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Cheap craft paints


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#1 hooterville75

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:16 PM

Is it possible to use any of the cheaper craft paints in the airbrush painting scale models ? I often see Apple Barell, Americana, Createx, etc paints very cheap at Walmart, and Michaels. Will these paints work successfully out of an airbrush to styrene models ? Would be a huge money saver if they did but chances are Im assuming they wont. Has anyone used and had success with any of these ? Thanks in advance for the info.

#2 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:32 PM

I use them all the time. The main caveats are that they need to be thinned (of course that makes them last alot longer) a bit more than the average paint, and you need to be close to the subject. These paints dry lightning fast. Most of them will also need a clear coat between colors on multi color jobs because they can peel easily, kinda like neons.

#3 TheGrandfatherHobbies

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:33 PM

ive used the createx and i bought a bunch of the cheapo acryl 50cent paint and reduced it it just comes out flat. but it works...what do u use for clear magnum?

Edited by TheGrandfatherHobbies, 23 September 2012 - 06:34 PM.


#4 CadillacPat

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 12:30 AM

Sure you can use those cheap craft paints through your AirBrush, when thinned properly.
But,
What have you gained by saving a few pennies, really, a few pennies.

The pigment size of cheap acrylic paints is not designed for a smooth, consistent paint job, automotive style.

Paint jobs, complete paintjobs, at our scale sizes are not expensive to lay down.
Don't go for the cheapest way possible.

Mangum has suggested using Clearcoats in between colorcoats of those cheap acrylics.
I've never heard of anyone doing that and have no idea why anyone would.
Acrylics are meant to be heat set with a blow dryer.


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Edited by CadillacPat, 24 September 2012 - 12:37 AM.


#5 Deathgoblin

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 03:57 AM

I use the craft store acrylics all the time. Haven't tried them in my airbrush yet. I use them primarily in interiors and detail painting. It's hard to tell how they'd come out for painting a body.

#6 TheGrandfatherHobbies

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 12:47 PM

unless u were looking for a flat finish, i wouldnt use it for a body, but my createx comes out glossy, but never used it for a body paintjob.
like brian said above me, they work great for interior work brushed or out of the gun

#7 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 01:01 PM

ive used the createx and i bought a bunch of the cheapo acryl 50cent paint and reduced it it just comes out flat. but it works...what do u use for clear magnum?

I use the same clear coats that I use for other paints. They do take about three thin coats of gloss to get a shine since they will soak up some clear if not properly sanded smooth, kinda like primers will. You can "heat set" them but there's really no point. All that does is make them dry in two minutes instead of five. I love how folks jump in just to bash. I don't know what business it is of anyone elses if you want to use cheaper paints. Yes, most folks use them primarily for small details and interiors, but sometimes there's a specific color that you want to use on a body and it just happens to be in those styles of paints. I use alot of them because i'm disabled and on a tight budget so I save where I can on supplies so I can afford more kits.

I've used Future, Krylon Krystal Kleer, Testors and a host of other clears and never had an issue.

P.S. Cadillac Pat- If you had read all of what I said you would know why I suggested clear between colors. I'll expand on it for you. Like neon paints, these paints are soft and will tear or pull away easily when unmasking them. To avoid this, a quick clear coat and scoring of the edge of the mask will give you a clean edge without tearing the paint.

Edited by MAGNUM4342, 24 September 2012 - 01:05 PM.


#8 hooterville75

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 02:43 PM

Magnum, Thanks for the reply my friend. I myself as like you am Disabled on SSDI so I need to save a buck when I can. If its pennies per kit then so be it. Savings are savings. Thats why I wondered about the cheaper craft paints as they're readily available at a cheaper price. I have no hobby shop near me as the closest is probably about one hour drive from my residence. I can go to a Michaels Craft Store or AC Moore or even Walmart and pick these craft paints up for a buck or less. So thanks for the valuable information in regards to the craft paints. I am a fan of picking up several bottles of paint from any manufacturer and attempting to use it. Never know what the outcome will be until you try. So do to your information and advice, I believe I will try this for the interiors and fine details and pick up the primary colors to start to see how it turns out. Being disabled on SSDI if you find any tips or tricks to save a few bucks here and there scale modeling please do pm me with the info on how to save and Ill do the same should I run into any ways to save a buck. I've only built one kit so far which was a Nascar kit but have resorted to Scale modeling as a way to occupy my time since being placed on SSDI. Nice to meet you and again thanks for the valuable info. Enjoy your evening my friend.

#9 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 03:19 PM

Thank you for the kind words. I started modeling at age five and am 47 now so i've tried just about everything there is to try and i'm still discovering new tricks. I recently moved to an area where there are also no hobby shops except about a hundred miles away. even at that I don't consider Hobby Lobby a hobby shop, so I too do my purchasing most often at Crafts 2000. Feel free to message me anytime. :)

#10 CadillacPat

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 12:16 PM

I use the same clear coats that I use for other paints. They do take about three thin coats of gloss to get a shine since they will soak up some clear if not properly sanded smooth, kinda like primers will. You can "heat set" them but there's really no point. All that does is make them dry in two minutes instead of five.
Mangum, that is not even close to being correct information.
Any AirBrusher who uses Acrylics knows that heat is used to cure the paint, not just make it dry faster.
Curing of Acrylics is necessary so the next water based layer of paint will not melt the previous one.
The heat causes the chemicals in the paint to bind.
I love how folks jump in just to bash.
What Bashing??????????????????? Do your research about paint and get the facts.
I don't know what business it is of anyone elses if you want to use cheaper paints.
This is a Forum. Once the question is posted it is "everybody's business" if they want to respond.
Yes, most folks use them primarily for small details and interiors, but sometimes there's a specific color that you want to use on a body and it just happens to be in those styles of paints. I use alot of them because i'm disabled and on a tight budget so I save where I can on supplies so I can afford more kits.
We all like to save money, but the paintjob is 50% of the build.

I've used Future, Krylon Krystal Kleer, Testors and a host of other clears and never had an issue.

P.S. Cadillac Pat- If you had read all of what I said you would know why I suggested clear between colors.
I read it, all two sentences, didn't take but a second to read.
I'll expand on it for you. Like neon paints, these paints are soft and will tear or pull away easily when unmasking them.
You're obviously not prepping youtr subject surface, not heat setting your acrylic paint, or you are using the wrong strength tape for taping purposes. That's the reason for your "tearing paint".
To avoid this, a quick clear coat and scoring of the edge of the mask will give you a clean edge without tearing the paint.
Piling on Clearcoats, not coats of Intercoat Clear, is going to result in a needlessly thick paintjob.

While I can understand people experimenting with cheap paints, in the end no matter what type paint used it is very inexpensive to finish a model.
The cheap Aerosol Walmart paints can be removed from their aerosol containers and used just as cheaply and with more efficiency than bottom of the barrel acrylics.
In the end there is only pennies difference.


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#11 TheGrandfatherHobbies

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 06:28 AM

i stand by my acrylics and 1.39 as compared to almost 4.99.......not exactly pennies difference.

#12 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 08:27 AM

:lol: :lol: :lol: Too freakin funny! Pat you started your last post with "Jesus, another ambush reply!". "ANOTHER...ambush reply". Why do you think that is Pat? Do you suppose it could be the arrogant, condescending way you talk to people? Your use of bold red I'M MAKING MY POINT AND YOU HAD BETTER LISTEN typeface? Or maybe it's the way you talk down to people? I'm not really sure. What I am sure of is that yes, there are acrylic paints out there that need heat set, but apple barrel and ceramcoat do not need to be heat set when used on a model kit. I should do my research? Trust me sweets, I have! For many many years now. If you want to be part of a discussion, ANY discussion you should stow the attitude and speak to people in a general, even and friendly way, and you won't have to make statements anymore like the one I quoted at the beginning of this post. Have a nice day. ;)

#13 jamesG

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 08:48 AM

Pat, where did you read that heat setting keeps one color from melting the previous one? heat setting provides color fastness on fabric and bonds it to other surfaces. if what you are saying is true then why don't you ever see top airbrushers heat setting between colors?

#14 CadillacPat

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 08:56 AM

Pat, where did you read that heat setting keeps one color from melting the previous one? heat setting provides color fastness on fabric and bonds it to other surfaces. if what you are saying is true then why don't you ever see top airbrushers heat setting between colors?


James,
Very clearly, top AirBrushers do not use the 50 cent AppleBarrel and FolkArt paints that the guy was asking about.
Those paints are used on textiles like T-Shirts and if the guy is not heat setting that stuff it is going to run all over everything the first time it gets wet.
Remember, the phrase, "cheap craft paints" from the initial post?

James, Top AirBrushers are using the best of Water Based and Water Borne paints, NOT cheap craft paints.

CadillacPat

#15 jamesG

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 09:12 AM

Pat you didn't answer my question. Where did you get your info?
And by the way those cheep craft paints can also be used on wood with ceramics metal glass etc.

#16 jamesG

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:00 AM

Pat first off what attitude I simply asked where you got your info is it personal experience or is there a web site. You are correct top airbrushes do use better paints which also require heat setting for color fastness and bonding but do not believe heat setting is needed between coats regardless of brand. I then only said that cheap craft paints could be used on other surfaces info which I obtained from several web sites including the paint manufacturer.
Second I haven't bashed criticized talked down to insulted or ganged up onthe ANYONE on this forum so I have no idea where that came from.
I like this forum and wouldn't intentionally do anything to cause another to leave. Even now I fight to keep civil as I was somewhat offended by your insinuation.




#17 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:17 AM

Check around on google guys. Nearly every site i've looked at says acrylic paints only need to be "heat set" when used on fabrics. On a solid non-porous surface they do not.

#18 jamesG

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:24 AM

keven, a few sites also state the heat setting is needed if the object is to be washed repeatedly such as a drinking glass. it can also be air set for 21 days before use.

#19 CadillacPat

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:35 AM

13 years ago I went straight from removing paint from Aerosol cans for my AirBrush, to using nothing but House Of Kolor.
I've never liked using any kind of Acrylics or waterbased paint.

CadillacPat


James, that is good clear information. Who is the author of this copy and paste????????????????

CadillacPat

#20 Harry P.

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:35 AM

I use the "cheap craft paints" all the time. Mainly for interiors and detail painting, but I have also painted bodies with them. Once they dry, they are not water soluble anymore, they won't "melt" if they get wet.