How to "dry" assemble?
Posted 23 January 2013 - 02:30 AM
Posted 23 January 2013 - 02:38 AM
Yep, that's the ticket. Alene's Tacky Glue is also good.
Posted 23 January 2013 - 02:46 AM
Small dabs of super glue is way faster than white glue. Snaps right apart
Posted 23 January 2013 - 03:26 AM
Many do use Elmer's glue to test fit because it's removable with water. I use Microscale Micro Liquitape as it remains tacky and the parts can be taken apart and restuck.
Posted 23 January 2013 - 03:39 AM
My $.02...I hack and modify everything, so to me it all depends on what parts I'm mocking up, and what materials I'm using.
I'll often use just a touch of liquid cement to hold things together while I'm working out styling changes or suspension mods to hit the stance I want, and a Touch-N-Flow applicator is great for getting just a drop exactly where you want it. Too much, and you'll damage the parts when you take it apart.
White glue can be helpful if you're closer to final assembly and have time to let it dry (it's not fast-dry and things have to be held exactly in position while you wait) It's not water-soluable once it's fully dry however, so you'll have to scrape it off with a fingernail.
I also often use rubber cement to hold things temporarily as well.
If you're mocking up resin parts, CA is usually necessary...again, just a drop. Liquid plastic glue will also stick styrene to resin for a mockup.
Posted 29 January 2013 - 02:59 PM
One of the pros showed me how he built his models. He designed the entire thing to assemble by pin or press fit. He then could assemble the entire model and then take it apart to paint all the parts. I do a lot of this now, note how this engine goes together. As an additional benefit, once you glue it together with bits of straight pin, it's not falling apart!
Posted 29 January 2013 - 06:05 PM
Posted 30 January 2013 - 06:40 PM
Here's another photo of the pin method. Look at the two mirrors. They are both just sitting on straight pins in this photo. I drilled the holes prior to paint to avoid mishap with my paint job. If you look through the interior, you can see the pin on the passenger side. Once you figure out the length, just clip the straight pin down to size. Then you can glue it from inside the body. No chance of glue showing on your paint job! I do this with door handles too. And they'll never ever accidently come off!
In fact on this model I never did glue the pins. They're just holding the mirrors in place. This truck was the box art model for the Model King '79 Ford pickup kit. I was afraid that the mirrors and other accessories would fall off while being mailed around, so I left them off for the photographer to put on for the photo shoot.
Also I wasn't sure what accessories they'd want to photograph so every thing can go on or off. The front brush bar is on pins and the bed cover is just sitting in place. Note that the mirror isn't on in this photo.
And here it is with the roll bar pinned into the bed. See the mirror is in place in this photo.
Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:35 PM
I do a little of everything to mock up my models. I'll pin parts, make brackets and mounting points for major subassemblies out of styrene, and use white glue to mock up suspensions for the perfect stance. I usually use Micro Kristal Klear for this... it's thicker and dries quicker than ordinary white glue and is still water soluble.