Jump to content

Flipnose Hinge Tutorial: Gassers, Altereds, etc

  • You cannot reply to this topic
6 replies to this topic

#1 Ace-Garageguy


    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,701 posts
  • Location:Down two, then left.
  • Full Name:Bill Engwer

Posted 28 January 2013 - 11:38 AM

This is a repop of something I put up a couple years ago at the neighbors. I'm seeing quite a lot of interest in gassers (several Corvettes recently), and though this was done specifically in answer to a question about the AMT Double Dragster Fiat, this general technique will work for just about ANY flipnose you might want to do. You can modify the shape of the arms to clear obstacles like radiators or Moon tanks etc, but the idea is the same. The real trick is to determine what's in the way, what has to be cleared, and then to be sure to tack the nose in place while you do all of the assembly. This GUARANTEES it will work as desired when you're finished, without ANY adjustment afterward, which in my own experience, is impossible. I build 1:1 hinges the same way.


1) Hinge arms have to go up and over front suspension. Tack nose in place EXACTLY where you want it to be when closed and draw hinge arms on the side of the beak.




2) Transfer these to .030 styrene. Make 2, EXACTLY the same.


3) Then make a hinge. Styrene tube in this case with 1/16 aluminum tube inside it ( which has about a .030 inside diameter ), .030 wire inside that. The wire is the actual pivot.




4) Now use the hinge arms you made to locate and drill .030 holes on either side of beak, making sure they line up with an acceptable location for the hinge in the center




5) .Next, glue in your hinge center and let it set up. Nose is still tacked to frame to make sure everything stays aligned.




6) Glue your hinge arms in from the back, using the pin through the hinge center to keep everything aligned. You're gluing them to the frame of the car, NOT to the hinge.




7) It will look like this from the back. Ends of hinge arches are glued to frame crossmember.




8) Ta Daa....Let the adhesive on the hinge arms cure COMPLETELY. Then GENTLY break the tacking points of the nose loose. If you did everything right, you have this.




Hood will actually fit the car and come down in the right place every time. Make your pieces nicer than I made these quickies for this demo. There are other ways, but this works. You can make the hinge arms out of tubing if you want to do more work, but these blade type hinge arms could easily have been on a real car, most likely fabricated out of aluminum alloy plate.





#2 vintagercr


    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,696 posts
  • Location:Belleville, ON
  • Full Name:Stephen Martin

Posted 28 January 2013 - 12:52 PM

Bill, thanks for the tutorial. I have always wanted to do a flip nose. Now I'm motivated.

#3 jeffs396


    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,361 posts
  • Location:NE Ohio
  • Full Name:Jeff

Posted 28 January 2013 - 04:06 PM

Yes, thanks Bill! B) 


You've made it look easy, will have to try it on the Hudson gasser that I've got the front clip removed from already... 

#4 High octane

High octane

    MCM Ohana

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,835 posts
  • Location:Midwest
  • Full Name:Nick

Posted 29 January 2013 - 06:59 PM

Good job on the tutorial Ace, and thanks.

#5 farmer1


    MCM Friend

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 170 posts
  • Location:Iowa
  • Full Name:Randy McCann

Posted 30 January 2013 - 05:12 PM

Nice tutorial, Thanks, have a couple of those I'll use this on

#6 Marty "Hatchet"

Marty "Hatchet"

    MCM Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 35 posts
  • Location:Grand Jct, Colorado
  • Full Name:Car Junckie

Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:41 PM

Now there's something I can use!

#7 mark wheat

mark wheat

    MCM Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 13 posts
  • Location:tomkinsville ky
  • Full Name:mark wheat

Posted 22 August 2014 - 09:57 PM

thank's for the tip