I plan to take a very long time with this kit and be more patient than I have ever been. I'll take the chrome pieces from the kit, de-chrome them and remove the lacquer base before cutting open holes where needed (for the side pipes) and removing imperfections. After getting everything just how I want it, I'll bag them up and ship them out to Chrome Tech USA for re-chroming so that I won't have to worry about the attachment points, chrome scraped from smoothing out the detachment points from the fret, etc. I know this will take a month or more to get done and get back to me, but it will be worth it. (And by the time they come back, my 60 day separation from the job I will have been laid off from will have ended and I'll be back to a 40 hour work week again).
Just wanted to start up a thread here in the Big Boyz section to document my progress. Thus far, I have only done some preliminary work on the photo-etch fret getting the emblems painted properly. I also painted the back of the thin plastic sheet that they printed out the gauges on so that when the front side of them are observed they look absolutely stunning. Once I get the Vette in the mail, I'll take a look at the interior dashboard first and sand away the back where the gauges are so that the film can be placed there after sealing it to some very thing white styrene for support.
For modifications to the kit, I plan on doing very little. The 63-67 coupes have doors which would be a nightmare to fully open up so I do not plan on doing that. All I'm going to do is cut open the headlights (God I love my jeweler's saw. It cuts fast, and more importantly, very straight) and build some light bezels to use for the headlights. Getting them to rotate will be pretty simple to do with some straight metal tubing.
For paint, I'm going with Goodwood Green Metallic. I got this from the automotive touch-up site I got my Admiral Blue Metallic paint from when I built the '96 Grand Sport. I picked up two 12 ounce spray cans of the base color, two 12 ounce cans of the gray primer, and two 12 ounce cans of their incredible clear coat. All their paints dry super quick, super smooth, and incredibly hard. The price of all the paint was quite expensive ($75.00), but a good run at the poker table this past week has paid for it, and even if I didn't have a good night at the table, I'd have gone and bought the paint anyway as it is great stuff. For the interior, I'm going to go to AutoZone and pick up a can of the interior fabric/vinyl flat black paint from Rust-o-leum or Duplicor. Whichever brand they have. I'll also test out the paint on the sprue once I've primed it with the gray primer I have coming in the mail. This way I'll know if it will harm the plastic.
For the hood stripe, I was worried that I'd need to go and cut out precise decals from the white decal film I have as I read many places which stated that a Goodwood Green Metallic with black interior 1967 Corvette used a white stripe. Doing further searching, I saw a 1963-1967 Corvette Restoration guide preview on Google. The preview contained the color options available for the Vette and showed that cars which came from the factory in Goodwood Green Metallic with a black interior had a black stripe on the hood. Only the cars with a black interior with white seats had the white stripe. Since mine is fully black, I can use the black decal which came with the kit which shouldn't be a problem at all. I'll need to test out the clear coat I'm getting (and for which I have a little bit left in a can I have) on one of the other stripe decals that the kit comes with, but I'm pretty sure it won't cause any harm.
The engine will be fully wired and detailed as it's pretty simple doing this on large scale cars. For the spark plug wiring, I'm going to use some silver solder I have as it keeps its shape incredibly well, and I can put in the braided pattern that the shielded wires on radio equipped Vettes came with onto the solder by rolling it over the teeth of some pliers I have.
The painting process will be starting out with smoothing out any areas where flash was removed from the body, filling in any small depressions with putty, fully sanding the entire body to give the primer some "teeth" to grab onto, and deepen the panel lines to ensure the multiple layers of paint don't fill them in. I'll then put a light coat of primer on there, check to see if more body work needs to be done, then put another coat of primer on to fully ensure the body is sealed. I will then put on two or three coats of the Goodwood Green Metallic paint depending on how smoothly they go on. If the second coat goes on and appears smooth, then I'll stop at two. If I have to do any sanding of heavy orange peel I'll put on a third after smoothing out the second. After that, I'll put my first coat of clear on. When it's dry, the black hood stripe decals will go on, then I'll let it fully dry and put on another heavier coat of clear. Once that second coat is dry, I'll know if I need to add another coat of clear, but the way this clear covers and smooths out on its own, I doubt I'll need to. At this point, the body should be incredibly beautiful and completely cured before I even get going with the rest. (As I'll be waiting for my parts to come back from Chrome Tech USA).
Anyway, any suggestions or comments on my plans are fully welcomed. I really want this thing to stand out. When it's done, I'll build a display case for it out of the bunch of Lexan I have lying around and some spare wood. This way I'll be able to display it without having to dust it every few weeks. I REALLY can't wait for this to come in. Especially after finding the Chevy Engine Red paint in the MM Acrylic Line.
Edited by Jdurg, 25 October 2012 - 11:33 AM.