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1/24-25 hotrod garage diorama


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#181 vintagedragfan

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 01:26 AM

awesome stuff Richard!!!



#182 crazyrichard

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 03:17 AM

thnx thnx !!

i realised on these pics the plate on top is the wrong way round , so the holes are all centered perfect in the frame and not like on the previous pics :)



#183 David G.

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 05:45 AM

All you need now is a touch of atmospheric haze to add some depth and add to the realism.

 

David G.



#184 Hollywood Jim

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:19 AM

Super !!

 

Looks great !!!

 

.

.



#185 crazyrichard

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:35 AM

thnx guys and david what does that mean exactly ? like how you photograph it or ....??



made a new roofplate for now and just closed , i need to think more about the roof , so for now i did a simple closed plate

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then shot some outside pics when there was still a bit of daylight left , this shows the dio better in detail and colors then the usual evening pics i make

on one pic the roof frame looks collapsed but that happened because it didnt sit on the side ...

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Edited by crazyrichard, 26 March 2013 - 08:44 AM.


#186 crazyrichard

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:43 AM

All you need now is a touch of atmospheric haze to add some depth and add to the realism.
 
David G.


like this you mean ??

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smokey

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#187 David G.

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 02:51 PM

Yup, that's what I meant.  With a stronger or more direct light source light coming through the windows, you could achieve a "shafts of sunlight" effect.

 

Sort of like a late afternoon- end of the work day at the ol' shop.

 

Either way, it's still awesome work you do!

 

David G.



#188 crazyrichard

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 09:13 PM

Yup, that's what I meant.  With a stronger or more direct light source light coming through the windows, you could achieve a "shafts of sunlight" effect.
 
Sort of like a late afternoon- end of the work day at the ol' shop.
 
Either way, it's still awesome work you do!
 
David G.


what you mean can be achieved when the sun shines , sadly the last few weeks when the sun was out i was @ work :P



#189 Doobie

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 01:12 AM

WOW Richard those last few pics look so realistic like somone just reved up there hot rod  I love it well done I wish I had the skills to do somthing like that



#190 crazyrichard

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 02:33 AM

thnx !! and trust me just start and try .. its not only fun but sometime you have to start and just do it :)



#191 Aleks Padilla

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 11:15 AM

Richard this dio looks amazing!!! great detail, it looks like a real garage picture jejejeje



#192 crazyrichard

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 09:41 PM

thnx jose :)



#193 crazyrichard

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 09:04 AM

some pics with my new build :)
 
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Edited by crazyrichard, 29 March 2013 - 09:05 AM.


#194 crazyrichard

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 09:28 AM

just went up for sale , project was cancelled :blink:

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#195 southpier

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 10:56 AM

certainly well worth the hard work!



#196 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 08:18 PM

OK, let me just ask a couple questions. First of, do you ever video any of the work as you do it?  I would really like to wrap my mind around your weathering process, I just can not get that realism.

 

For the black washes, like those on your grease drums and several other items, what are you using?   I have tried several things, and unless I am applying most washes on a flat painted surface, they only pool up and do not "flow" out. I have tried several different things as well. Any suggested readings etc?  

 

In all honesty, your stuff looks so very real. You should indeed be very proud.



#197 crazyrichard

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:43 PM

mark :( i just typed like a massive story for you about the weathering that took me like 15 minutes and i hit reply , go to poor some coffee and its gone , not posted :( :o
man ... this really sucks , typed so much about my weathering ..
i will try to make a tut .. atm i'm like :(  :angry:  -_-  all that work and post is just gone :huh:

 

i will make  new sory sometimes but real quick , you know those cue tips you clean your ears with ?? buy a box of those ..

take black enamel paint and when apllyed stick a cue tip in your mouth turn it so the hairs are smooth / moist (not wet) and rub off the paint or rub it out how you want it ..

they have 2 sides so turn it around when saturated with paint and ...

but always make it moist and turn it in your mouth , otherwise the hairy stuff comes of into your paint)


Edited by crazyrichard, 29 March 2013 - 11:46 PM.


#198 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 03:58 PM

Thanks, that fact that you are indeed using enamel gets me going in the right directions. I have tried several things, some from the train section, pigments etc. I like the learning process, but hard to think I will ever rise to your level of art.   Great inspiration in your work sir. I thank you for effort to send that post, sorry your time was lost on it. :(


Edited by Modelbuilder Mark, 31 March 2013 - 03:58 PM.


#199 crazyrichard

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 09:55 PM

well new day and i will try again :lol:

 

so tbh i'm still learning myself and i also believe weathering is a case of having the guts to slap on some paint and just go for it .. and this is maybe the most important thing > i often think oh no this isnt what i have in mind but then press on with rubbing stuff of with a cloth , adding more layers and in the end it starts to look right

 

also in a dio i think its good to have a certain technique that you can aply on all theparts to keep the smae tones and feeling .. thats keeps it tied together

 

and like said all my weathering is just something i really learned myself in the last year , also i'm not really one to read tutorials , i got inspired by others here and just tried to get something going my own way

 

some things i think i can explain fairly simple

 

like adding aditional (fake) depth in dioramas

 

so enamels work best , first strarted with waterbased acrylic paint (tubes) but that doesnt stick as good in the creases as enamels ..

like said the cue tips are very handy .. in the garage if you look closely you see i also used black enamel along all the building parts and machines to create some fake schading ..

i used to make car renderings / chops and did that for many years and was pretty well known in that scene , stopped because of the modelbuild hobby ..

both take a lot of times because rendering also takes hours and hours of virtual building / drawing etc etc ...

in rendering you use a lot of shading and highlighting to resemble the real world and make it realistic .. of course our modelstuff is already real only on scale ..

this got me wondering and i took black enamel paint and llike along all the sticking out parts painted black lines ..

after painting a line richt away with a moist cue tip i rubbed of the paint , leaving a slight black line ..

so on everything in the dio i just did that , corners / along the standing beams / around the door and even along the benches / machines etc..

this creates some sort of extra depth in everything ..

now this only works i a more weathered environment :P

 

 

then some general weathering you asked about like on the oil cans you mentioned

 

that is really a technique i jus recently started to use very recently , like said i used acrylic paint and that sometimes just doesnt stick on smooth surfaces (unsanded)

so about one month ago i went to this big moddeling store and bought some enamel paints ..came home and found out that worked sooo good ..

i still need to go back and buy way more stuff ..

 

so the oil drums >>  after making the part i just took red enamel paint and painted it red by hand and after fiishing did a second layer right away ..

you can also spray parts but i ike to work fast and enamel dry's real quick , i just put it on the radiator at home turn up the heat a bit and after 10-12 minutes its dry ..

then i took black and first just with a tiny pensil brush / hand brush painted small black lines along the parts lines  like sticking out or inlayed parts / lines ..

and again with the cue tip wiped it off ..

doing that really leaves a flat and small black line instead of a painted thick line ..

 

and again the cue tips are super cheap , a box usually have a couple of hundred in them .. but before wiping put it in your mouth and turn it around so the hairs are smooth and the tip is slightly moist ..

sounds weird but does the trick .... making it wet in water isnt good it needs to be moist and not wet ...

 

then i just brushed on like how i think some oil soillings would run and again slightly rubbed of soem paint again so its not thick..

 

then and that really was cool i tried to aply some gloss brown wood stain over all of that , just a complete coat over all the red (only works on red paint)

that made the red more alive and the oil spills pop more ...

you could redo the black after the wood stain dryes so its more matt but oil isnt matt so...

now that wood stain story is only to show you can try so many weird things , the wood stain was in my shed / workplace and i use that around the house , put some in a small jar to use on the wood in my dio (also did that on the wood)

and just tried how that looked over red because its actually like a brown clear coat :P

 

for making rust i now use a base enamel rust colored paint , sometimes if you want some rust structure you can make that so easy ..

lets say you have a car body and its painted , just scribe away some paint with a hard iron pin untill you hit the underlayer of styrene again ,,

scribe like a shape that you want like a piece is rusted and chipped off ..

then take very rough sand paper and lie that on you worktable .. take a piece of styrene (i found the left over revell parts are perfect) and hold the sand paper down on the workbench and scibe the styrene part over the paper back and forward leaving sand residue on the paper ..

this styrene dust is very very fine and perfect for rust structure in our scale ..

then take brown enamel paint and paint the part you chipped with a brush and make sure its only in the cribed part or what you want rusted ...

trow a little bit of that styrene dust on the brown paint and blow away the rest by blowing it off ..

take like a old brush and open up the hairs so they are not like in a tip and softly tap in the mix of dust and paint you find you can spread it out or make the texture change how you like.

after that is all dry take lighter rust brown , now for that i still use waterbased acrylic paint because that doest make the first layer go soft again and ry brush a bit over the structured stuff , you can really try to get the lighter stuff on the structure leaving the deeper parts darker brown , creating depth

you can even play with some minour black ..

now that something i started to do last week on that mercedes lieferwagen thats in under glass at the light commercial and pick ups section .. there i did the whole body after screweing up the gloss paint on the bonnet..

and i wanted to try out rust structure and that was perfect for trying out ..

on a whole body sfter doing this you can even sand the effect down with fine sandpaper ...

 

but rust on machines i a dio i just do fairly quick and just aply some enamel paint over the painted part like in corners where i think rust would be and after that highlight it with lighter brown (rust) ..

 

didnt chip or texture anything in the dio yet

 

i'm sure there are even better techniques because sometimes here i see stuff that makes my stuff look like childsplay :lol:

 

i still want to try chipping / peeling paint myself with the hairspray technique m still dint do that myself



#200 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:39 AM

I know there are indeed more ways to one to reach a goal, and it is nice to have several options as you learn. My sincere thanks toy ou sir for sharing what you are doing.