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Outlaw 10.5 / pro mod Corvette ZR1


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#1 nhra1625

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 09:08 PM

Hey, I'm new here but not new to models. I have wanted to rip this vette up for awhile and finally just did it. Do here is everything from the start to current state.

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#2 nhra1625

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 09:08 PM

Anything? I understand I'm new around here but I do need some help from more experienced people...

Am I even doing the cage right? If not then how can I fix it? The only ref I have is my dad's friends 41 willys pro mod and that only helps with general placement.

#3 W-409

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:10 AM

I'm not a ProMod type of guy, even if I have one in progress, but I think it looks really good so far! I can't say any bad words of it, really nice. Just remember to add the window net once you get the cage painted. B)  What engine you are going to use?

 

Oh and you can find good reference from those ProMod builds in here. Here are few I have used on mine.

http://www.modelcars...showtopic=48179

http://www.modelcars...ic=67869&page=1

http://www.modelcars...showtopic=46538

http://www.modelcars...showtopic=56886

http://www.modelcars...showtopic=61587

 

Hope this helps.


Edited by W-409, 05 February 2013 - 12:20 AM.


#4 nhra1625

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 03:20 AM

Thanks, I was actually reffing the other zr1 builds but it seems I've gotten to the point where I am ahead of them.

I ordered my hood scoop last night so depending on howthat looks I might go with a nitrous 732 I have or I will just do a twin turbo big block that I have laying around. If all else fails I'm going 500 cui blown hemi.

Pete

#5 Marty "Hatchet"

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:46 PM

Looks to me like you're doing just fine Pete! I love the chassis so far!

 

I'm planning a new style pro mod (it will be my first of this type) and I found enough reference pics on line to pretty much build it as detailed as I could possibly want. There's definitely a pile of work involved in these cars so my hat is off to anyone who attempts the challenge!

 

I'll be watching  ;)

 

Marty



#6 brett

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:20 PM

Pete, replies can be a little slow coming around here so dont worry about it to much. To be picky, your cage bars look a little big and to all be the same size, you also need a few more bars. BUT before you or anyone else comes down on me............ for a first timer I think your cage looks pretty good and fits the interior of the car beautifully. Check out PROSTREET'S, Doomcrew's or Tyrone's builds (or mine if you're desperate lol) and you'll get a better idea on what bars to put where, these guys also usually tell you what size bars they are using too, though but 1.6mm styrene rod is the most common with 1.2mm for smaller bars. hope this helps a bit dont stress it, just enjoy yourself. Looking forward to seeing more from you

 Brett



#7 nhra1625

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:54 PM

I have many years of hands on experience with pro mods as I grew up with them. I just am getting the hang of the styrene. I spent what I had left in cash on the rods and got what they had left(not much) but it works for me. I still gotta start the tin work and find some smaller tubing for some braces. Then once my hood scoop gets here I can get started on the front half. I need the scoop for fitment lol.

Thanks guys!

#8 gonzo64nova

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 05:24 AM

nhra1625 you look like your off to a great start, I second what Brett said about the tubing sizes, they are usually .060 or .080 and smaller for gussets in 1/25th scale. I always fish-mouth my tubing with a small round file for a better fit. Your wing looks great ! There are plenty of Outlaw 10.5 and Pro /Mod style builds on this forum that you could use for reference. Just keep the wheels and tires handy for mocking up your ride height so it doesnt get too low or too high. I usually make some sort of blocks (pop-sickle sticks or styrene) to sit the chassis on to keep checking the ride height and header clearance if your not going to make them go thru the front fenders. Hope some of this helps, just ask if you need more help, the builders on this forum are some of the best.

#9 nhra1625

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 08:39 AM

Yea I am fish mouthing my tubing but it's kinda hard for me because I've always had minimal tools for models. I have only ever had the basic Testors paints and the 99 cent spray paint from home depot. I'm trying to get new tools and supplies though. When I do I will rebuild the vette probably...

#10 nhra1625

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 06:52 PM

Started the motor. I found a decent BBC block with nice heads in my parts box so I got valve covers off one of my pro stock motors and filled the "Pontiac" in them and this is basically the mock up of the basics. I'm still trying to find my dry sump system lol.

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Edited by nhra1625, 06 February 2013 - 06:52 PM.


#11 gonzo64nova

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 09:03 AM

nhra1625 if you want to invest in some tools I would suggest a Dremel tool first, it can be used with numerous bits to do pretty much anything you need. I buy extra bits at Home Depot and I couldnt do without mine it saves me hours of sanding sometimes. Another tip is to hook the Dremel in series with a dimmer switch,that allows you to turn it really slowly so you dont melt the plastic and gives you greater control of how much material you remove. Hope this helps!

#12 nhra1625

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 10:40 AM

I actually do have both of those. I just can't find the dimmer switch lol. I don't really like to use it because I don't really have the most steady hands in the world. I'm gonna try some stuff on an old body first before I try using it again.

Thanks

#13 gonzo64nova

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 04:00 AM

I actually do have both of those. I just can't find the dimmer switch lol. I don't really like to use it because I don't really have the most steady hands in the world. I'm gonna try some stuff on an old body first before I try using it again.

Thanks


I just used a dimmer switch from Home Depot, works like a charm. I brace my hand holding the Dremel against the edge of the table top and rest my other hand ,forearm and the piece Im grinding on the table top. Hope this helps

#14 nhra1625

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 03:35 PM

Thanks, ill try that!

 

In other news my scoop came in! I didnt expect it to get here so fast but I love it. My first ever resin piece and I gotta admit, I am impressed. I think i want to try casting some stuff.

 

Pics to come later



#15 TedsModeling

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:34 AM

Peter - Are you doing any body mods or is the body pretty much done?

Also, what is the material you used for the firewall?

 

Bill - I've always searched for a Dremel speed control and wondered why they don't make one. Even at its slowest speed the thing is whirling too fast. Is your dimmer switch motor rated?  I'd be afraid of burning up my Dremel.  A light dimmer is made for incandescent bulbs and will reduce the voltage while the motor is made to run on full voltage. Does it start at full speed and then you reduce it?  This might be better for the motor.  How hot does your Dremel get when 'dimmed'?  I might try a ceiling fan speed control.  I wonder if they make one with full-range control vs. speed steps.  I might have to pull one out of my wall and try it out!



#16 nhra1625

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:15 AM

As far as body mods, I plan to cut the hood to make it slide around the scoop. With the wing I've made I want to mold it in so that will get puttied on. Other than that and the front clip coming off I don't plan anything right now.

For the firewall I used sheet styrene, I'm not sure what thickness because I'm not infront of it right now but it took a few tries to get it right.

Edited by nhra1625, 11 February 2013 - 03:17 AM.


#17 gonzo64nova

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:46 AM

Peter - Are you doing any body mods or is the body pretty much done?
Also, what is the material you used for the firewall?
 
Bill - I've always searched for a Dremel speed control and wondered why they don't make one. Even at its slowest speed the thing is whirling too fast. Is your dimmer switch motor rated?  I'd be afraid of burning up my Dremel.  A light dimmer is made for incandescent bulbs and will reduce the voltage while the motor is made to run on full voltage. Does it start at full speed and then you reduce it?  This might be better for the motor.  How hot does your Dremel get when 'dimmed'?  I might try a ceiling fan speed control.  I wonder if they make one with full-range control vs. speed steps.  I might have to pull one out of my wall and try it out!

Ted, I had heard the same things you did about damaging the Dremel with a light dimmer, so to put all my fears to rest I hooked mine up and have been running it that way for two years with no problems what so ever. It doesnt get hot and you can start the Dremel at what ever speed you set the dimmer switch to. I can turn mine slow enough to count the revolutions if I want to. I think this modification extends the life of the Dremel. Hope this helps- Bill
P.S. Most of the Dremels produced now have a built-in speed controller.

Edited by gonzo64nova, 11 February 2013 - 04:51 AM.


#18 TedsModeling

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 05:08 AM

Thanks, Bill.  I have to try it now.  Can't wait.  I think I even have one in my spare electrical parts.  Mine is a variable speed, but the slowest is 5000 RPM.  I don't see where they make one that goes any slower.



#19 nhra1625

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 07:18 PM

Well...sliced my finger open badly cutting the doors off...looks like I've been halted for a week if it doesn't heal fast. But here's a pic with the new scoop for you guys. I still haven't fitted it how I want it. Scoop should fit lower and not be as big when it's how I want it.

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Edited by nhra1625, 17 February 2013 - 07:22 PM.


#20 nhra1625

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 09:47 PM

Haven't really had much motivation to build lately but tons of motivation to paint...probably from my auto body class...so I said u would just make motor plates and figure out the rest later and got to spraying the chassis. I like it, not my best work but that's ok because it will get detailed nicely(hopefully). I also started on a rear end. Took the one from the pro sportsman belair kit and chopped off the axles and drilled 2 holes in the sides to fit a axle tube and I stole the rims from the Chi-Town hustler along with the axle and I love the fitment/look. Enough words...some pics. Sorry none of the rear end as I forgot to take some earlier

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