196 replies to this topic

[Alyn]

don't forget the 2 radius arms that go from the out side edges of the front axle that come back and tie into the bell housing.

 

Thanks, Derick. I'm holding off on the "wishbone" until the engine is in permanently as the rear attaches to the bottom just in front of the bell housing. I've trimmed the old, molded in drag link and tie rod off it, but still need to paint.

 

Joe, after all the research, I'm starting to appreciate the magic of the Model-T more and more myself. It's a pretty unique car with tons of character.

 

Here's the latest update on the build.

 

This is a shot of the 1:1 muffler with the unusual outlet.

 

 

The kit supplied part had a short tailpipe extending from the rear of the muffler. Here's my scratch built replacement.

 

 

another angle showing the riveted seam.

 

 

Here's a shot of the kit supplied steering column; somewhat of a blob part.

 

 

my scratch built upgrade

 

 

The column consists of an aluminum tube with a brass steering shaft inside. At the bottom, the pitman arm is soldered to the end of the brass shaft. At the top, a short section of brass tube is soldered to the shaft. With parts soldered on both ends, the shaft is captured in the aluminum tube, but turns freely. Throttle and spark control rods and levers are .020" brass rod held in position by a brass spacer at the lower end, and a styrene block at the steering wheel end. Once the aluminum tube column is glued in place, the steering wheel will be attached to the top end and will operate the pitman arm below the steering box.

 

[southpier]

keeps getting better!

 

rather than ask a bazillion questions, i'm just going to "stay tuned"

[Gluhead]

How'd I miss this? Great stuff, Alyn.

[Custom Mike]

Between you and Bill, you're making me want to move out to Kansas and just watch the two of you work on your masterpieces......awesome work buddy!

[exesivefire]

Amazing detail

[Danno]

Beautiful, Alyn!!!

[the4thlord]

One of the Most Spectacular builds i have ever seen.... i'm already a huge fan!

[vintagedragfan]

oh that is some great stuff Alyn, I can't wait to see this in person, all ways enjoy slobbering on your builds!

[crazyrichard]

awsome details again ....whow

[DPink]

Very clever idea with the hook for the tailgate. And I think the bed and side rails look fine the way they are. They have that real nice oldschool look to them

[Alyn]

Thanks for stopping by again, Joe. Glad you're going to stay tuned

 

Chris, having seen your icon before, I figured you'd drop by, thanks.

 

Mike, unfortunately (for him), Bill lives in Missouri, not Kansas. You know Missouri; the state with higher murder rate, higher unemployment, higher cost of living, and no Jay-Hawks!

 

Appreciate your interest and the nice comment, Andy

 

Thanks, Dan. If you keep coming around, I may have to start feeding you

 

Gaurav, I've seen some pretty cool examples of the Model T including one scratch built entirely of brass, so I wouldn't classify mine as Spectacular, but I do appreciate the sentiment.

 

Bill, you slobbered on my quickie promo build, and Ellis said you slobbered on his shoes. We need to have you checked out!

 

Thanks again, Richard. Keep it up, the checks in the mail

 

Thanks for the compliment, Dan. By the way, the tailgate hook isn't an original. That's how they were back in the day. Since posting, I snipped a little off the hook and re-bent it to make it a bit smaller.

 

Here's the latest progress. I covered the gas tank in .005" aluminum with some simulated rivets, and then added the brass hold-down straps. The gas cap is made from a couple of different diameters of styrene rod with ears made from flat styrene.

 

 

I cut the tank out of the seat bottom so I could use it for some chassis photo's. The real tank would have a round bottom as well, but I wanted this part to fit back into the seat where it came from so I left it flat. As you can see, the chassis is almost done.

 

[crazyrichard]

awsome , and the battery with clamps looks awsome in the chassis !

[southpier]

 

this is from post #24. did you grind the hood sides thinner in order to open the louvers? it makes a nice detail.

 

also, i have found the early Ford catalog from Mac's to be a helpful reference.

 

http://macsautoparts...mid/MDT/ca/128/

Edited by southpier, 01 March 2013 - 04:28 AM.

[vintagedragfan]

outstanding as all ways Alyn, just gorgeous work my friend!

[Alyn]

Thanks, Richard. I only wish the battery detail would still be visible once the body is in place. No such luck.

 

Thanks for the link, Joe. I think I may have stumbled upon that sight while looking for some rear fender detail.Great reference. Lots of detail there.

 

Regarding your hood louver question, I didn't thin the hood panel, although I did consider doing so. What I did do was to cut into the louver openings on an angle so that the cut would help thin the louver edge. I then spent considerable time cleaning up each cut with saws, files and sandpaper to make them look as even as possible.

 

BIll, always appreciate your blessings, almost as much as I enjoy studying your own updates. Thanks the stopping by.

[Eshaver]

Thanks, Richard. I only wish the battery detail would still be visible once the body is in place. No such luck.
 
Thanks for the link, Joe. I think I may have stumbled upon that sight while looking for some rear fender detail.Great reference. Lots of detail there.
 
Regarding your hood louver question, I didn't thin the hood panel, although I did consider doing so. What I did do was to cut into the louver openings on an angle so that the cut would help thin the louver edge. I then spent considerable time cleaning up each cut with saws, files and sandpaper to make them look as even as possible.
 
BIll, always appreciate your blessings, almost as much as I enjoy studying your own updates. Thanks the stopping by.

Now that's a GOOD trick. Most times the blade would slip causing considerable damage !

[Alyn]

Thanks, Ed. I was lucky and only had one slip that amounted to much; a small scratch that was easy to fill with glazing putty and primer. Looking at it now, it would have been easy and wise to run a layer or two of masking tape above and below the louvers while cutting them open. That would catch a "blade gone wild" to minimize the damage.

[Randy D]

Hi Alyn,   Every time I look-in I leave more impressed!!!      Those contol levers are too cool,  beautiful work.

 

 

 

                 Randy

[Alyn]

Much thanks, Randy, As always, your interest and comments are highly valued.

[Alyn]

slow but sure progress. I've been practicing with some scrap sprue on a technique to get a wood grain effect on the wheels. Not ready for prime time yet. My wife says the practice bits looks like a pretzel.

 

The seat is painted. I like the way the back rest turned out, but may have overdone the bottom cushion. Besides creating the look of the black leather dye wearing off, I also wanted to duplicate some leather age cracking. It looks pretty good to the naked eye, but no so much under the camera lens. It may get repainted if I can't tone it down a bit.

 

 

 

The battery and starter cable and battery ground strap, exhaust, pedals, etc are fixed in their final position. I know the cable doesn't go directly from the battery to the starter; in the Model-T, it routes up to the starter switch on the dash. Once the body is on, only the cable connected to the starter will be seen.