195 replies to this topic

[Alyn]

Thanks for the compliment, Art

 

Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays. My week off is almost over and I certainly don't have much 25 Model-T building to show for it.

 

Here's what I do have. This build is broken down into several sub-assemblies; the tub, top, bed, wrecker boom, fenders, engine & chassis.I'm trying to get the fabrication work done on each one before getting into any paint. Not even primer unless it's needed for the fabrication. The wrecker boom is pretty much complete. I wanted to wrap up the bed as well, so I needed to address the tailgate.

 

I soldered a short piece of brass tube to some sheet brass and fastened that to the rear of the bed.

 

 

For the other half of the hinge, two strips of brass were fitted the the tailgate. Each strip has a small section of tube soldered to the lower end. A thin brass rod slides through all the tubing to create the hinge. You can see the rivets on the right hand strap, but this may change to bolts.

 

 

A chain supports the tailgate in the open position

 

 

In the closed position, the hook is used to keep the tailgate up.

 

 

That finishes the fab work on the bed. The radiator also got some attention. In all the research photos, there's a large tank at the upper rear of the radiator, so I used some styrene strips to add that to the kit piece. The tank as pictured isn't finished. It will get a rear panel to finish it off.

 

[Danno]

Nice.

 

[rmvw guy]

Very impressive work on this one Atyn, you've got me hooked.

[Shardik]

I've been following this build (quietly), and I must say your attention to detail is inspiring.  Also, I like the way you work; treating each sub assembly as a model in itself.  The results of this approach are clearly a superior whole.

Thanks for the eye candy and inspiration.

[Custom Mike]

Go Alyn go! Each update is just another reminder of just how good you really are, I am glad I don't have to compete against you at any contests!

[Alyn]

Thank you all for your interest.

 

Johann, comments like yours are inspiring as well. I appreciate the sentiment.

 

Here's a little detail you might enjoy. I just finished (for the third time) the radiator cap tonight. Not actually finished, but close. The first attempt consisted of a base made from 3/32" brass rod roughly 1/8" high. The center of this piece was narrowed with jewelers files with one end being the base and the opposite end a platform for the wings and site glass. I filed some flats into the site glass end to create a hex shape and then filed a groove across the top to provide a firm seat for the wing. The wing is simply a small diameter brass rod with each end curved and filed to a flattened point. The site glass "was" a sliver of 3/32" brass tubing set up on it's edge.

 

After several attempts trying to keep these three pieces in alignment while I soldered, I lost the site glass part. I built another one and went through several more attempts to get everything in alignment. Once the pieces were finally together, I filed away the excess solder and the followed up with fine sandpaper, finer sandpaper, Dupont rubbing compound and then metal polish. When it was almost finished, the site glass part broke off and commenced to play hide-and-seek on my cement floor. It won

 

I gave up on the three piece design. The new version consisted of a base of 3/32" brass rod. The site glass and wings were created as one piece by bending a loop in the small diameter rod with the ends of the loop crossing over and extending to each side to serve as the wings. This was easier to solder into position. The downside of both designs is that the solder covered up all the work I did to create the hex top.

 

Here's how it sits now. I can see in the picture that some more filing is in order. This will then have to be followed up with another round of sanding and polishing. I will also be shaping and polishing a piece of clear styrene to fit into the center of the brass loop (site glass).

 

Pretty simple update, but it was a lot of effort for such a small part.

 

Mock-Up:

 

[charlie8575]

That radiator cap is very cool, Alyn. I can't solder well at all, and haven't worked much with metal, but that's well done.

 

For the sight-glass, perhaps you could use something like white glue or epoxy in the middle?

 

Charlie Larkin

[crazyrichard]

geting coller and cooler , the details are stunning

[vintagedragfan]

looks like you have been busy Alyn, those are some very nice details! this thing is going to be awesome to say the least!! incredible work bro!

[Shardik]

Your "Saga of the Sight Glass" is a familiar tale to most of us; just as hours of meticulous labor are coming to fruition, the last step goes south and you have to start all over again . (it took me four tries to fabricate and install a piano hinge on my '37 Ford)

Looks like your perseverance paid off nicely.  I second Charlies recommendation, and  would add Micro Kristal Klear (sp?) to the list.

[SirIncognito]

That is some serious crazy work you have done I am very impressed

[Alyn]

Thanks, guys. Mike, sorry I didn't catch you comment on the last go round. Thanks for the compliment, but remember, Bill ("Billuminum") Davis and many other seriously excellent builders (John Smiley comes to mind) haunt the Midwest area.

 

Got some work done on the engine. I was wrong earlier with the "7 parts" statement. This engine only has 6. So far, I've added around 30 with plenty more to go.

 

The kit 4-banger doesn't have a starter motor. Some of the real Model-T's had starters and generators and some didn't. I scratch built both from styrene rod. Here's the starter. It's a pretty basic piece:

 

 

The kit motor has the lower radiator coolant tube molded into the side of the block. Not very realistic to say the least. I ground most of it away with a Dremel tool, and then used a #11 blade to carve the front cylinders back into reasonable shape. After filing the output elbow, a rod was inserted to help align the new brass coolant tube that will take it's place. You can also see the extensions on the front of the motor to accommodate a fan belt and the bosses on the transmission where the pedals will attach. They need some further trimming.

 

 

On the other side, I added a generator; another simple collection of styrene rods, and what I assume is an oiling assembly in front of it (with cap).

 

 

for a final installment, here's another attempt at the tailgate rivets. I found some brass brads that had a head diameter slightly smaller than the brass plated straight pins. These looked reasonable to me, so they were shortened and super glued in place.

 

 

Regarding the site glass for the radiator cap, I've already carved up a chunk of clear sprue to a rough fit. With a little more work and maybe a dip in Future, it should look pretty good.

Edited by Alyn, 01 January 2013 - 01:04 PM.

[Custom Mike]

Alyn, I spent a good chunk of this morning drooling over Bill's Aluminum Hemi, I want to know what's in the water out there, all of you guys are just sick...maybe I should have stayed in the Midwest. Nah, I like warm weather and the beach too much!

[vintagedragfan]

we are all wanting to see some progress Alyn! lets get to the bench!!

[Tom Geiger]

Argh! I know how you feel about that radiator cap. Detail like that is like trying to neuter gnats!  

Edited by Tom Geiger, 05 January 2013 - 06:03 PM.

[Alyn]

I've been trying to concentrate on cleaning my basement lately, but have managed a bit of bench time. Most of this has been concentrated on the engine & tranny.

 

These shafts will support the pedals; low-neutral-high, reverse & brake. I drilled out the mounting holes on the tranny cover plate as well for some added detail.

 

 

Pedals are made from brass; 3/64" round tube and 1/64" by 1/32" flat bar soldered together.

 

 

Here's how they mount on the side of the transmission. You can see that the center shaft needs some trimming. Actually, all three need trimming to help narrow down the whole assembly.

 

 

Each one is bent differently to line up correctly as they extend up through the floor. I had originally planned on making the foot pads on each pedal out of brass, but have since decided to use styrene. This will eliminate the need for more soldering heat that could affect the existing joints.

 

 

Here's some work on the manifold. The exhaust and intake manifolds don't bolt directly to the side of the block. They are held in place by a series of "T" clamps which are not molded into the AMT part. I added these using some Evergreen half-round rod and miniature hex bolts. There should be a fourth one in the rear, but there's no section of exhaust manifold in that area to support it. The upper and lower (exhaust/intake) sections of the manifold had to be cut into pieces and reassembled closer together to accommodate these clamps.

 

 

You can also see some work done to the head. The top radiator hose and outlet are grossly unrealistic. It reminded me of the turkey neck from our Thanksgiving dinner. It,was cut off, and a flange was glued in its place. This will be followed by a new radiator hose. There's not much room for this with the engine and radiator mounted in place, but I'll come up with something. The red putty is covering up a pin mark. AMT could not have found a worse place to put it. Very difficult to get to with all the surrounding bolt detail.

 

[Custom Mike]

Alyn, your work is just amazing, I wouldn't even consider going that far, but you do it regularly. Keep at it, I'll be over here drooling and mumbling in the corner some more...

[Alyn]

Alyn, your work is just amazing, I wouldn't even consider going that far, but you do it regularly. Keep at it, I'll be over here drooling and mumbling in the corner some more...

Thanks, Mike.

 

I think you hit upon it; "going that far". I think a good job is dependent on the willingness to spend the time. Every bit as important as talent or skill.

 

You sir, have the same affliction

[Danno]

Exceptional!!! 

 

 

[Alyn]

Thanks, Dan. Your interest and comments are always appreciated.