128 replies to this topic

[Edsel-Dan]

The 2 T-Birds & 2 Pontiacs were AMT, but many said that were not all that accurate.

Definitely not as detailed as this one.

Pontiacs were 43 of King Richard & 75 of Neil Bonnet

 

Not sure who the second 'Bird was.

[Edsel-Dan]

OK, That was Before Neil I think

[Dave Van]

OK, That was Before Neil I think

Neil had left RAMOHC Racing by the time the kit came out. He had gone to  a limited sched. The thing most folks forget is the #75 kit was announced at RCHTA as a Tim Richmond Old Milwaukee car!!  But the anti beer PC folks killed that one and the Speed car was filled in.

 

BTW....the kits are not well done. The Pontiac is salvageable but the TB is a mess. Body is all wrong. They have you cutting up the roll cage to make the body fit the chassis......just a mess.

[Greg Myers]

sorry guys I just could not resist in an early April fools joke LOL

Chuck

 

 

 

 

The new box is smaller ?

[Edsel-Dan]

Looks like it is.

[Fender]

 I'm building a modded General Lee which is close to the same as this kit (Petty) engine wise and chassis wise.......I looked thru this thread and couldn't find it BUT   I read  somewhere about having to tweek the headers and header gaskets to make them fit the engine right so that when the engine is installed in the chassis  the headers won't touch the tie rod or some other chassis parts.  I wanted to get a little more detail on that..  if anyone knows?

 

I'm going to be ready soon to do the tweek but I want to figure out all my test fits and gluing so it goes smooth.  Plus that will help when I get to the Petty kit if it has the same tweek needed.. Thanks--

 

I remembered the AMT stock cars and how the T Bird was messed up-  I'm glad my memory went back that far-( *80's) I guess I'm doing pretty good!

 

And----  I'll buy any 1/16, 1/12, 1/8  Nascar kit--  a 1/8 kit would be beyond cool--- ( I know- they'll never make one)

[mikemopar70]

I just bought mine, and it's an excellent kit i was waiting to buy since a long time!!

 

Originals are merely unaffordable, and i don't like to work with the clear plastic body, because it's not the same as opaque polystyrene, it's harder and more difficult to work with ...

 

I've seen lots of patched t-tops bodywork ruined because clear plastic doesn't react the same to solvents, you can achieve this task correctly, but it requires more bodywork!

 

And this issue will allow modeler's to BUILD the famous NASCAR from the King, and will also keep the originals with the clear body valuable!

 

I'm impressed with the quality from a tool that age... And proud to finally have it in my lineup..

[JMChladek]

Clear body would have been cool, but too much of a liability as I see it. AMT/Ertl a few years back was using a different plastic formula for clear parts from what I had seen before on one SF spacecraft model I was building (I believe they were testing a formula to use on a couple all clear SF ships they were designing for their Proshop line) and it seemed about as flexible as opaque styrene, but it had a weird side effect as when I painted and put a wash on the part, it warped. Only way to de-warp it was to gently brush it with some liquid glue on the backside. So I am thinking if Round 2 were to try and use THAT plastic formula and somebody were to try a half and half paintjob (half clear, half painted) the result would have been a warped mess.

 

One piece car bodies are an interesting bit of model kit engineering and require a bit of flex to de-mold properly compared to other kit parts with two piece molds and shallow draft angles. It was a miracle of modern engineering that MPC were able to offer those bodies in clear back then. I am not surprised with altered plastic formulas, changes in some of the ingredients and perhaps stricter EPA guidelines that such a formula for doing it would have been lost. We are talking 40 years of model kit engineering afterall with the ownership of MPC changing hands three times at least. Besides, 40 years ago we also were landing men on the moon and that is another thing we don't do anymore.

 

So, I will get my Petty Blue molded charger and I will enjoy building it. I've waited to get my hands on one of these for years and it sounds like the wait will be worth it.

[1972coronet]

Not to completely railroad the thread ...

I wonder if a multi-piece car body would take well to clear casting ? In other words , perhaps something along the lines of how a full-scale ("1:1") auto body is assembelled ; main "skeletal" structure ; separate quarter panels , fenders , shear panels , door skins , etc. , etc.

Certainly this would be "easier" in 24th or 25th scale ; however , perhaps it'd be *do-able* in 16th scale as well .

 

Just a thought ...

[JMChladek]

The idea does make sense. Although I've found that the seams in multi-piece clear parts do tend to stick out like a sore thumb somewhat if they are thick. One possible alternative I could see though would be a clear vaccuform body perhaps (even multi-piece since the edges of the parts would be thinner).

 

Still, I would consider that more for an aftermarket supplier to do rather than Round 2.

[Dave Van]

Not to completely railroad the thread ...

I wonder if a multi-piece car body would take well to clear casting ? In other words , perhaps something along the lines of how a full-scale ("1:1") auto body is assembelled ; main "skeletal" structure ; separate quarter panels , fenders , shear panels , door skins , etc. , etc.

Certainly this would be "easier" in 24th or 25th scale ; however , perhaps it'd be *do-able* in 16th scale as well .

 

Just a thought ...

Remember how hated the Revell Vette kit with multi piece body was???? Or the 59 Ford??? I can see the reaction if folks paid $40 and had to glue the body together!!!

[shafer]

I have started on mine , I am working with a very snug test fit right now , before building the running gear and roll cage

[brad4321]

I'm about 90% done with this kit.  Tons of flash, and your knuckles end up raw from the endless puttying and sanding.  But what a fun fun kit.  The work is very rewarding.

 

So I have a question.  How are people executing this 3 color scheme?  The best advice I've seen is to paint the entire body white.  Then mask the white line and paint the blue and red.  I think this will work but there are some sharp curves that are tough to lay down.  Is there a masking product that will take such a sharp turn?  Ot do people have a better idea?

[Jason Burdette]

I got my first Petty Charger today. Got it home and opened and found the body is deformed at the back window. looks like the mold did not fill all the way, there is a big part of the rear package self missing from the car. Does Round 2 have a replacement policy like Revell. I need to get a new body for this kit.

[Dave Van]

I'd contact them....they may want it back to see why it happened. They should swap it out.

[MAGNUM4342]

Polar lights does have a replacement policy here... http://round2models.com/replacement/

By the way, there is no package shelf in this car being a NASCAR stocker.

[Greg Myers]

Maybe they should have stuck with the "clear" body ?

 

[Tony T]

Just got one of these home...gonna go take a look at the inside of the box...been a long wait for this kit to be reissued!
Oh...I paid $39.99 Canadian at my LHS.

Edited by Tony T, 30 March 2013 - 08:35 AM.

[MAGNUM4342]

Tony, be prepared to be blown away! This is 1973 kit technology you're looking at, and it is STILL one of the most technically accurate NASCAR models ever made. A friend of mine recently showed one to Richard out in Fontana and the King was blown away at how well the kit had been restored to it's original glory.  

[Tony T]

Very impressed! Jack stands, clear valve cover and gauges, and on and on...this is going to be a fun one to build! There is some flash, but nothing that looks any worse than other kits. I'm pleased with my kit! So, is the Petty racing red from the NASCAR line of paints that came out a while back a good match for this? How about the Petty blue? I think I have a spray can of each left. I used them on my '92 Fan Appreciation Tour Pontiac I built a few years ago. I remember the red going on flat and rough but smoothed out with the gloss coats. The blue went on smooth and shiny.