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1936 MG SA Saloon

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#41 kennb

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:11 AM

First I am using .40th thick thermal plastic. When I get done, some parts are less then .10th thick. I do end up making several parts to get the right draw on them For the pumpkin I used a deep tube for the female mold. This has a lot to do with the depth of the parts. I am finding with the more I work with the molding process I can get more complex shapes depending on the male mold(Tide stain stick cap). This is really the only thing that limits me, the male mold parts. The one thing to remember is that with the thermal plastic you get it right the first heating since it will not heat a second time. With practice you can make anypart you need this way. I am still looking for how to do the inner fenders ont he front since the shape does not fit anthing I can find. I hope this answered the question adaquately, if not let me know and I can go into more detail with photos as needed. :)

 

Thermal plastics are used mostly in vacuum forming of parts like boxes and packaging of parts. I learned about this from my borther,who hold most of the patents on vacuum forming methods and machines. I have helped him out building machines and watched as he designed new ways of forming parts. Granted I dont have anything like the budgets he would have and do everything with simple parts and an exacto knife,a few files, and sandpaper. Everthing is made in a space of less than 2 square feet on my desk.

 

I hope that the methods I use can be helpful to others in making some parts to augment the kits most people use.

 

Again thank you for the comments and questions. They help me in coming up with new techneques to make more elaborate parts from nothing.

 

Kenn


Edited by kennb, 13 February 2013 - 06:11 AM.


#42 RAT-T

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:25 AM

THANKS KENN,
IS THAT PLASTIC AVAILABLE & AFFORDABLE?

ALSO, I THINK YOU COULD DO A THREAD ON JUST THE FORMING ASPECT, I THINK GUYS WOULD LOVE IT

#43 kennb

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 07:02 AM

I get the sheets of plastic,About 40" by 72" for under $10. The first part of the thread tells about it.

I will set up a short thread about forming parts in the near future... Thank you for suggesting it.

 

Kenn



#44 RAT-T

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 07:39 AM

THANKS KENN,

IS THIS IT? IT DOESN'T SAY THERMAL PLASTIC, BUT CAME UP IN THE SEARCH
http://www.usplastic...IC SHEET&page=1

#45 kennb

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 07:44 AM

That is the one,,,,,,yes......

:rolleyes:

 

Kenn



#46 patami

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 07:54 AM

Some of us are doing what we can and then there is those who do what they like with styrene :) Kenn your the master



#47 sjordan2

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 08:26 AM

Lots of good color combo ideas here. The least authentic would be anything metallic, since metallics were rare, didn't wear well and were usually avoided.
 
http://www.google.co...c.1.lQlsHPUuyDY
 
Since I'm interested in the Jaguar SS, which shares a lot of similarities with the SA Saloon, I found this article interesting -- good SA material here.
 
http://www.scottpete.../new_page_9.htm
 
More detailed stuff from Autocar mag when the SA was introduced...
 
http://mgaguru.com/m...tte_autocar.pdf
 
Picture26_zps0850d6df.png

You can enlarge - zoom back and forth - substantially on this image when you click on the thumbnail at
http://m.bonhams.com...s/10228/lot/49/


Edited by sjordan2, 13 February 2013 - 09:43 AM.


#48 robertw

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 08:27 AM

The work of a master craftsman. You humble most of us.



#49 kennb

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 09:00 AM

Thank you for the links,,,,,,they are very good and the second one has a great deal of information that I can use,,,

 

Kenn :)



#50 kennb

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:05 PM

Mudding the body. I used Bondo spot putty that I picked up at wally world. I put it on with a scrap piece of plastic.

 

DSCN3283_zpsd961bbbd.jpg

 

It is a little heavy and noticed that there is only about a 2 minute window of working time before it started to grab. it did take a few hours to harden and the bottom valance on the back should set overnight but it is a little heavier.

 

I sanded out with 220 340 and finally 400 to get it decent. Most of the putty was removed and there is a few spots to refill. nothing to sweat about though.

 

DSCN3288_zps83cccd3a.jpg

 

 

DSCN3287_zpsb93318ba.jpg

 

Thank you for looking and commenting with questions.

 

Kenn



#51 IMPALA SS 427

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 10:13 PM

What a project... amazing scratch building, i will be watching closely....



#52 RAT-T

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:30 AM

That is the one,,,,,,yes......
:rolleyes:
 
Kenn



THANKS KENN,
DO YOU HEAT THIS IN AN OVEN? IF SO WHAT TEMP & HOW LONG?

#53 kennb

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:40 AM

I heat it over a candle until it gets very pliable and limp......I am setting up a short tutorial that I will post this week end showing how to do that and what is needed and a lot of different shapes,,,,,I am experimenting on making my wheels this way also and will show that......Thank you for the questions since they help in setting things up and what I need to include.

 

Kenn



#54 GerN

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:43 AM

Mr. Borst, I bought (through MagCloud) your book on making a Tatra(fascinating company) model some time ago - it made me think of the Gerald Wingrove books.  Beautiful workmanship.  BTW, Bondo has a much better product (which you are probably aware of):  looks very similar (same size tube) but is a two part putty.  Very easy to use, stronger, much faster and doesn't shrink since it is not gassing out like the red stuff.  Cleans up with alcohol.

 

Thanks for sharing this build.



#55 kennb

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:50 AM

Gerald

 

You are very correct with the 2 part bondo. I used to build 1:1 custom Corvettes and Mustangs and used more that I care to admit to. I find for the little bit I use that the putty does fairly good other than taking so long to cure properly. Did not know it came in tubes,,,,I will have to look............. B)

 

Thank you also for getting the book. I hope that it helped you in some way.

 

Kenn


Edited by kennb, 14 February 2013 - 08:51 AM.


#56 RAT-T

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:56 AM

I heat it over a candle until it gets very pliable and limp......I am setting up a short tutorial that I will post this week end showing how to do that and what is needed and a lot of different shapes,,,,,I am experimenting on making my wheels this way also and will show that......Thank you for the questions since they help in setting things up and what I need to include.
 
Kenn


THANKS AGAIN KENN,

LOOKING FORWARD TO YOUR TUTORIAL

#57 kennb

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 04:41 PM

Here is the nearly complete rear end for this car. I will be going into detail of the construction in the thermal forming tutorial that I posted part 1 of tonight,

 

DSCN3290_zpsc08e22e2.jpg

 

DSCN3289_zpse9923742.jpg

 

It still needs some clean up and the springs, brakes and jacks need to be made.

 

Kenn



#58 kennb

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:22 AM

I took yesterday to add a few bits to the engine and firewall. I use the photos to get shapes and general layout on what I can see but end up faking in the bits I cant see that I feel need to be there to fill in spots. Theree has to be a certain level of detail parts to give the impression that you everything there whether you do or not.For this i use tubing, built up shaped parts like the water pump and stamped parts like the pullys. I feel that if you have enuff of the layers of parts that show and add some here and there to sujest what you can noy normally see it looks more finished and if you hove something out of place a bit or not just right it will not show unless you find someone who has an intimat knowledge of the particular car you built up.

 

DSCN3296_zps5107c5b2.jpg

 

DSCN3299_zps9128ccd9.jpg

 

DSCN3302_zps81aaad6a.jpg

 

DSCN3311_zps43eb3ea0.jpg

 

i still have the right side to fill in with the steering and manifolds. After all the painting is donw the 3rd layer of detail goes in with the wires and piping here and there. I will most likely have a lot of futtzy wires going about to make it look conplete.

I only have pictures to go by and the dont show all areas very good.

 

DSCN3308_zpsc4900a76.jpg

 

DSCN3309_zps05103946.jpg

 

Thank you for looking and the comments and questions.

I did start the Thermal forming thread 2 minutes before the forum crashed on Thusday, :rolleyes:

 

Kenn


Edited by kennb, 16 February 2013 - 03:23 AM.


#59 kennb

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:01 AM

I have the exhaust manifold started and the steering box finished and installed. The manifold is pinned so I can get it in and out while working on it,,,The intakes go between the exhaust as shown in the picture.

 

36-MG_SA_2-5Ltr-DV_12-AI_e04_zpsc78a0c60

 

DSCN3313_zpsabbe8cd8.jpg

 

DSCN3314_zps6cda14d5.jpg

 

Kenn



#60 kennb

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 01:26 PM

started getting the intake manafold put togehter, and getting the front sheet metal aligned and closer to finish...Guess I am going to have to get the frame brought up to speed next........all the comments are welcome, thank you.

 

DSCN3319_zpsc8e6d93c.jpg

 

DSCN3318_zpsccac515e.jpg

 

DSCN3317_zps2f107ca4.jpg


Edited by kennb, 16 February 2013 - 01:27 PM.