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Scratch built Headers an Velocity Stacks


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#1 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 10:47 AM

I think there have been other posts on this subject and i am probably not the inventor of this Idea but i wanted to share with you, my method of making Headers and Velocity Stacks from scratch.

 

P1050159-vi.jpg

 

I use aluminum and brass tubing along with solder wire (non flux prefered unless you want a mess later, it leaks out)

 

I have an assortment of different length and diameter of screws along with some other gadgets that i've found along the way.

 

P1050175-vi.jpg

 

The cone things on the left are tips from pens and drafting pencils.

 

The basics behind this is to use the flared end of any of these things and press it into the tubing.

 

P1050176-vi.jpg

 

This is a Grabber screw that i cut the threads off of with my Dremel and a cutting disc so all thats left is the smooth shank.

 

Select a piece of tubing slightly longer than what you need and find a screw that fits as tightly as possible inside but it has to be shorter than the tube.

 

P1050177-vi.jpg

 

Then i put it into a small vise and twist it till the head of the screw flares out the tubing.

 

Like this.

 

P1050179-vi.jpg

 

Here's what i end up with. There is a trick though, make sure that everything is perfectly straight in the vise when you twist it or can bend the tubing sideways.

 

P1050180-vi.jpg

 

I know i have seen people set a punch on the tubing and tap it with a hammer, but this method gives you more control over how big the flare needs to be. I have even put a hole sizer arond the tube so i can press multiple piece to the exact same size.

 

P1050181-vi.jpg

 

I'll post another method in a minute..

 



#2 Deathgoblin

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:04 AM

Very nice tip.  Thanks!!



#3 gtx6970

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:15 AM

Boy am  I gonna remember this( see avatar)

<<<<<<<<

 

Many thanks


Edited by gtx6970, 14 December 2012 - 11:16 AM.


#4 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:16 AM

The other method is using a long screw and a nut to force the tubing to flare. Like this.

 

P1050133-vi.jpg

 

If you do it right, it should look like this. This isn't as reliable though because sometimes the tubing turns when you twist the nut and it warps the tubing, but not always. Brass seems to hold up better to this method.

 

P1050135-vi.jpg

 

I try a slip the finished tube into my drill and spin it while hitting it with some double 00 steel wool. You can get an almost chrome finish out of it.

 

P1050138-vi.jpg

 

Make this ugly carburator look pretty nice.

 

P1050140-vi.jpg

 

I used an old foil from my electric razor, glued it to the rim and scissored the excess off.

 

P1050141-vi.jpg

 

This is what i got.

 

P1050142-vi.jpg

 

More to come.



#5 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:23 AM

I used the vise method to get a pair of Mc Larens spiffied up.

 

P1050105-vi.jpg

 

P1050158-vi.jpg

 

I've perfected it a bit more since i buil these 2 cars.



#6 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:47 AM

Now for the headers. as i said earlier, don't use the solder that has a flux core, it leaks after awhile and makes a big mess.

I just mocked 1 header up for this post and held it next to and old engine to give you a visual.

 

 

 

P1050144-vi.jpg

 

Before i bent the pieces of solder, i put them in the drill and used the steel wool on them. They shined up reat nice.

I just free handed them but when i was done they fit the motor perfectly (pat self on the back) After bending them i used super glue to stick them all together then cut the ends off with a knife.

Next was to find the right piece of tubing for the collector.

 

P1050145-vi.jpg

 

I used the tip of a pen to flare the tubing.

 

P1050123-vi.jpg

 

I had to drill it out to get the screw through it. would have been easier to just put it in the vise but i was being stubborn.

 

P1050127-vi.jpg

 

P1050128-vi.jpg

 

Then i put the tubing on it and twisted it till it was flared enough to fit the solder ends into it. Any more flaring would have split the tube (I know this because i split a few of them)

 

P1050147-vi.jpg



#7 Guest_G Holding_*

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:20 PM

Good job! Only thing I would add about making headers is to drill holes in the heads before bending the solder. You can then get them square. After you make and bend the headers, take a strip of styrene.020 and make a flange. I do this after I drill and bend.


#8 Foxer

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:21 PM

This is interesting. One question ... when using the vise do you just twist it with your fingers? It seems it would be too tight to flare and twist easily.



#9 Matt Bacon

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:31 PM

That's a great tip for making your own. I cheated and bought one of these:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2648

 

"Bootlace Ferrules" they're called, and they are for finishing the ends of electrical wire before soldering, I think. They come flared already. This mixed box has a variety of sizes which will work for "normal" length stacks/induction tubes in 1/24 or 1/32 scale, and if you hunt around they come in a wide variety of diameter/length/flare combinations for more unusual set-ups...

 

Thanks for the technique for the bigger ones, though!

 

bestest,

M.



#10 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:45 PM

Once i got the flare just right i filed the end of the header just a bit and pushed the collector on, then got my handy pliers out.

 

P1050149-vi.jpg

 

I started to crimp the flare around the solder like so.

 

P1050150-vi.jpg

 

When i got it close enough, i squeezed some super glue in the back side of the collector. I did this one in a hurry, i could have got a better job if i'd taken more time. Detail master has Photo etch  collector flanges you can add from here, i did on my 68 Vette or you can just leave them open. There's alot of options from here.

 

P1050151-vi.jpg

 

P1050064-vi.jpg

 

I was going to try and make a set of side pipes for this Vette but ended up going with an under car exhaust on this project.

I used a larger diameter solder to go from the collectors to the back of the car.

 

P1050183-vi.jpg

 

I drilled a small hole in the solder and put a piece of a pin in it so i could glue it to collector. These collectors are made a a piece of spur that i turned with a drill and a knife then i filed the grooves in them. It took forever to do this, the tubing is much easier.

 

Here's the rest rest of the exhaust.

 

P1050182-vi.jpg

 

Now i need to cut them shorter so i can add the mufflers and the tips.

 

Here's a picture of the rest of the parts. (Right to left) The mufflers are a pieces of metal salvaged from an old printer that i tore apart. I stuck them in my drill and worked them over with a file to get the pin like ends on them so i can drill a hole in the solder and glue them in, then a short piece of solder, Then the tips. I turned them with the drill and steel wool, still need to cut them to length (quite a bit shorter) you can see how they shine up, the left side was the end in the drill. Pretty nice !

 

 

P1050184-vi.jpg

 

So ! that's only the beginning of what you can do, add some imagination to these tips and who knows what you can come up with.

I hope i haven't bored anyone with this or posted something you already know. This is just something that i came up with. Feel free to add your little twist to this post, i'd be glad to see what everyone else comes up with..



#11 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:50 PM

Good job! Only thing I would add about making headers is to drill holes in the heads before bending the solder. You can then get them square. After you make and bend the headers, take a strip of styrene.020 and make a flange. I do this after I drill and bend.

 

 

Yes. I didn't drill this block out cause it was a mock job, but when i built the Vette, thats what i did. I didn't use the styrene trick though, i will add that to my next build.

Thanks for pointing out the drilling process, i failed to mention it in the post..



#12 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:56 PM

This is interesting. One question ... when using the vise do you just twist it with your fingers? It seems it would be too tight to flare and twist easily.

 

I just put it in the vise and twist the vise down on it, it pushes the screw into the tube and flares the tube. That's why the tube has to be slightly longer than the screw or the vise would tighten down on both ends of the screw. I hope this makes sence



#13 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 01:00 PM

That's a great tip for making your own. I cheated and bought one of these:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2648

 

"Bootlace Ferrules" they're called, and they are for finishing the ends of electrical wire before soldering, I think. They come flared already. This mixed box has a variety of sizes which will work for "normal" length stacks/induction tubes in 1/24 or 1/32 scale, and if you hunt around they come in a wide variety of diameter/length/flare combinations for more unusual set-ups...

 

Thanks for the technique for the bigger ones, though!

 

bestest,

M.

 

 

Yes, i saw that posted in the "Hobby Store Finds" I came up with this cause i'm cheap LOL and i can make any length or configuration i need. Just use your imagination, the possibilies are endless.

Thanks for adding to this post though, That's why i wrote it, so everyone can add their 2 cents..



#14 crazyjim

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 01:04 PM

Very cool tips.  Thank you.  Have you ever used aluminum rod rather than solder?  I like the aluminum (Hobby Lobby) better because it's not as heavy.



#15 pandamonium2112

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 02:08 PM

Very cool tips.  Thank you.  Have you ever used aluminum rod rather than solder?  I like the aluminum (Hobby Lobby) better because it's not as heavy.

 

I'm not sure what this tubing is, it could be aluminum, I bought 2 huge grab bags of odds and ends piece at a hobby shop in Utah about 20 years ago and still have a bunch. I've tried bending this stuff but it never turned out good, it always ended up kinking so i just ran with the solder idea. I may look into aluminum if i can find it, pickings are slim in this little town i live in, the local hobby shop is a joke. I like to use my imagination and find things i can use.

I posted a thread in "Craft store findings" I like to go to second hand stores and buy junk electronics, i take them completely apart and use the guts for all kinds of stuff. Old VCR's and printers are a gold mine of odd items, also old wind-up watches..I can make anything out of a handful of junk..

Thanks for the reply..



#16 Gothic Kustomz

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 03:22 PM

I have found using Acid core solder will be a mess, as the acid will eventually leak too, and we all know what that does, to prevent flux core solder from leaking, I have used, a small needle and hot water to hollow the solder out some, then placed super glue inside the tube a drop at a time, till it it fills, that work's good, but I dunno for how long, been about 2 months now, still waiting to see the leaks, but I would not suggest using acid core, for your headers,

 

The velocity stacks, now I never thought of using a screw, an a vice, as all mine have to be 5/16" base, that's a great idea, gonna give that a shot, for sure.....


Edited by Gothic Kustomz, 14 December 2012 - 03:26 PM.


#17 pandamonium2112

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Posted 15 December 2012 - 03:16 PM

WOW this should be stickied!

 

Call the president and get it done..LOL

 

BTW i just realized you are a resident of ID. PM would be cool, what town?


Edited by pandamonium2112, 15 December 2012 - 03:19 PM.