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32 Ford Barron


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#1 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 05:15 PM

Started off with a 32 Ford from the Switchers kit, not a very good kit but it has some usable parts and was the body style I wanted to start with for this project.

The stance will be very low, channeled, likely airbag suspension. Very likely to use some parts from the 1/24 scale Red Baron kit like the rims, even tho the Red Barron kit is 1/24 the rims fit just fine into the 1/25 tires, we shall see how much, just bits tho.
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Here it is after the chop. I already got the top chopped, and although the rear window has the "mail slot" I actually like it that way for the project, and will not be opening it up any more. Instead of pie cutting and laying back the "A" pillars, I will be reshaping them.
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A little "Z" action
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Using a more modern mill, the Cobra Jet from the 69 Shelby Mustang kit, it has some great molded in linkage, but it was not opened up from the back side, so I carefully use a very small drill bit and new xacto blade and opened them up. These pictures did not turn out as good as I hoped, but if you look, you can see what I am talking about
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Edited by Modelbuilder Mark, 17 October 2012 - 05:28 PM.


#2 bryan_m

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 05:18 PM

nice work on that linkage mark! looks great

cheers
bryan

#3 crazyrichard

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 04:47 AM

nice !!
btw you got some cool partsboxes too i see !!!!!!!!!

#4 geordie

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 04:52 AM

Lot of promise on this build, nice chop and motor.

#5 H.A.K

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 11:17 AM

Nice chop.

#6 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 01:08 PM

[quote name='bryan_m' timestamp='1350530313' post='797158']
nice work on that linkage mark! looks great
cheers
bryan
[/quote]
Hey Bryan, I am still trying to dial in on your "Gunk" stuff! LOL Thanks for the kind words
[quote name='crazyrichard' timestamp='1350571667' post='797345']
nice !!
btw you got some cool partsboxes too i see !!!!!!!!!
[/quote]
yeah, I really like having those. Usually, as I part out a kit, I break them up into those bins. I also have several stackable tubs with the snap lids for large things like bodies, hoods, etc etc. It sure makes it easier to look for things. of course, I stll manage to have some model boxes of beaters etc.

Thanks for the compliments and encouragement guys, I appreciate it!
[quote name='H.A.K' timestamp='1350595026' post='797534']
Nice chop.
[/quote]
[quote name='geordie' timestamp='1350571950' post='797350']
Lot of promise on this build, nice chop and motor.
[/quote]

#7 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 10:39 PM

OK, after finishing up some other stuff, I am back at this one.

I took a parts box front end, and cut the spring from the top, and re-mounnted to the back of the axle, also added some bolt head detail.Posted Image
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Scratched up a front spring hanger, still needs top drilled for bolt heads
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Front wheels an online friend traded me, not sure the kit source but they were molded in green.
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And, the likely rear rims. I am about 92.3% sure these will be the ones, one other possible option, but since this is using a few pieces and decals from the Red Baron, I am also borrowing the name somewhat as well, with the "Ford Baron". Even tho the Red Baron kit is 1/24, these rim fit into the AMT pie-crust slicks.
Posted Image

#8 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 06:28 AM

Looking forward to more progress on this one, so far so good.

#9 DrKerry

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 07:09 AM

Lookin good so far!!!!!

#10 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:11 AM

Looking forward to more progress on this one, so far so good.

Lookin good so far!!!!!


Thanks guys!
To be honest, part of the problem I have on projects like this, is I want them more detailed then my mechanical knowledge and finger function will always allow, so often it take me what seems like ages to fabricate a piece. LOL I want it to look realistic, but plead guilty to liking cars far more than I would ever consider myself a mechanic, so often I have to refer to 1:1 vehicles or the web etc, to see how something should be put together or function.

For example, on this one, I am already struggling with how I will go about fabricating the floor after the body is dropped over the frame.

Edited by Modelbuilder Mark, 25 November 2012 - 08:12 AM.


#11 mountaindewd

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:22 AM

Just an idea. You might be able to take the kit floor pan, cut it at the same point you did the frame, raise the back half and add a connector piece. More or less, z'd like the frame was. You may have to do some adjusting to the pan to fit it inside the body.

Edited by mountaindewd, 25 November 2012 - 08:23 AM.


#12 Gluhead

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:26 AM

Cool start, Mark.

Nothing wrong with liking cars more than knowing them inside and out! That's why they invented the internubs...so's we kin lookit pikshures. :P

The floor thing won't be too bad, once you get the body able to sit where you want it over the frame. Mock it up and use the frame as your guide to draw lines on the inside of the body (I actually keep an old pencil lead in a brass tube that I grab with tweezers for this, so that my marks are not skewed out of position by the bulk of a pencil or awkward angle...I'm sure you know what I mean!). If you give yourself a slight ledge with some strip or rod, above the marked line by the thickness of your floor material, it'll make life a lot easier having it to register to the same exact location every time you pull the floor out to fine tune its shape. I do them flat, first, then add whatever kickup is needed at the firewall, then tunnels and any other shapes that it needs. It's usually pretty stable by then, and you can just go back and trim out whatever you don't need anymore from the flat stock.

Hope that helps. I'm on meds so it may just make it more confusing! :D

#13 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:44 AM

Just an idea. You might be able to take the kit floor pan, cut it at the same point you did the frame, raise the back half and add a connector piece. More or less, z'd like the frame was. You may have to do some adjusting to the pan to fit it inside the body.

Cool start, Mark.

Nothing wrong with liking cars more than knowing them inside and out! That's why they invented the internubs...so's we kin lookit pikshures. :P

The floor thing won't be too bad, once you get the body able to sit where you want it over the frame. Mock it up and use the frame as your guide to draw lines on the inside of the body (I actually keep an old pencil lead in a brass tube that I grab with tweezers for this, so that my marks are not skewed out of position by the bulk of a pencil or awkward angle...I'm sure you know what I mean!). If you give yourself a slight ledge with some strip or rod, above the marked line by the thickness of your floor material, it'll make life a lot easier having it to register to the same exact location every time you pull the floor out to fine tune its shape. I do them flat, first, then add whatever kickup is needed at the firewall, then tunnels and any other shapes that it needs. It's usually pretty stable by then, and you can just go back and trim out whatever you don't need anymore from the flat stock.

Hope that helps. I'm on meds so it may just make it more confusing! :D


Thanks guys!
Hey Les, I thought about that, but there was no real tub for this one. This one was from the switchers and there was the frame, then a fender set. Now... there is a tub in the convert body that was included, I will have to look to see.

Glu, that is kinda what I have been doing. I started by putting a floor on the top area of what I have already done on the frame, then I was going to add the remaining floor lower than the frame on the sides. I used to have one of those tools that a carpenter would use to copy a contour, (forget the name) but it fell apart years ago and I never replaced it. At this point, all remaining floorboard work is on hold until I get the chassis up on it's feet.

#14 Gluhead

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:51 AM

I started by putting a floor on the top area of what I have already done on the frame, then I was going to add the remaining floor lower than the frame on the sides.

That works, too!

#15 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:59 AM

Contour gauge!!! I recall now! LOL This is what it looks like
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Edited by Modelbuilder Mark, 25 November 2012 - 09:00 AM.


#16 Steven Zimmerman

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 09:57 AM

Go out and buy TWO of these, they are relatively cheap....Use one for a contour gage, take the other one apart for the BIG bunch of steel rods, for scratchbuilding;pinning frames and parts, applying superglue or accelerator, and myriads of other uses.....'Z'

#17 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 12:36 PM

Hey Steve, I need to do that. Sears or Harbor Freight should have them, I need to check.

#18 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 12:15 PM

OK, back to bench on this one, I think I have the floor pan issue resolved.

med_gallery_8985_914_513898.jpg

 

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And I also got the kit windshield fram and glass cut down

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#19 southpier

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 01:14 PM

you've got plenty of company here!   but i believe it better to take some time and learn rather than throw something together and say "good enough"

 

 



....I want them more detailed then my mechanical knowledge and finger function will always allow, so often it take me what seems like ages to fabricate a piece. ....often I have to refer to 1:1 vehicles or the web etc, to see how something should be put together or function.....



#20 southpier

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 01:17 PM


....use the frame as your guide to draw lines on the inside of the body (I actually keep an old pencil lead in a brass tube that I grab with tweezers for this, so that my marks are not skewed out of position by the bulk of a pencil ....  give yourself a slight ledge with some strip or rod, above the marked line by the thickness of your floor material, it'll make life a lot easier having it to register to the same exact location every time ....

 

 

good tip; thanks