5 replies to this topic

[hooknladderno1]

Question for those of you that work with diecast. I recently bought a 1/25 scale diecast Hummer four door that I want to convert into a two door.
This is a Johnny Lightning diecast, and is very detailed. It would make a good basis for any Hummer conversion.

I want to convert this into a two door to make it into a brush firefighting unit similar to this:

The unit above was created from a plastic Revell-Monogram Jurassic Park Hummer kit. This kit is very basic, and lacks detail. It required a lot of detail work to make it look the way that it does...
Any suggestions on cutting the straight lines would be appreciated.. Thanks in advance.

[CadillacPat]

I've modified a few 1/64 scale Hummers and a Jewelers Saw is the best and easiest thing to cut with.

CadillacPat

[jeffs396]

David, if you have access to a high-volume shop type air compressor and a die grinder, coupled with a carborundum cut-off wheel will make QUICK work of the cuts

[Ace-Garageguy]

Kinda depends on whether or not you want to save the cut-out parts. They do make mini cut-off wheels and mandrels for the Dremel, and it gives you more control than you might have if you're not used to using a big one.

Personally, I'd make the straight cuts with a razor saw, scribe the curves with the tip of it, and snap the parts out. Dress the cut edges with rotary tools on the Dremel or hand files.

[CadillacPat]

Here's a shot of 4 HotWheels Hummers precisely cut into interlocking segments using a Jewelers Saw.
I have and have used CutOff Wheels and Carbide Cuters when I first began Body mods on Zamac but they are so messy.

The precision of a Jewelers Saw allows me to accurately cut down the center of the door lines so modified castings fit together like pieces of a puzzle.
Only minute amounts of Milliput Putty were needed to seal the seams.





And for very small precision cuts like this,


Just use your Rotary Tool with a 1/16" bit to make your starter hole and you are on your way.

CadillacPat

[hooknladderno1]

Hi guys,
Thanks for your suggestions. With the help of a jewelers saw, Dymo label tape, and a little patience, I was able to go from this:

to this:

Still have to close off the back of the cab, and decide if I want to correct the distance from the front tire to the trailing bodywork just behind it...