"Now just think what you can do with other more reliable, more user friendly paints that don't even cost more."
I know you are a HOK guy, a great product, but how can you compare a qt. of candy at $60-80, or 1oz. jars at $8 (not including reducers and catalyst), to $2.12 of Cheap Craft Paint (now known as CCP) and Nail Polish (NP)for enough to paint a model?
Okay, well you're way off on HOK prices, but there's more.
Actual prices for quarts of HOK Candy are much less than you stated,
Why would anyone suggest for modelers on this site to ever buy a quart of Candy? Most of these guys paint far less frequently than the need for quarts so answers about paint, coverage and cost neds to be factored into the amounts they can buy for just one kit.
Single ounces of OK by the 4 oz. botle work out to only $3 per and considering the richness of HK you can cut it twice, making ounces cost only a Buck and a few pennies for Reducer. So, your $8 figure is about $7 off.
A lot of things come in to play when recommending paints to someone, especially novices, and those who answer posts need to realize that.
I even ansswered that several can pitch in together to buy quarts (like the HOK online Co-Op I created) driving ginal prices of HOK ounces down to around 35 cents.
Is it becoming clear now how cheap great automotive paints like HOK can actually be had for. Then pile on the durability and ease of use and this is why I tell everyone they do not have to start at the bottom of the Paint Barrel.
They can start at the top making the possiblility of dissatisfication much less likely.
Lots of people quit Hobbies because their first attempts are a failure. My online Tutorials and replies are directed to give serious minded Hobbyists a nudge in the right direction or to help them become better than they already are.
Maybe what I'm missing is, are there two paints available from HOK? Is one a lacquer for the hobbiest and then the urethane for the automotive world, or is there just one line and people are thinning it with lacquer and getting away with it? I have to admit, the HOK line is one I've never messed with altering their product other than clearing it with another brand, so if other hardeners, reducers, thinners will work, I have no knowledge. But then again, even if you only need lacquer thinner to cut it, it's still much more expensive percentage wise than to go CCP/ NP.
I don't know where you are getting your HOK info but in short NO. HOK is a 2 part Automotive Urethane Enamel.
And, that whole thinning HOK with Lacquer thing is something I don't recommend. Yes, people can get away with it, until it comes back to bite them in the middle of a fine paintjob.
I don't recommend novices to stray away from the HOK system.
I did buy a bunch of HOK at NNL East, but have yet to even open them. they were 1 oz. jars, marked down 50% and I paid $4 or 5 each. Even at this price, CCP is still much cheaper.
That's that old stuff from Black Gold out of Arlington Texas.
Good luck on what is really in those jars and even more good luck on their shelf life. Always know your product.
Of course, as you say, CCP is cheaper, that is because it is a --------- cheap craft paint!!!!!!!
As for ease on a first time AB'er, yes the CCP is harder to spray due to the amount you have to thin it and the long amount of time for the water to flash off. I equate this to over thinning an enamel on a cold day and telling a newcomer, have at it.
Okay read that but I don't know what it means. I can't equate cheap craft paints with Enamels.
I think the average person who has taken the time to learn to use an airbrush and understand the properties of how the paint they are using, could in a matter of minutes get the hang of using CCP. I certainly didn't find it harder to spray, just different.
Now you're talking about experienced AirBrushers.
There is a big difference in experienced AirBrushers and guys who are asking for the first time.
Like I said above, experienced AirBrushers can bend the rules and cut corners, but, it's not a good idea to taeach new guys to start out that way.
As for reliable, who can say what is reliable and what is not in the dark magic of painting? Years ago, my S-10 was painted HOK Kandy Pink over Orion Silver, it failed miserably. after 8 months there was spots showing almost bare silver.
Man you lost me on that Dark Magic thing.
Well we all know that was not the HOK paint that failed but your Painter.
"The effort put forth to use these cheap acrylic paints is far more than user friendly Enamels and even cheap aerosols".
I actually found this method to be one of the easiest I've used yet to paint a model. The one thing I did like much better, the speed. If you use a hairdrier, it's dry almost immediately.
If you check out any of the AirBrushing Sites you will se time after time how new AirBrushers have such difficulty thinning water based paints. Everything from plain water to Windex is used causing great confusion for them. I try to always recommend products that are easy to use expecially for frst timers, so I stter them away from any craft paints.
The other thing I noticed, it goes on very thin and you lose very little detail. Clean up was a breeze, but then again after using an AB for as long as I have, I find it rediculous when people complain about cleaning one. A note to anyone reading this, if you spray water through your AB/Spraygun, always flush the water out with a little lacquer thinner.
People who will complain about cleaning their AirBrsh zare the same people who will cut corners.
The other benefit to CCP/NP is it's availability.
Man they sell cheap craft paints here in corner convenience stores,
I will definitely be using this method again in the future.