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Another Super 7

True Scratch-building Brass & Aluminum Machining Casting

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#141 Scale-Master

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 05:45 PM

A lot of it is simply that, (basic shapes).  Looking at the core structure and not being distracted by the perceived complexity the details create. Not caring how long it takes to make something helps too.

 

I started on the master for the Webers. The body is made from bronze I acquired from the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland. A friend who worked there gave me a set of used pick up shoes (think giant slot car).

I machined the body to accept the venturi tubes; they are pieces of brass tubing. Soldering the bronze to the brass turned to be more difficult than I expected, and it doesn’t have much strength for hard edges either. It seems to be a porous and dirty metal, maybe from its previous life…?

DSC01809.jpg

Next I added the bowl to it. Since the bronze needed far more heat to fuse other parts to it using solder than the brass, I opted to use styrene for these parts.

DSC01812.jpg

Looks kind of like Wall-E…

DSC01810.jpg



#142 Pete J.

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 08:04 PM

Mark-

 

Nice looking work. I especially like the transmission. You are right about the basic shapes. I learned that bit reading Gerald Windgrove’s books. You take it to a level I haven't quite got the hang of yet. I am learning from watching you though. Thanks.

 

I am a little intrigued by your comments about the bronze/brass soldering. There is not a lot of difference between the two and after reading a little more, I am even more befuddled. The only difference seems to be zinc vs. tin. I would think they should work equally well. I wonder if the fact that these were pickup shoes and had high voltage going through them in their prior life had any impact on what you are doing?

 

Great work. Keep it coming.



#143 Scale-Master

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:48 AM

Thanks Pete.

I suspect the high amperage electricity and probable subsequent heat had some effect, and also likely some type of lubricant became impregnated into the bronze during its use on the ride. It seemed like a novel thing to use, but it does not seem to be the best quality bronze for model making.



#144 Chas SCR

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:37 AM

What about using the gold brass pick up shoes from slot cars? or even the older ones that has not been gold plated?



#145 Alyn

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:52 AM

gorgeous looking parts, Mark.

 

Back in my slot car days, I remember the oilite bronse bushings that you could buy if you didn't have the bucks for ball bearings. The oilites were, of course, impregnated with a lubricant from the onset. With a little googling, I've also found that bronze can be alloyed with a variety of metals including aluminum. That would make for an ugly soldering experience.

 

Looking forward to the next part masterpiece.



#146 Scale-Master

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:54 AM

What about using the gold brass pick up shoes from slot cars? or even the older ones that has not been gold plated?

For what exactly?  I used the bronze because it was a large enough chunk to machine the carb body from.  As I recall slot car pick ups (if they are what I think you are referring to) are thin like foil, not applicable for this project.



#147 Chas SCR

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:58 AM

Ok, I did'nt know that you needed that big of a chunk to work with is why I was asking if it may helped.  The aftermarket G+ ones are thicker then normal is all.



#148 Pete J.

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 10:06 AM

Thanks Pete.

I suspect the high amperage electricity and probable subsequent heat had some effect, and also likely some type of lubricant became impregnated into the bronze during its use on the ride. It seemed like a novel thing to use, but it does not seem to be the best quality bronze for model making.

 Seems to make sense.  It is always nice to get something you can work with at no out of pocket cost, but sometimes there is a payback in there someplace.  Just for my own info, did you try anealing it before you worked with it. If not, it may help the workablity of the metal, but I would be cautious about it.  As you said, there may be some lubricant on board and heat may produce toxic vapors.



#149 Scale-Master

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 11:01 AM

Oh yeah..., it smoked and stunk when I soldered the brass tubing to it.  That was my first clue it had some type of contamination inpregnated into it.  I didn't try to anneal it it since I was machining it, not forming it.


Edited by Scale-Master, 05 February 2013 - 01:39 PM.


#150 Scale-Master

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 01:39 PM

This is the start of the top of the carb…

DSC01813.jpg



#151 Scale-Master

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 08:04 AM

The base flanges have been added, they are made from acid cut brass from artwork I drew.

DSC01848_zpsf5fcdec5.jpg

I also added the intake side flanges…

DSC01854_zps63852f9c.jpg



#152 vintagedragfan

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 02:03 PM

AWESOME STUFF Mark!



#153 Scale-Master

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 06:03 AM

Thanks Bill.

 

This is the beginning of the intake manifold.  It is all brass soldered together.  Mounting surfaces are acid cut and the tubes are just K&S stock cut and machined to fit.

DSC01851_zps27f9bfc7.jpg

This is the carb master and manifold dry fitted to the head.

DSC01857_zpsec4b407e.jpg



#154 Davewilly

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 06:13 AM

Very Cool



#155 crazyrichard

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 07:07 AM

:wub:  cant say anything else then > :wub:



#156 lanesteele240

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 12:19 PM

All i can say is wow

#157 Alyn

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 04:17 PM

Very interesting.

 

Looks like you're got the knack with the acid etch process. The parts look great!



#158 Mooneyzs

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 04:33 PM

Mark... outstanding work and looking great.



#159 Foxer

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 02:24 AM

Just plain beautiful work!



#160 vintagedragfan

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 02:26 AM

wow! stellar