87 replies to this topic

[dougp]

Now the first mock up of the hood, cab and bed together on the shortened frame.









With frame shortened and aligned I can start on the hood hinges. Once I get them in place I can make the vertical cuts on the lower fenders for the tilt hood.

Work has started on the rear roll pan. I filled in the area with strip styrene. Once it dries I will use some fine strip styrene to fill the gaps and shape the end caps. I haven’t decided on a bumper yet. I’ve seen a lot 1:1s use just the frame end cap and some with custom bumpers. Either way a trailer hitch will be added.



Thanks for looking...

[crazyrichard]

nice job, starting to come together great !!!!!!

[clavender17]

Looks good !!I need to get back to building my lifted Chevy!!!

[Fat Brian]

On our work trucks the pintle mounts on the frame end cap, for lighter duty applications than ours you can get a combination hitch that combines a ball and pintle and mounts to a flat plate like you have there.

Edited by Fat Brian, 20 November 2012 - 06:54 AM.

[dougp]

Update 11/23/12

Everything finally seems to be coming together. With everything in place and aligned I started built the hinges for the tilting hood. I attached two small pieces of strip styrene to the front frame rails to support the tube styrene for the hinges. I attached a length of tube styrene to the front frame rails and supports.



Next I reattached and aligned the hood and cab to the frame. I used Plastruck liquid weld to attach each end of the tube styrene to the leading edge of the hood. Using a piece of scrap styrene as reinforcement I welded the center section of the tube styrene to the leading edge of the hood.



I let the assembly set up for several hours and then cut tube styrene on each side of the center reinforcement. I inserted a piece of styrene rod through the cut tube assembly. I made the vertical cuts in the lower fenders and the hood tilts forward like the 1:1.

[dougp]

Next I started on what I call the fender spats seen on the 1:1. I used a couple of pieces of strip styrene for the basic shape and attachment.







The spats where shaped and fender line added with the use of a file and sanding stick.





Next challenge is finding a radiator with a shroud that looks like the 1:2. Next will be locating it on the frame. Right now my plans are to place it between the hood hinge supports. Once I have it place I can set the engine between the frame rails and work on the final shape of the firewall.

Thanks for looking...

Edited by dougp, 23 November 2012 - 05:22 PM.

[hooknladderno1]

Great work with the hood, hinges, and "spats"! Nice clean building and the patience to stop and document each step. I love watching the progression of projects like this.

[backyardinc]

Wow , im super inspired man !!!! Looking great !!!!

[dougp]

Update 12/03/12

 

The work continues, but a little slower this last week. I’m trying to spend more time on the 71 Daytona, my other wip. The water pump was modified to try and match the 1:1. From pics of the 1:1 engine and water pumps the pump has been elongated so the pulley/fan assembly is centered within the radiator/shroud. I used strip styrene to extend the pump and several parts box pulleys for the pulley/fan and crankshaft pulley assemblies. I also had to fab up a taller thermostat housing. The 1:1’s also appear to have a 2 into 1 configuration. So two different sizes of styrene rod were used to make the housing.

 

 

 

I lucked out and found a fan and radiator/shroud in the parts box that fit perfectly. The radiator/shroud assembly was mounted to the frame rails using white glue for the mock up. Ultimately I’ll use styrene channel to build the bracing and frame around the radiator like the 1:1.  The engine was aligned and the location marked on the frame rails for the engine mount locations. The mounts were made and glued to the rails. With  the engine finally in place the mod made to the water pump centered the fan in the radiator shroud.

 

 

 

 

I’ve also started work on adding firewall detail. Holes were drilled for pinning the master cylinder, power distribution box and washer fluid reservoir. The rubber firewall seal for the steering column was cut from the Ford Louisville steering column. It was glued to the firewall and drilled out to accept the new steering column.

 

Next the work on the under hood components and drive accessories has started. The master cylinder was made from a parts box unit with the help from some styrene rod. The power steering unit was made from a flat head v8 generator, parts box pulley and styrene rod and channel. The wire is used to pin the units to their respective mounting points for reinforcement. The alternator is another parts box piece and is currently in the purple pond being de-chromed. 

 

 

Thanks for looking and enjoy.

[george 53]

Actually Doug, since there IS NO REAL equivalent of this bad boy, your doin pretty good ,in MY book! I LOVE ta see guys cuttin up plastic to create NEW not made models! This bad boy is commin out REALLY cool! And THANKS for the tute, caz there might be a few of these rascals on the contest tables thanks to you, it's SO cool! GREAT job bro. PULEEEEZE don't stop now!!!!!!

[Danno]

Looking very good!

 

 

[txdieseldog]

Doug, I don't want to pick at this because you are doing an awesome job! However, my only concern would be: isn't the roof-line on the Top Kick a little higher? It seems to me that the windshield is taller. I see you have primered and there comes a time to stop messing with what you have already accomplished. I will for sure understand if that's where your at with it.

[dougp]

Actually Doug, since there IS NO REAL equivalent of this bad boy, your doin pretty good ,in MY book! I LOVE ta see guys cuttin up plastic to create NEW not made models! This bad boy is commin out REALLY cool! And THANKS for the tute, caz there might be a few of these rascals on the contest tables thanks to you, it's SO cool! GREAT job bro. PULEEEEZE don't stop now!!!!!!

 

 

Doug, I don't want to pick at this because you are doing an awesome job! However, my only concern would be: isn't the roof-line on the Top Kick a little higher? It seems to me that the windshield is taller. I see you have primered and there comes a time to stop messing with what you have already accomplished. I will for sure understand if that's where your at with it.

 

Thanks for the comments and concerns. I've have over 100 pics of various commercial and custom Topkicks I've gotten off the web for my inspiration.  As to the cab height and engine compartment here are couple of 1:1's for comparison. Also my camera creates a fish eye view when I take really close up pics so it distorts the actual dimensions of the build.

 

One of my favorites

 

 

and one of the cleanest Topkick engine compartments I've found

 

[txdieseldog]

Doug, thanks for the cool looking 1:1 to set me straight. I'm sure there are several different body styles to go with the different weight classes, so.....happy building. Keep up the good work.

[fredo84]

Neat Work !! Love It !

[dougp]

Update 12/29/12

 

Just a quick update, not much getting done during the holidays. Anyway I’ve completed the exhaust manifolds, master cylinder and starter. I used parts box pieces to make the power distribution box, windshield washer fluid reservoir and air cleaner. The coolant reservoir and windshield wiper motor were scratch built from rod and sheet styrene.

 

 

The radiator frame and supports were made from channel styrene.

 

 

The engine is almost complete. The power steering reservoir and alternator were attached with scratch built brackets and push pins. The drive belts and fan attached. The TBI was made by removing the float bowls from a Holley dominator carb and using rod styrene to add details. An oil filler tube was made with rod and tube styrene. The HEI distributor was provided by MAD.

 

 

 

 

Test fit of engine with distributor installed.

 

 

Fuel tank cut from promo Silverado undercarriage and filled with strip styrene. Tank will be shaped and fitted to the underside of the bed above the frame rails.

 

 

Cab with it’s first primer coat. The finish looks great with only a couple on imperfections to fix.

 

 

Planning to continue preparing the cab, hood, bed and frame for paint. I need to decide on a paint scheme so I can start work on the interior. Thanks for looking...

[outragis]

what was the topkick cab from?

great job btw!

[dougp]

what was the topkick cab from?

great job btw!

 

A Chevy Silverado promo kit was used as a donor for the cab, bed and interior. I got lucky and found one cheap on ebay.

[outragis]

sorry, I meant the nose...

[dougp]

From a DG Productions promotional bank like this one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item27ce585ad7

 

Again I lucked out, a seller on ebay was selling the cab only for $4. I just cut the front clip off the Silverado and the hood off the Topkick and mated them together.

Edited by dougp, 30 December 2012 - 05:29 PM.