Ford 427 SOHC questions
#1
Posted 26 November 2012 - 01:56 PM
It looks as if the kit front cover is covering the belt/chain that drives the cams but has a hole on either side like it wants something to be attached there - but there's nothing in the kit.
I'm just confused and would appreciate some assistance.
#2
Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:04 PM
#3
Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:05 PM




I know a couple of these are different engines but i'm hoping one of them is similar to what you're working on.
Edited by Futurabat, 26 November 2012 - 02:05 PM.
#4
Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:26 PM

...street water pump, pulleys and alternator and bracket...those bolted plates on the front cover are access to cam-chain idlers / tensioners and could POSSIBLY mount an alternator off to the side of a blower belt, driven by the chain itself...

And an additional pic of the cam-drive chain arrangement. Judging from this and the second photo futurabat posted, it COULD be possible to drive an alternator from the chain....through one of the holes you mention in the housing.

...and another option would be to place a small drive pulley on the crank, in front of the blower-drive pulley, and drive an alternator in a manner similar to this pump...whatever it is...
Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 26 November 2012 - 02:42 PM.
#5
Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:35 PM
Also, member High octane has that build in his avatar. He would be a good source for info on this kit. Maybe send him a PM?
Edited by plowboy, 26 November 2012 - 02:39 PM.
#6
Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:11 PM
John Pol
#7
Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:18 PM
some people even put the alternator on the driveshaft with the belt
John Pol
......which of course only charges when the car is moving, so doesn't help much in traffic, especially with the AC blowing.......
#8
Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:50 PM
#9
Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:56 PM
...and another option would be to place a small drive pulley on the crank, in front of the blower-drive pulley, and drive an alternator in a manner similar to this pump...whatever it is...
That's a vacuum pump. Designed to evacuate the crankcase and reduce rotating drag from blowby and improve ring seal. Usually made by Moroso.
To the OP-driving the alt from the driveshaft is actually a good idea on many levels as suggested above.
Many drag cars do that because they don't idle much. It works for ProStreet guys for the same reason.
On a model, you'd be burying detail for not much visual payoff-if you could even fit it. A detail on the driveshaft or pinion snout of the rear is a great detail when displayed properly.
On 1:1 Cammers, tuners don't clutter the oil pan area or chain covers when they don't have to for maintenance.
#10
Posted 26 November 2012 - 04:17 PM
Any blown engine can also run street equipment. The water pump and street pullys are normaly behind the blower drive, close to the block.
Well, I don't mean to seem argumentative, but in my experience.... blower drives put a large load on the crankshaft snout, and the lower drive cog needs to be as close to the front main bearing as possible. When the toothed lower Gilmer drive-cog is located as close in as possible, it may often cause interference between the blower Gilmer belt and water pump. That also means the pulleys on the crank that normally drive accessories and a water pump won't be there anymore. So, many blown drag engines don't run water pumps, or run electric pumps instead. A blower drive setup that is configured to drive a stock, street style water pump and an alternator isn't your everyday, average setup, and for maximam strength (to avoid having a large load far out on the tip of the crank snout), accessory drive pulleys should be mounted in front of the Gilmer belt drive-cog on the crank, and not between the blower drive and the front cover. This also shortens the necessary length of the shaft driving the blower itself.
"To the OP-driving the alt from the driveshaft is actually a good idea on many levels as suggested above.
Many drag cars do that because they don't idle much. It works for ProStreet guys for the same reason.
On a model, you'd be burying detail for not much visual payoff-if you could even fit it. A detail on the driveshaft or pinion snout of the rear is a great detail when displayed properly.
On 1:1 Cammers, tuners don't clutter the oil pan area or chain covers when they don't have to for maintenance."
Agreed, and it really depends if the vehicle he's building is intended to actually be a car capable of cruising in real-world conditions, or not. I was proposing ways an alternator COULD be made to work in a real-world, stop-and-go scenario.
Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 26 November 2012 - 04:32 PM.
#11
Posted 26 November 2012 - 05:57 PM
#12
Posted 26 November 2012 - 06:26 PM
Edited by Jantrix, 26 November 2012 - 06:26 PM.
#13
Posted 27 November 2012 - 03:00 AM
#14
Posted 27 November 2012 - 04:44 AM

#15
Posted 27 November 2012 - 05:13 AM












