Steven Kings CHRISTINE kit
Posted 22 October 2012 - 11:51 PM
Posted 23 October 2012 - 12:43 AM
Edited by Skydime, 23 October 2012 - 01:03 AM.
Posted 23 October 2012 - 02:24 AM
AMT could at least mold the slammer body in white and package it with the glue kit to allow us the option to combine if they won't retool the glue kit body
Posted 23 October 2012 - 07:19 AM
Most of the 1:1 Christine clones seem to use Plymouth's 1958 Toreador Red, which was available from the factory on the Belvedere, and was not metallic. I never could find a specific brand or name for the red used on the movie cars- I'm guessing they just grabbed the first off-the-shelf bright red paint the set designer's gopher picked up. All I found was information along the lines of 'the cars were painted red'... no mention of brand name, etc. And since all but a handful of the cars used in the movie were actually Belvederes (not Furies) it is possible a few were in fact painted in the factory Toreador Red.
Oddly, though, the signed trunklid in your picture does look like it is a metallic red. The cars in the movie and most of the clones don't appear to have a metallic finish. Huh...
I suppose it would be like a General Lee or an Enterprise model... use whatever shade of red looks right to you, naysayers be damned. Personally, I'd go for something that resembles '58 Toreador Red.
Posted 23 October 2012 - 11:25 AM
Okay, couple questions here. First off: If someone were to make a set of replacement side trim for the kit, would that go a long way towards fixing the kit? In other words would it make it easier if you could just sand the old trim off and glue the new on?
Jacen, as you can see from Jon's post, the ENTIRE body is wrong. Just replacing the trim wouldn't cut it as you still have the incorrect angle of the beltline, and then there's that funky looking roof to deal with (too low).
Now if one just wants a simple shelf model, then there's no problem as I've not heard of any difficulties in building the kit. I personally can't get past the bad body lines, since I was up close and personal with one that my Dad had many years ago (a '57).
Jon, one way to replace the trim if you wanted to go the Fury/Sport Trim route---------you can replace the chrome trim of course with Evergreen strip. To replace the gold anodizing (or silver) check out your local Michael's for Cake Decorating Foil. It comes in gold and silver, and has a very close if not exact pattern that would have been on the anodized trim. Make a pattern, trim it out, and glue it on with contact cement.
Posted 23 October 2012 - 03:49 PM
Posted 25 October 2012 - 05:28 AM
I liked building the kit, even though I ran into many self-made errors along the way. I may build another and try to make it a bit cleaner.
Edited by Merkur XR4Ti, 25 October 2012 - 05:29 AM.
Posted 25 October 2012 - 08:26 AM
Dude! Chill out! Bill was just trying to help out here. You don't need to freak out.
Bill, like 98% of the guys on this and other forums I am well aware of the widely talked about flaws in the body of this kit. HOWEVER, since you obviously didn't read or understand what I said in my reply to John i'll say it again.
Everyone has different lengths they are willing to go to don't they? So i'm aiming my question at the guys in between who don't want to reconfigure the whole dang body but would at least like the trim fixed. I was willing to go to the trouble of making a set of trim for the kit so builders could easily sand away the old and replace it easily, getting a car that would at least have good looking trim, thus drawing the eye away from the flawed fenders, quarter panels and roof and giving a better looking model without all the work of chopping and re-building. Not to mention that the car in the pictures John showed or any kit of anyone following suit is obviously in need of a set of trim. I swear i've never met such resistance just trying to help out! Obviously i'm dealing with the all-or-nothing set here so I won't be doing it for anyone but myself.
Posted 25 October 2012 - 10:31 AM
There's a miserable little contingent of modelers who nit-pick everything to death, never find anything positive, and truly justify the term "rivet-counter".
But there's an equally (if not MORE) miserable contingent who'd have you believe that there are WAAY many more of that first contingent than truly exist, who just mess themselves with sky-is-falling hysteria every time an imperfection is pointed out in a kit, or in a test shot that's obviously indicative of what's coming. And some of this crowd have slathered Bill with that broad "rivit-counter" (sic) brush, with an unfairness crossing clean over into farce.
Irony is, that second group is also very fond of pointing out how critics have no skillz - and I ain't yet seen a one offer proof Geary couldn't MURDER him build-to-build.
Edited by Chuck Kourouklis, 25 October 2012 - 12:21 PM.
Posted 25 October 2012 - 01:33 PM
Posted 25 October 2012 - 02:30 PM
This has been my favourite movie and book for years and years.
The car in the movie I believe was solid red not metallic.
Also mentioned earlier in this thread that in the book the car is a 58 Plymouth sedan (4 door), this is both correct and incorrect. At the start of the book it is referred to as a 2 door coupe, in the middle it's a sedan (when the hitch hiker opens the back door) and at the end it's a 2 door again. The reason for this is King wrote the middle of the book first, than came back later and wrote the beginning and end and had forgotten it was a sedan.
Cant wait to see it hopefully released.
Posted 25 October 2012 - 03:05 PM
Posted 25 October 2012 - 10:26 PM
Posted 26 October 2012 - 04:11 AM
But since this kit is coming back out, and there seems to be more than a little demand for the better-looking ex-JoHan body, maybe they could be convinced to reissue the kit or at least just the body if they get enough people asking about it. Just a thought...
Posted 26 October 2012 - 09:10 AM
Posted 26 October 2012 - 09:22 AM
While I'm assuming the Modelhaus body is based on an original Johan promo with the typical warp straightened, I've always been curious how they dealt with the fact that the acetate promo and friction bodies shrink overall. The warping is caused by the acetate shrinking more or less depending on the plastic's thickness, or the body's contour, in a given area.
Sorry if this is getting a little off-topic.
Edited by John Goschke, 26 October 2012 - 09:24 AM.
Posted 26 October 2012 - 09:23 AM
I would buy one.
Give me a couple days and i'll get with them about it. Maybe I can talk Don into a limited release.