Z06 chassis 99% done
Posted 20 June 2006 - 05:54 AM
The chassis of the 2006 Z06 is almost done. The only pending parts are the exhaust tips and the brakes. I like it so much I may display it upside down
Think of any metal shade of Testor's color and I probably used it here.
It looks all the same metallic color in the pic but there are many shades there, as well as many shades of black from dead flat to gloss to everything in between. The floor boards are darker than in the coupe or conv C6 due to the different materials used.
What do you think? Your comments are appreciated.
Posted 20 June 2006 - 06:12 AM
Posted 20 June 2006 - 06:59 AM
Posted 20 June 2006 - 07:28 AM
Hey Ismael, I am having problems myself with the 'new' revell plastic. What did you use to paint? Did you have any problems with crazing?
MOST DEFINITELY!!! I posted some comments about this a few days ago. I've been fighting this since the first C6 came out last year and it was a hot topic on the "other" board where many of us come from.
The new plastic is very soft and will craze at almost anything. Since I use automotive lacquer paints (Cobra Colors 99% exclusively) I use their primer, Moon Mud, which works great on the new plastic. I've tried Plastikote T235 as well with good results, but Duplicolor did not pass the test.
Even hardware store enamel spray cans can cause the plastic to craze if applied too heavy. I opted for using Testors enamels only for everything else other than the body. Acrylics will be safe as well. If you are going to use Testor's Metalizers, spray a barrier coat first like aluminum, steel etc. Metalizers on the new bare plastic will craze as well. I've only built C6 and Z06 recently, but I've been told the new Mustang and the new Viper have the same problem. I didn't see that problem in the Revell Germany Ferrari 612 I finished a little while ago.
Depending on the severity of the crazing, it can be sanded away and start all over again.
Bottom line: Be patient, careful and test whenever possible......
I hope this helps.
Posted 20 June 2006 - 08:19 AM
As far as the crazing problem...........I wonder if the body was airbushed with several coats of Future Floor Wax, would this be a cheap but effective way to prevent crazing?
Years ago I built a '55 T-Bird (converted Monograms '56), and it was molded in that nasty red plastic. I airbrushed about 5 or 6 coats of Future on the plastic before the primer----let it sit overnight--- and then primered as usual. The red DID NOT bleed through and I was able to color coat it the light aqua Thunderbird Blue.
I may do test to see if this can prevent this, as itwould be a precautionary step since Revell/Monogram has gone on the cheap and given us this type of plastic.
Posted 20 June 2006 - 12:31 PM
Posted 20 June 2006 - 05:59 PM
Posted 21 June 2006 - 03:01 AM
I wonder if the body was airbushed with several coats of Future Floor Wax, would this be a cheap but effective way to prevent crazing?
Thinking out loud, as rock hard as Future dries, it is still an acrylic product. I would worry about using it under lacquer or hot enamels. It may eventually crack or "spider web" destroying the finish. I don't know, just a thought...
Posted 21 June 2006 - 03:41 AM
I can vouch for the efficacy of Zinsser B-I-N as a sealer if one is using hotter paints. I used it between coats of Tamiya white primer on my recent Monogram (molded in red '70's plastic) Porsche 924. The original coats of primer turned pink, except in the areas that had filler. A good layer of B-I-N was airbrushed (go ahead and buy a can of it and mix it well and airbrush...the spray can nozzles are Testors-worthy :roll: ). It dries fast and sands like any other primer. Hit it w/a bit more "regular" primer and it works quite well. No more pink primer and my white 924 is white.
It's tempting to spray my Z06 body in Tamiya Mica Silver (great new color) w/o primer because normally it goes on beautifully w/o primer when the plastic is smooth and pure white. I'll go ahead and prime it w/Tamiya gray to be safe.