11 replies to this topic

[roym]

Hi all,

 

Looking for some more help from those who know.

I don't wish to hijack any more threads by others, so I've started my own here. Will take some photos today and post them up later.

 

I've been looking at the pics in the build threads by Camaro73 and dee, and also by looking at photos on timstrucks.com.

 

I think I managed to get the rear axle brackets (and therefore axles) in correctly, but I still need help on the following;

 

My kit was missing one tyre, so I robbed the spare one from my tanker trailer kit. Do AMT have a parts replacement service?

 

Do the air tanks in step 7 attach to the bottom frame rail and hang from there, the underside of the top frame rail and hang from that, or attach to the inside of the frame on the vertical surface?

 

Where exactly do the front shocks attach to the front springs?

 

Does the cab tilt cylinder actually attach to the cab?

 

I can't seem to figure out exactly where the radiator is to make contact with the frame, and in trying to dryfit I had to separate the forward engine mount from the frame at one side in order to get the rad in. I now think the engine bearer may not be aligned correctly. there are two raised lines on the frame that look like locations for the rear of the rad, but they are not square with each other.

 

The rear metal axles are about 15mm too long, or are they supposed to push through the brake drums into the inside of the hubs?

 

Are the rear wheels just supposed to click onto the hubs or be glued wheel to wheel to brake drum? (I can't seem to get the wheel faces to make contact without squashing the tyres).

 

Is there meant to be a second fuel tank mount brace? I can't find one.

 

The steering box can attach at multiple various angles, with no idea which is correct. I haven't got the cab together yet, so i haven't been able to dryfit that yet. I sure mine is attached wrong though.

 

Despite all the above, I am actually enjoying the build, believe it or not. It's a total change of pace for me and has me thinking of a diner/gas station/car park diorama for the future. 

(I need somewhere to display all those Mustang kits).This is the first truck kit I've built since my teens, and only my third ever. I've also got the fruehauf box van trailer on the go for behind the KW.

 

I'm going to go for an owner/operator look, to maximise the chrome bling effect on the truck. I'll have to paint the fuel tanks though, as the seam is too noticeable, but I have a bottle of Alclad chrome and polished aluminium for that. Frame is going to be satin black, still undecided on the cab colour though. Any suggestions?

 

Sorry about all the questions, but these are things I just can't figure out for myself. Pics to follow tomorrow.

Cheers, Roy.

[Doobie]

Hi Roy I hope these pics of my 123's will help you out

 

 bits 001.jpg   124.87K   98 downloads

 bits 002.jpg   101.87K   126 downloads

 bits 003.jpg   125.4K   115 downloads

 bits 004.jpg   112.03K   97 downloads

 bits 005.jpg   95.94K   89 downloads

 bits 006.jpg   117.1K   85 downloads

 bits 007.jpg   122.62K   82 downloads

 bits 008.jpg   93.23K   75 downloads

 bits 009.jpg   94.84K   70 downloads

 bits 010.jpg   118.55K   97 downloads

 bits 011.jpg   117.65K   99 downloads

 bits 012.jpg   90.97K   79 downloads

 bits 013.jpg   88.9K   37 downloads

 

Im not to sure if AMT have a parts service . The air tanks as you can see go on the bottom of the rails

the shocks go into the round holes on top of the spring and there should be holes on the rails you may want to look on the inside of the rail there may be some flash over the holes !  As for the tilt ram theres one on the gray truck and it does not attach to the cab . I think that you should be able to work out exactly where the rad mounts from the pics .You can see in pic 8 that thte axel rods shuld be around 3inch long and they do go into the hubs they dont click in but they do go in about 13mm on each side. The wheel and hubs do glue together as in pic 12 -13 . The fuel tanks should go opposite each other and finaly you can see from pics 1and2 where the steering box is ment to go . As i said I hope this helps you out and you get it all worked out AMT instrutions can be a bit vage . If you need any other pics I would be happy to help you these KW's do biuld into great looking rigs but they can make you curse them

 

Best of luck

 

Dave

[roym]

Dave, thanks a million. Those pics do clear up a lot. Great stuff, cheers.

 

I can't see any holes on top of the springs, but the ones on the frame are there ok. Looks like the spring holes are flashed over. Looks like I have the steering box on right after all.

 

The only other thing I can see is that where I have the rad straight it is almost touching the pins for the cab tilt hinges. So it needs to go further back but I'll have to finish the engine first and fit that, so the fan doesn't  foul the rad.

 

Great fun all the same. and again, thanks for posting up the pics, I'll try to get mine up tomorrow.

 

Cheers,

Roy

[Doobie]

Thats not a problem Roy thats what we are here for to help our fellow modelers . There should be a hole in the bump stop on the spring above the axel 

[Old Albion]

HelloRoy,

 

The AMT instructions are known for not being very clear.  Before starting any vehicle Iike to spend time researching the particular vehicle that I am wanting to build.  One of the best sources of reference for any model truck kit is Tim's website (www.timstrucks.com).  He recently built the K123 and has some good photo's and information about the build check the page below:

 

http://public.fotki....rth-k123-out-o/

 

Dave, 

 

Those two trucks look superb, very impressive, 

[mackinac359]

The metal axles have grown over the years in the reissues.  Not sure why.  I always snip them shorter.

 

There is only one fuel tank crossover pipe brace.

 

Tim

[roym]

Hi all,

 

Here's a few pics of where I'm at...

 

First the sealed bag of tyres. Count 'em, nine there;

 

 

 

Chassis so far; note no holes in the bump stops on top of the springs.

 

 

See the oversized axles!

 

Dodgy radiator positioning;

 

 

 

 

Here's another look at the rear, I'm not sure about the positioning of the track rods (?) but it doesn't affect the axle positioning.

 

and the front engine mount. This is currently only attached on the right side as you look at it, giving me room to play on the left as you look.

Edited by roym, 17 February 2013 - 04:21 AM.

[roym]

I've also made a start on the trailer, this is so much more straightforward, with a lot of model showing after little hours on the bench.

 

I tried a few ideas on the wooden plank floor, mostly without success;

 

I eventually went with some Humbrol dark sand/brown and rubbed over the raised wood grain with a HB pencil at an angle, just like we did in school with coins under paper....

 

 

 

Not the most realistic, but good returns for 4 minutes work.

(Don't know why it looks pink in the photos!)

Edited by roym, 17 February 2013 - 04:18 AM.

[dee]

seems like all the newer amt kit axles are long. just to trim them off to the right length,. as for the radiator fit i had to sand the area where the fan blade goes to get it to set back where it fit for me. hope this helps

Edited by dee, 17 February 2013 - 05:01 AM.

[Johnny]

I find having little adjustments to parts for a better fit still a good trade off for being able to still have these old kits available!

Well worth the extra effort in the end!

[roym]

I agree Johnny, I'm really enjoying this build and wish they'd re-release the KW Conventional and Peterbilt 359 Conventional kits.

[Doobie]

Hi roy WOW you where right about those axel rods being to long there HUGE !!! Im not sure why you dont have holes in the bump stops ? Are you still in need of a tyre I may have some spare ones