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Createx Wicked Colors Paint Questions


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#1 Jc cline

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 05:52 AM

Was just wondering what kind of primer to use?with createx wicked color paint.i read that this paint doesn't need a primer.but I've also read that people do you use a primer under this paint.can I use dupli-color primer under this paint?im getting ready to practice on some spoons.but any info would.thanks so much.



#2 cchapman195

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:08 AM

Jc, Bennymacattack on youtube uses this stuff almost exclusively. He has a video showing his process and he does not use a primer. Outstanding results every time. He has just done his first model with Future added as a clear coat but besides that, all have a beautiful shine and clean smooth finish. Check him out. I also was so impressed by his work I bought a pearlized white creatix airbrush yeasterday for  a 55 chevy convertable. I hope to shoot it a little later today.  can't wait.



#3 Jc cline

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:14 AM

Awesome man, thanks for the info.let me no how it works on your 55. Thanks again

#4 cchapman195

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:15 AM

I will let you know  and no problem.



#5 Chief Joseph

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 12:44 PM

I use them and I like them.  You can reduce them like crazy and they just work.  They'll go over clean styrene easily as long as you don't build it up too fast; they work well at higher air pressures.  The regular Wicked Colors dry to a semi-gloss sheen and the Detail colors dry to a smooth matte finish.  You can use virtually any clear on top of them, too.

 

The best source of information for any paint is from the maker of the paint.  Look at this guide on the Createx website: http://www.createxco...rface_guide.pdf



#6 Jc cline

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 02:34 PM

Thank you chief Joseph.i will be practicing on spoons tomorrow.

#7 Harry P.

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 04:13 PM

Once again... this is not a tip, trick or tutorial, it's a QUESTION.

 

So I moved it to the... wait for it... QUESTION and answer section! Crazy, right?  :rolleyes:



#8 DaveM

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 08:27 AM

I have a new huge set of Wicked colors paints and a pint bottle of regular reducer.  (Christmas present from Cathie to reduce my use of stinky lacquers)  I am finally getting my airbrush station set up this week.  (Almost done)  I plan on doing the 24 hour build next weekend, but I need to learn the new paint system well enough finish a model in 24 hours.  I have never used these paints, so I am in for a fast lesson!   I am using a Badger Anthem 155 with a Pancake compressor.  I can reliably paint with 50 p.s.i. for a body or so without kicking the compressor back on.  I tend to spray lacquers and acrylics under 35 psi, but I can adjust that to whatever works with these paints.

 

I know some of you get terrific results with Wicked paints. How fast do they set up, and how hard are they to mask?  Do they leave a big ridge that can't be feathered like Createx paints, or do they work a bit better?  Any tips or tricks on thinning and spraying to keep from making a total mess of my first project.  I won't be able to get the premium reducer, or neutral base until after the 24 hour build, but if either of those are needed to get better results later on, I will spring for them.  Do I need to break out a hair dryer like the Createx paints, or will that cause these to wrinkle (Or burst into flame?)

 

 I will still probably prime with Tamiya or Plastikote primers, and I will probably have to clearcoat with lacquer for the time being.   I am guessing that the wicked colors are going to build up in very thin layers and the gloss will be provided by a clear topcoat.  Do you ever use a wet coat with these or not?   If they work out well, I will get some more colors, and maybe try Auto Air, since it can be mixed with them.  

 

Thanks in advance for your help,

 

Dave

 

 

 

 



#9 Chief Joseph

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 09:06 AM

I hit them with a hairdryer on low for a few seconds to flash set them while I'm painting.  The W100 reducer will work virtually at any ratio with these paints-- just make them as thin as needed to spray a good coat.  Don't use a thick, wet coat because it won't help at all and can lead to cracking.  Straight from the bottle, they like to be sprayed at high pressure-- like around 60psi, but as you thin them, the pressure can drop to as little as 8-10.  Thinner paint will require more coats, though.  A good primer is a must with these paints, and lacquer topcoat works just fine.



#10 DaveM

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 10:46 AM

Thanks, that's just the information I needed.  I read the other thread where you mentioned that you used Wicked Colors.  I am glad to know that they will work well.  Sounds like they should work well for masking two tones too? 

 

Thanks again,

Dave



#11 DrewCfromSC

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 08:00 AM

newbie with an airbrush (paasche talon siphon and gravity feed) asking about what to reduce wicked pearls with their high performance reducer. Any mix ratio or eyeball it? So far im guessing and shooting junker bodies for practice. Seems really thick right out of the bottles so im trying about 50/50 mix with 30 psi at the airbrush.

What are you trying?

Drew



#12 impcon

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 12:36 PM

I know from experience that with painting 1:1 cars, it takes literally just drops in a quartof paint to get a pearl effect. I think that 50/50 would be way overkill if what you are using is anything like real automotive paints. You can over do it with pearls on real cars and often the results are disappointing. But maybe model paints are different. I'd definitely try a little and just add to the trial shoot and keep track of the ratio that you use. It's a whole lot easier to add a few drops than take it back out of the mix, that's for sure.



#13 DrewCfromSC

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 03:28 PM

thanks for the info. Did some thinning and think ive got it figured out.........................or not, still trying.



#14 Psychographic

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 04:36 PM

It's pretty easy to figure out how much to thin any paint for an airbrush.

 

Look at the feathering of your spray pattern ( the part from the center where it goes from a solid coverage to no coverage).

 

If it looks like a puddle, it's too thin.

 

If it's grainy, it's too thick.

 

What you want is a nice fog  from from the center out.



#15 10thumbs

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 07:55 PM

Thanks David, now that's something to work with.  Good one.

 

Michael



#16 Austin T

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 01:58 AM

Has anyone found a good ratio other than "looks good". I tried 50:50 but it was way to thin, I'm thinking 30:70 or 40:60 would work better?



#17 JunkPile

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 02:22 AM

Here is my quick and dirty method:  add thinner till it looks just right,  then add more thinner. 



#18 Psychographic

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 07:18 AM

Has anyone found a good ratio other than "looks good". I tried 50:50 but it was way to thin, I'm thinking 30:70 or 40:60 would work better?

Each airbrush is different, Some spray great at as low as 10psi and others need about 15 to 20. What pressure you use has a major factor in thinning your paint. A smaller nozzle will need thinner paint than a larger one.

 

This ratio stuff is pretty much nonsense if you ask me, the best it can do is get you in the ballpark. Keep practicing and soon it will be second nature to you.


Edited by Psychographic, 17 March 2014 - 07:25 AM.


#19 scalenut

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 03:45 PM

because the talon is a detail airbrush , you may need to install a larger needle/tip .. than go from there .. otherwise you may have to thin too much to get the coverage especially with pearls



#20 Bill J

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:51 AM

I use 20 pounds of pressure through my Paasche VL and my Iwata Eclipse. That is for painting bodies or parts. I back off to 15 pounds for Alclad. Everything else is 20 pounds.

 

I have a Paasche Talon siphon feed but have yet to try it out. As far as thinning goes, it depends on the paint, the type thinner, the nozzle/needle size and the air pressure. It is a challenge getting it just right. I tend to start too thick and thin a little at a time until it flows right. I prefer pre-mixed paints like Scalefinishes, they always spray perfectly!