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Revell '57 Ford Custom 2'n1


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#141 Agent G

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 07:57 AM

Thanks Charlie!

 

At least out here the cars only get sunburnt and sand blasted.

 

G



#142 Danno

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 08:48 AM

Dan, when will the NPP have the kits?, I know I had him put me down for one (shocking , I know), I am asking as I never seem to have cash on me when I need it :lol:

 

 

He has them now, came in after the Moonlight Modelers Christmas Banquet (8th) but before the Cactus Car Modelers meeting (12th).  He has several but they are going fast.  If he had you down for one, he'll hold it for you.

 

I picked up mine (Wed) and it's a goody!   Can't wait for the police version!!!  It should be a classic.  Hadn't planned to get a lot of them, but may have to change that.  I'm thinking ... KS (KHP) ~ CO (CSP) ~ AZ (HP) ~ Barton County (KS) Sheriff ~ plus chassis/engine for a couple of '59 Fords for Chicago PD and Sedgwick County (KS) Sheriff.  

 

B)

 

B)  



#143 dragcarz

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 10:25 AM

A Little disappointed..... Got mine friday at LHS paid $26.97, And the frame is so badly bent and twisted I dont think I can use it



#144 Casey

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 11:19 AM

A Little disappointed..... Got mine friday at LHS paid $26.97, And the frame is so badly bent and twisted I dont think I can use it

 

Contact Revell for a replacement. It happens, and they'll send a replacement for free. http://www.revell.co...port/index.html



#145 azers

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 06:05 PM

Or take it back to your hobby store and if they are good they will exchange it for a good one. I have had to do that a couple of times.

#146 midnightprowler

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 11:49 PM

Frames are easily straightened out with a little heat and a simple twist back straight.



#147 dragcarz

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 01:42 AM

Thanks for the suggestions, I havent had to get a replacement part in a long time, wasnt sure they still did that. Ive Straightened frames before with a  twist, and that issue is probably repairable but this one is diamonded, Has anyone tried a microwave to heat a warped part?

Attached Files



#148 niteowl7710

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 01:48 AM

Hmm me think that wasn't cooled entirely prior to getting ejected out of the mold.  The easiest thing (unless your LHS is over hill and dale) is take it back to your place of purchase and get a replacement.  Any reputable shop will have a way to deal with Great Plains in regards to getting a refund (aka replacement kit) for their inventory and supply you with a kit with something less appearing to have been rear ended by a cement truck.

 

You're looking at 2-4 weeks (my last replacement part was almost 2 weeks to the day I requested it) for them to get a new frame out to you, presuming they don't want you to crate that one up on your own dime and send it to them so they can examine it.



#149 dragcarz

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 03:27 AM

 

Contact Revell for a replacement. It happens, and they'll send a replacement for free. http://www.revell.co...port/index.html

Thanks for info  ordered a replacemant .



#150 impcon

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 09:17 AM

I opened one of mine last night ( I just received two of them ) and everything looks fine. It's a VERY nice kit!!!



#151 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 09:43 AM

So Roger, you've got a replacement coming whichever way, right?

 

You might take this opportunity to play around with just-off-boiling water, see if that helps you any with the warped one.

 

You just take a saucepan or pot big enough to accept the frame and fill it with enough water to immerse the part.  Bring that water to a rolling boil, then take it off the heat.  Grab some tongs and drop in the part before the water cools, say maybe for three seconds at the start.  You want to start off with short times and then work your way up as needed, so you don't immediately distort the part.

 

If you get it to a point where you get the faintest whiff of hot plastic fume, it'll probably be ready to hold the shape you twist it into.  I'd start by undoing the diamond first, then get it all on one plane.

 

Of course, all the usual disclaimers about being careful not to burn yourself, blablabla.  I've had good success straightening stuff out, eliminating body warps, and closing floorpan-to-rocker panel gaps this way.



#152 Edsel-Dan

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 06:40 PM

Microwaves work more on Liquid content than solid, so would not heat the part

enough to even notice let alone allow you to remove a warp.



#153 Casey

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 10:03 AM

Would it straighten out enough once it's attached to the floorpan? I haven't seen any pictures of the kit's contents other than the test shot, but it appears the floorpan piece might be able to help hold the frame in the correct, untwisted position.



#154 Scalper

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 10:05 AM

Would it straighten out enough once it's attached to the floorpan? I haven't seen any pictures of the kit's contents other than the test shot, but it appears the floorpan piece might be able to help hold the frame in the correct, untwisted position.

 Probably with crazy glue.



#155 johnbuzzed

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 10:46 AM

 

Nice pictures- they'll be good for the "old" AMT kit, too.  I gotta keep them.



#156 dragcarz

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 01:19 AM

So Roger, you've got a replacement coming whichever way, right?

 

You might take this opportunity to play around with just-off-boiling water, see if that helps you any with the warped one.

 

You just take a saucepan or pot big enough to accept the frame and fill it with enough water to immerse the part.  Bring that water to a rolling boil, then take it off the heat.  Grab some tongs and drop in the part before the water cools, say maybe for three seconds at the start.  You want to start off with short times and then work your way up as needed, so you don't immediately distort the part.

 

If you get it to a point where you get the faintest whiff of hot plastic fume, it'll probably be ready to hold the shape you twist it into.  I'd start by undoing the diamond first, then get it all on one plane.

 

Of course, all the usual disclaimers about being careful not to burn yourself, blablabla.  I've had good success straightening stuff out, eliminating body warps, and closing floorpan-to-rocker panel gaps this way.

I'm going to give this a shot, I have nothing to loose. I've just not been very successful in my prio attempts. I;ll keep you posted.



#157 jeffbrad

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 01:24 PM

I ended up starting at the back and working to front using epoxy and clamps.took a while but worked



#158 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 03:37 PM

I'm going to give this a shot, I have nothing to loose. I've just not been very successful in my prio attempts. I;ll keep you posted.

 

Kool!  I'll be interested in how it works for you.



#159 ronr

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Posted 21 December 2012 - 07:44 AM

I kinda like this one;

ctrp_0711_01_zfireball_grand_nationalext
ctrp_0711_02_zfireball_grand_nationalext



#160 timc

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 10:05 AM

Did anyone mention that the carbs are molded to the intakes on both versions? I think this is a good kit, but come on it's a bit of a let down in that respect.Gonna raid the amt version for  some more adequate parts.( intake, super charger setup). just my thoughts guys.