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'32 revell ford roadster > ROUGHROD ....


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#21 horsepower

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 09:23 AM

you might think about taking a larger drill bit, & "countersinking" the "speed" holes from the back side, do this by hand slowly just enough to thin out the body shell around the hole to make it look like it's actually sheetmetal.



#22 crazyrichard

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:58 AM

thnx all !!

 

and at horsepower i now what you mean , the ones on the rear need that yes ..and i will def. do that



#23 crazyrichard

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 09:30 AM

well drilled the holes on the rear from behind with a bigger drill like mentioned oabove and now it looks way thinner

the started work on "the interiour"

used a styrene airplain missile as base for the tunnel

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and then shot some holes in them with my ......uuuhhmm drill :)

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on the front at the end of the tunnel i will close it up

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need to sand the inside of every hole with a fine round file , added new smaller seats

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removed the sides that where like arm rests :) cant be too comftable , it needs to go fast not .....

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had a lot of lenght inside so i kept the seats a tad forward instead of right against the rear

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#24 mr.camaro

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 02:19 PM

Very wild! Awesome job I'm loving it.

#25 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:19 PM

well drilled the holes on the rear from behind with a bigger drill like mentioned oabove and now it looks way thinner

the started work on "the interiour"

used a styrene airplain missile as base for the tunnel



and then shot some holes in them with my ......uuuhhmm drill :)

485203_260222140777370_1594730107_n.jpg

on the front at the end of the tunnel i will close it up



need to sand the inside of every hole with a fine round file , added new smaller seats



removed the sides that where like arm rests :) cant be too comftable , it needs to go fast not .....



had a lot of lenght inside so i kept the seats a tad forward instead of right against the rear







 

 

Wow, a lot of work there!  What did you use to keep the holes/starter holes lined up so perfectly?



#26 John Teresi

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:30 PM

Richard.........."Holly Mollie".........nice job on lining up all the holes........looks GREAT!!!!!!!



#27 exesivefire

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:29 PM

Holes look much better after you went in from the back

Cool build

#28 crazyrichard

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 05:53 AM

thnx guys and well to be dead hounest almost every hole i drilled right away with this size drill bit and the lining up was just done by eye , didnt messure or mark them

 

on the rear the only thing i did was draw a straight line and teh spacing was done by eye , the tunnel was just random ...

 

its like i said a few posts back , if i would have messured and marked everything and pre punched it it could have been even tighter ..

but oon parts like a front axle that would be a must , on the body i quite like the slightly rougher look now and the fact it looks more like old fashion hand work instead of going more to the robotic / waterjet look

 

also with the paint and the shading i hope to achieve on the holes i think (hope) it will work out

 

this rod has brought me on great new idea's , in the future i could use this technique with smaller drill bits on parts like brackets or axles , just a tiny bit but it could add a lot to like tha undercarridge of a model

 

but most important of it all i'm having a ton of fun with this build :lol:


Edited by crazyrichard, 14 February 2013 - 05:55 AM.


#29 Ira

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 06:02 AM

GREAT HOLES!!!

 

Love the Trans Tunnel... B)



#30 crazyrichard

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 09:38 AM

thnx :)
 
this update will show it all more as whole i think and now the details and all braces are added it comes alive more

closed the inside of the cab at the end of the tunnel with a sheet of styrene so its now closed inside , that actually stays on the chassis when teh cab comes of same go's for the seats

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fixed the rear axle in place and use the top of the fuel tank that usually go's on top of the chassis on the bottom , that closed
the gap between chassis and body and makes it all smooth.
just shaved the fuelk filler cap of

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then added the trans mount and braces for the axle

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found a cool steering wheel in my partsbox and drilled some holes in the spokes (no i'm not going to count all the holes on this project hahaha)

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still loose in place drilled a new hole in the steering colom brace so the whole assembly can sit more horizontal , looks more racy i guessed

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very very rough dryfit of the ride hight / stance , its dead on its low but still looks drivable to me (?)

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dryfit with the grille , fixed front axle and axle braces

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Edited by crazyrichard, 14 February 2013 - 09:41 AM.


#31 Albie D

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 10:20 AM

Just when you think everything has been done to the venerable 32, you keep innovating new styles... You should plunk a Big Block in this beast. The rat gets the "swiss" cheese!



#32 crazyrichard

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 10:42 PM

hey thnx , well yes that kind of the thing i'm still in doubt about , the engine ..

the original revell engine is too tiny so thats not going in ..

then i do have some lager blocks in the partsbox and one drag racing engine .. those would need to be build up from scratch all just blocks ..

i do have a awsome flathead and that one fits like a glove , i only have to make some mounts for it so it will stay on the right hight..

also i have some real brass stacks that would look cool on some scratch build carbs

dryfit >

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drilled the spark plug holes open

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but like you said a big block could be awsome too , still leaning towards this flathead , i just love them and it fits the theme
with a big block you def. would not need the weightsave from the holes lol
you would have enough power to run it with a massive body right ?

so the flathead being less powerfull would fit with all the speedholes weightsave wise and therefore ....
 



#33 Builder

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 04:03 AM

Looks like a Holy Roller .



#34 blazefox

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 05:10 AM

a 2 or three carb set up on that motor woud give u close to 200 hp r so



#35 crazyrichard

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 06:24 AM

good enough :lol:


first i need to get the bare metal going >

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after spraying it always looks tight , wrubbing it with a cloth will make it come alive and going more towards bare metal , after that a mild sandpaper will really make it .......

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the preshading of the panellines worked awsome from now on i will do it like this , they actually look real dark without becoming all black , also this way i really got it more even and tight then doing it afterwards

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#36 crazyrichard

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 09:04 AM


 


 



this stuff dyes so fast i could already do a dryfit

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the panellines where silver again after drying

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so i went through them with a steel pin and the dark line was back :)

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Edited by crazyrichard, 16 February 2013 - 09:06 AM.


#37 crazyrichard

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:02 AM

and then it became a die-cast :)
nah but i think its so close to a bare metal die-cast car ..
need more detail with some blak

also did some minour imperfection on purpose to give it that bare metal rough look

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#38 kennb

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 11:40 AM

coming together very nicely,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just keeps me thinking of a ham and swiss sammy :D



#39 crazyrichard

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 12:05 AM

well go make one then :lol:



#40 crazyrichard

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 02:33 AM

went over the body with black acrylic paint on a cloth and washed it on and then rubbed of untill i was happy.

then with a tiny pensil i went along the edges with matt black enamel paint and rubbed it of with a cloth leaving some fine lines along the bdylines for added depth

floor inside is matt black , the tunnel now really pops

also did the chassis that was a crime to sand with all the small parts on it

next step some black en chrome detailing on the chassis

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