed to work right for me. I'll certainly check around for that! One can never have too many tools!
Bill, I've gone through about a dozen of the Micro-Mark panel scribes, and a great Military builder at my LHS suggested this one. Unlike the Micro-Mark scribe, you won't bend the tip out of shape when you put a small amount of pressure on it. It cuts cleanly and easily, and the flat nose also has the ability to scribe a line. It's great for making new door panels or opening up a door or trunk!
Posted 31 July 2012 - 12:02 PM
Then I added Dynatron Putty-Cote on top and when dry, block sanded the excess away as can be seen here..........
I should have known that I'd run into a SNAFU when I noticed a chip or lifting of the putty from the primer. The putty should bite right into the primer, and of course the primer should bite into the plastic. Well, I forgot to wash the body thoroughly from me handling it, and the putty lifted off the primer, and the primer didn't bite into the plastic as usual.
In my zeal, I wanted to get through this particular step, and rushed things just a bit, forgetting the basics-----------the surface has to be squeaky clean in order for things to adhere.
That's definite Modeling 101!
I took a chance, and block sanded the rear deck anyway with the 225 grit sandpaper, and the balsa wood sanding block, followed by 400 and then 600 grit paper. All the while I scored the trim with the back edge of the exacto blade (lightly!) as I went along.............I want to preserve the trim for future Bare Metal Foiling.
Well as those of you who remember the Bob Ross painting shows.....this turned out to be a "happy accident" as I was able to flatten that area, and get rid of those "valleys" on the top of both fins.
Kinda hard to see from this angle, but that area is now flattened to my liking. While I was at it, take note of the bar now running across the inside of the rear shelf area. This will be the "anchor" for the trunk hinges since this model lacks a tulip panel per the 1:1.
The corners of the rear deck, will be made more symmetrical as I get farther into the build.
I figure it's time to start working on the trunk lid. Since I hate cutting up an extra kit just to salvage doors or trunks, I like to make do with what I have. Unfortunately, when you delve into the world of opening doors and such, this can leave you with a big gap that is big enough for a mouse to crawl through!
Not acceptable at all!
Here's what we're going to do.......add plastic back around the perimeter of the trunk, and then carefully file and sand away until we get the desired "shut lines" that look in scale, and won't take away from the finished product. This is also more economical with the cost of kits running $20-$25 a pop!
When trying to tighten up radii on doors or trunks, one of the tricks I use is to cut a small piece of tubing that is close to the radius of the corner that I want to shape.
Here's my trusty K&S tubing cutter I've had for years...........it's great for tasks such as this! Below, you'll see the radii I want to use on the corners of the trunk.
And here is where they ended up................
You may be wondering why I went to the extra trouble..........well, I've tried using straight plastic in the past, but being plastic has an incredible "memory", the plastic wants to pull away from the corners, and cause trouble in staying put. Why not glue something in place that's already rounded, and save the headache? BTW, my liquid glue of choice is Ambroid Pro Weld.
For the rest of the trunk, I used .020 sheet plastic in strips and surrounded it.
In fact, I just did this last evening, so it's all ready for sanding and shaping.
Well, that's it for now...........hopefully if I'm not too tired and the OT doesn't get in the way too much, I can have another update for you shortly.
Thanks for tuning in!
Edited by MrObsessive, 01 August 2012 - 11:10 AM.
Posted 31 July 2012 - 06:11 PM
Posted 31 July 2012 - 08:59 PM
Posted 31 July 2012 - 11:25 PM
By the way i just love that Olds please dont forget to finnish it ;(
Posted 02 August 2012 - 02:53 AM
Posted 02 August 2012 - 07:22 AM
Thanks for the updates.
Posted 02 August 2012 - 12:29 PM
I had a little trouble making out what you were saying at when you started the Dremel, though. Seeing that video, short as it is, was very helpful.
Posted 07 August 2012 - 11:54 AM
Over the last few days, I spent some time smoothing out the rear deck and getting the shut lines close to what I want. Some very minor cleanup will still be needed before I get too far, but I'm very happy with the results so far.
They say "the proof is in the pudding" so here are some pics of what's been done to this point........
The rear deck and deck lid all sanded out and smoothed over..............
I have yet to add the "lip" that will go around the perimeter of the trunk, and also of course, there are hinges to be made. Take note of the rear window "support" that's there pretty much like the 1:1 due to the lack of a tulip panel.
One of the next things I'm going to do is tackle that rear fin trim on the deck lid. It got pretty fouled up when I was trying to cut away the trunk, and now I'm going to replicate it with some strip styrene.
Also, you may have noticed that the roof is permanently attached now. I figured since the trunk and rear deck is very close to where I want it, why not affix the roof and add some strength to the body now?
As I mentioned above, some minor cleanup will be needed as well to the front vent panel, but I'm liking what I see so far as to me, this is a much better improvement over the kit's original '59 hardtop roofline.
For grins, I'm going to include opening doors on this one as well...........I've started on the driver's side door shown in the following pics here...........
I gotta tell ya, that thin dogleg is making me quite nervous! I think before I do any more work on the trunk, I'm going to build up the door jamb, to support that dogleg. I hate fixing broken windshield frames as they never seem to come out quite right for me. Also notice the indentations for the chrome in the sides of the body. I'm going to strip the chrome on the side trim and add these in ahead of time as BMF'ing will look more realistic for this type of stainless, and the 1:1 has no "dents" in the door jambs, due to the trim.
Well, that's it for now! I hope you folks are liking what you see so far. I have some interesting tricks coming up I think you'll be interested in so stay tuned!
Posted 07 August 2012 - 12:22 PM