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AMT 1957 Corvette Gasser *New Project*


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#21 Jantrix

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 01:43 AM

I don't know what you guys keep complaining about with this kit. Display it with the hood flipped up and it's perfect. :lol: :D :lol: :D

I really appreciate your effort here Blue, keep at it.

Edited by Jantrix, 18 October 2012 - 01:43 AM.


#22 geordie

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 04:53 AM

Great job on the bodywork mods

#23 BluePopsicle

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 12:21 PM

Thanks Rob and David, I appreciate the the kind words. =)

Here's a little update. I added the trim on onto the car and frankly...I'm not really happy with it, but not sure what I can do about it. Tips and suggestions would be really helpful on this. (The gloss is the wet primer.)

Posted ImagePosted Image

#24 BluePopsicle

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 12:22 PM

I'm going to let it dry and take another look, but so far...I'm thinking I'd be better off just sanding it off and leaving the car without that trim.

#25 ll Brandon ll

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 12:33 PM

What did you do the line with, putty? I think it would come out alot sharper with either a small half round or round rod. It doesnt have a super sharp turn to it, so it shouldnt be that hard to do. The other thought I had was do a negative relief.. the inner round part of the trim you should do out of a piece of sheet styrene and then sand the edges slightly rounded off. I think that would look very innovative and badass. Just my 2c.

#26 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 12:48 PM

You were closer to getting it right without the trim, like you already said. Before the trim, the left side (driver's side) of the coves looked good, but the line didn't really flow right on the other side.

What I do when I'm trying to match body lines on separate panels is use real aluminum tape (the stuff I use is for emergency aircraft skin-repairs, but it's also sold for HVAC ductwork, and the thin stuff they sell in auto-parts stores will work pretty good) on the backside of the panels to keep them aligned while I file and sand and shape the two parts to match. Try to get continuous curves that don't flatten out in places. I know you can do it, because, like I said, before you put the trim on, the left side of the car looked really good. If you can hit it once, you can hit it again.

Another trick I use is to make a template from plastic or aluminum sheet with EXACTLY the curve I'm trying to get, and use it to keep checking my shaping-work. It also insures both sides come out the same.

This is a real bugger of a skill-builder, but keep at it and you'll be pleased in the end.

#27 BluePopsicle

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 01:25 PM

You were closer to getting it right without the trim, like you already said. Before the trim, the left side (driver's side) of the coves looked good, but the line didn't really flow right on the other side.

What I do when I'm trying to match body lines on separate panels is use real aluminum tape (the stuff I use is for emergency aircraft skin-repairs, but it's also sold for HVAC ductwork, and the thin stuff they sell in auto-parts stores will work pretty good) on the backside of the panels to keep them aligned while I file and sand and shape the two parts to match. Try to get continuous curves that don't flatten out in places. I know you can do it, because, like I said, before you put the trim on, the left side of the car looked really good. If you can hit it once, you can hit it again.

Another trick I use is to make a template from plastic or aluminum sheet with EXACTLY the curve I'm trying to get, and use it to keep checking my shaping-work. It also insures both sides come out the same.

This is a real bugger of a skill-builder, but keep at it and you'll be pleased in the end.


Is this tape the same as medal repair tape?

#28 BluePopsicle

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 01:29 PM

What did you do the line with, putty? I think it would come out alot sharper with either a small half round or round rod. It doesnt have a super sharp turn to it, so it shouldnt be that hard to do. The other thought I had was do a negative relief.. the inner round part of the trim you should do out of a piece of sheet styrene and then sand the edges slightly rounded off. I think that would look very innovative and badass. Just my 2c.


Brandon, I used .020" round rod. I created a cardboard template but that didn't work out well.

Edited by BluePopsicle, 18 October 2012 - 01:35 PM.


#29 ll Brandon ll

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 02:07 PM

I see. Then I have no ideas.

#30 sak

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:56 PM

Whatever you are using for that molding. Only use straight pieces and only put bends in it where it needs to be bent. Find some kind of tubing the same size as that curve and bend it around that. Glue that first and then work your way to the front of that car glueing a bit at a time. But would strip it right down to plastic and do that first because the glue won't stick to paint as well as plastic. And use liquid plastic cement. The glue you used looks a little gooey.

#31 Road Runner 79

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 06:26 PM

Jon I used round rod and Testor red label liquid cement for my grill trim .I used a little super glue at the start to hold it in place.Use one piece to do the whole thing ,them after it dries go back and cut the door lines back in.Use a straight edge to line it up while the glue is still wet I did the peak down the hood the same way and puttied it in later .Hope that helps some :)
Posted Image

Edited by Road Runner 79, 18 October 2012 - 06:26 PM.


#32 VW Dave

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 06:41 PM

I'm impressed by the amount of work you're doing making that ill-fitting kit into a nice model - my grandfather used to call that 'making chicken salad out of chicken....(well, you know).' I'd say remove the trim strips, as it's a hot rod anyway.



pro street........its like a street legal race car. huge engine, huge rear tires, roll bar.ect ect.......


The pro street trend/movement was actually started to emulate the pro/stock drag cars, and those huge rear tires need to be within the stock body width; a narrowed rear end is a must. Roll bars and engine size on a street car, unlike the drag cars, are entirely up to the builder. A few builders even did up FWD cars as pro streeters, while maintaining the original FWD drivetrain.

#33 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 01:42 AM

Jeff and Pat, I thank you for the tips and will seriously take them into consideration.

Dave, I appreciate the comment. What my plan is for this car is to make it sort of a custom Sunday cruiser type of car. It's a car you leave in your garage and only drive it once in a great while. I was even considering purchasing a model of the 2012 Corvette just to steal the engine. lol

#34 Jantrix

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 01:55 AM

Okay my idea is this. Tape the fenders to the body REAL well. Nice and tight with the sides perfectly aligned. Then add the round stock in one continuous piece. Be careful not to get glue in the door crease doing this. This will keep you from having alignment issues. Use super glue. Tack the beginning and wait a couple minutes for it to set. This way you can pull lightly against it to keep the lines straight to the next glue point. After all is said and dried, cut the fenders away with a saw and do the same to separated the pieces over the door crease.

#35 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 03:14 AM

Okay my idea is this. Tape the fenders to the body REAL well. Nice and tight with the sides perfectly aligned. Then add the round stock in one continuous piece. Be careful not to get glue in the door crease doing this. This will keep you from having alignment issues. Use super glue. Tack the beginning and wait a couple minutes for it to set. This way you can pull lightly against it to keep the lines straight to the next glue point. After all is said and dried, cut the fenders away with a saw and do the same to separated the pieces over the door crease.


That's what I tried, but obviously didn't work out well. It's probably due to my shaky hands from drinking a gal. of coffee a day. Sooo... I have a new idea and I think I'm going to stick with it. First, I should tell you all that I sanded those nasty looking body lines off and saw that my body lines for the coves are slightly off and will need a little work. Second, I'm going to leave it at that. I'm sure all of you have seen the movie "Cars" from Disney/Pixar. Lightning McQueen was painted with the '57 Corvette scheme and he didn't have any trim around the coves. At this point, I think it will look better if I just do the body work and make the coves look perfect with sharp edges and just paint it with no trim.

Below are a couple pics of the sanded area around the coves. You can see that there is a little tweaking to do, but are, for the most part, straight.
Posted ImagePosted Image

Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

I hope you enjoy.
Jon



Edit: I forgot to mention that I'll do a little painted pin stripe where the trim would normally go.

Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 October 2012 - 03:17 AM.


#36 plowboy

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 03:31 AM

The best way to deal with that body is to just throw it in the trash and grab a body from the newer AMT '57 Corvette Street Machine (green on the box). Everything from the gasser kit will fit the AMT kit perfect. Just glue the hood down and cut it off as a unit in the same way the gasser is cut. Then put the gasser firewall in and add the windshield frame. It's that simple. I had some photos of a project that I later traded away. I'll see if I still have them. I'll also donate a body if you want.

#37 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 03:46 AM

The best way to deal with that body is to just throw it in the trash and grab a body from the newer AMT '57 Corvette Street Machine (green on the box). Everything from the gasser kit will fit the AMT kit perfect. Just glue the hood down and cut it off as a unit in the same way the gasser is cut. Then put the gasser firewall in and add the windshield frame. It's that simple. I had some photos of a project that I later traded away. I'll see if I still have them. I'll also donate a body if you want.


I truly appreciate the offer, but my goal with this kit is to make it work the way I got it. It's a challenge, but I'm up for it. =) I think it will only make me a better builder as I'm fairly new to the hobby.

#38 ll Brandon ll

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 04:58 AM

Jeff and Pat, I thank you for the tips and will seriously take them into consideration.

Dave, I appreciate the comment. What my plan is for this car is to make it sort of a custom Sunday cruiser type of car. It's a car you leave in your garage and only drive it once in a great while. I was even considering purchasing a model of the 2012 Corvette just to steal the engine. lol


If you mean the supercharged LS9, I am at this moment trying to find a good engine caster to make replicas of mine, its the one Im using in my Camaro. If you would like, I have a spare LS from an 2010 Camaro I could hook you up with.

#39 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 05:31 AM

If you mean the supercharged LS9, I am at this moment trying to find a good engine caster to make replicas of mine, its the one Im using in my Camaro. If you would like, I have a spare LS from an 2010 Camaro I could hook you up with.


I think what I'm looking for is the LS7 as pictured below. I did a Google search for the LS9 and it is sweet looking, but not quite the look i'm hoping for.
Posted Image

#40 dimebolt

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 05:44 AM

Cool project man.
Looks like you've gotten everything figured out.
Just take your time, and I'm sure you'll have a stand out build when you're done.
Corey