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Confused K123 builder..Advice needed :-)


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#1 roym

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:47 AM

Hi all,

 

Looking for some more help from those who know.

I don't wish to hijack any more threads by others, so I've started my own here. Will take some photos today and post them up later.

 

I've been looking at the pics in the build threads by Camaro73 and dee, and also by looking at photos on timstrucks.com.

 

I think I managed to get the rear axle brackets (and therefore axles) in correctly, but I still need help on the following;

 

My kit was missing one tyre, so I robbed the spare one from my tanker trailer kit. Do AMT have a parts replacement service?

 

Do the air tanks in step 7 attach to the bottom frame rail and hang from there, the underside of the top frame rail and hang from that, or attach to the inside of the frame on the vertical surface?

 

Where exactly do the front shocks attach to the front springs?

 

Does the cab tilt cylinder actually attach to the cab?

 

I can't seem to figure out exactly where the radiator is to make contact with the frame, and in trying to dryfit I had to separate the forward engine mount from the frame at one side in order to get the rad in. I now think the engine bearer may not be aligned correctly. there are two raised lines on the frame that look like locations for the rear of the rad, but they are not square with each other.

 

The rear metal axles are about 15mm too long, or are they supposed to push through the brake drums into the inside of the hubs?

 

Are the rear wheels just supposed to click onto the hubs or be glued wheel to wheel to brake drum? (I can't seem to get the wheel faces to make contact without squashing the tyres).

 

Is there meant to be a second fuel tank mount brace? I can't find one.

 

The steering box can attach at multiple various angles, with no idea which is correct. I haven't got the cab together yet, so i haven't been able to dryfit that yet. I sure mine is attached wrong though.

 

Despite all the above, I am actually enjoying the build, believe it or not. It's a total change of pace for me and has me thinking of a diner/gas station/car park diorama for the future. 

(I need somewhere to display all those Mustang kits).This is the first truck kit I've built since my teens, and only my third ever. I've also got the fruehauf box van trailer on the go for behind the KW.

 

I'm going to go for an owner/operator look, to maximise the chrome bling effect on the truck. I'll have to paint the fuel tanks though, as the seam is too noticeable, but I have a bottle of Alclad chrome and polished aluminium for that. Frame is going to be satin black, still undecided on the cab colour though. Any suggestions?

 

Sorry about all the questions, but these are things I just can't figure out for myself. Pics to follow tomorrow.

Cheers, Roy.



#2 Doobie

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 05:40 AM

Hi Roy I hope these pics of my 123's will help you out

 

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Im not to sure if AMT have a parts service . The air tanks as you can see go on the bottom of the rails

the shocks go into the round holes on top of the spring and there should be holes on the rails you may want to look on the inside of the rail there may be some flash over the holes !  As for the tilt ram theres one on the gray truck and it does not attach to the cab . I think that you should be able to work out exactly where the rad mounts from the pics .You can see in pic 8 that thte axel rods shuld be around 3inch long and they do go into the hubs they dont click in but they do go in about 13mm on each side. The wheel and hubs do glue together as in pic 12 -13 . The fuel tanks should go opposite each other and finaly you can see from pics 1and2 where the steering box is ment to go . As i said I hope this helps you out and you get it all worked out AMT instrutions can be a bit vage . If you need any other pics I would be happy to help you these KW's do biuld into great looking rigs but they can make you curse them

 

Best of luck

 

Dave



#3 roym

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 06:38 AM

Dave, thanks a million. Those pics do clear up a lot. Great stuff, cheers.

 

I can't see any holes on top of the springs, but the ones on the frame are there ok. Looks like the spring holes are flashed over. Looks like I have the steering box on right after all.

 

The only other thing I can see is that where I have the rad straight it is almost touching the pins for the cab tilt hinges. So it needs to go further back but I'll have to finish the engine first and fit that, so the fan doesn't  foul the rad.

 

Great fun all the same. and again, thanks for posting up the pics, I'll try to get mine up tomorrow.

 

Cheers,

Roy



#4 Doobie

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 09:31 AM

Thats not a problem Roy thats what we are here for to help our fellow modelers . There should be a hole in the bump stop on the spring above the axel 



#5 Old Albion

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 09:36 AM

HelloRoy,

 

The AMT instructions are known for not being very clear.  Before starting any vehicle Iike to spend time researching the particular vehicle that I am wanting to build.  One of the best sources of reference for any model truck kit is Tim's website (www.timstrucks.com).  He recently built the K123 and has some good photo's and information about the build check the page below:

 

http://public.fotki....rth-k123-out-o/

 

Dave, 

 

Those two trucks look superb, very impressive, 



#6 mackinac359

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:34 AM

The metal axles have grown over the years in the reissues.  Not sure why.  I always snip them shorter.

 

There is only one fuel tank crossover pipe brace.

 

Tim



#7 roym

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 04:06 AM

Hi all,

 

Here's a few pics of where I'm at...

 

First the sealed bag of tyres. Count 'em, nine there;

 

dash007_zps3b7a96e5.jpg

 

 

Chassis so far; note no holes in the bump stops on top of the springs.

dash017_zpscd09dbd7.jpg

 

dash018_zps0760fc9a.jpg

 

See the oversized axles!

dash019_zps5e6112d5.jpg

 

Dodgy radiator positioning;

dash020_zps50c13450.jpg

 

dash021_zpsf69a490f.jpg

 

dash022_zps7027bcb2.jpg

 

dash023_zpsd18d35f6.jpg

 

Here's another look at the rear, I'm not sure about the positioning of the track rods (?) but it doesn't affect the axle positioning.

dash024_zpsf4a1e25e.jpg

 

and the front engine mount. This is currently only attached on the right side as you look at it, giving me room to play on the left as you look.

dash025_zps0121830b.jpg


Edited by roym, 17 February 2013 - 04:21 AM.


#8 roym

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 04:12 AM

I've also made a start on the trailer, this is so much more straightforward, with a lot of model showing after little hours on the bench.

 

I tried a few ideas on the wooden plank floor, mostly without success;

dash014_zpsa60040da.jpg

 

I eventually went with some Humbrol dark sand/brown and rubbed over the raised wood grain with a HB pencil at an angle, just like we did in school with coins under paper....

dash013_zpsca8b49f1.jpg

 

dash016_zpse7cf583d.jpg

 

dash015_zps9043265f.jpg

 

Not the most realistic, but good returns for 4 minutes work.

(Don't know why it looks pink in the photos!)


Edited by roym, 17 February 2013 - 04:18 AM.


#9 dee

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 05:01 AM

seems like all the newer amt kit axles are long. just to trim them off to the right length,. as for the radiator fit i had to sand the area where the fan blade goes to get it to set back where it fit for me. hope this helps


Edited by dee, 17 February 2013 - 05:01 AM.


#10 Guest_Johnny_*

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 09:11 AM

I find having little adjustments to parts for a better fit still a good trade off for being able to still have these old kits available! B)

Well worth the extra effort in the end! :)



#11 roym

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 10:44 AM

I agree Johnny, I'm really enjoying this build and wish they'd re-release the KW Conventional and Peterbilt 359 Conventional kits.



#12 Doobie

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 02:53 PM

Hi roy WOW you where right about those axel rods being to long there HUGE !!! Im not sure why you dont have holes in the bump stops ? Are you still in need of a tyre I may have some spare ones



#13 roym

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 02:25 PM

Well nearly a year has passed, and I have been working on and off over the last 11 months on the rig. This included painting the cab twice, having had to strip off the first attempt. A lot of the build was spent trying to figure out where everything actually fitted or was meant to fit. I finally discovered that I actually have the chassis out of square, one rail is ever so slightly further forward than the other, coming to note only when I fitted the bumper.

 

I used the idea (from here, sorry can't remember who said it) to glue the grille to the hinges first, and later to glue the cab to the grille. Defo the way to go.

 

It has lots of mistakes, but I'm happy with it, and most of all I enjoyed the challenge, and love the finished result.

 

However, I'm open to constructive critisim (I'm normally a 1/72 aircraft, 1/700 ship and 1/25 car guy) and would like some pointers. I know that the exhaust stacks look out of line in some of the pics, as are one of the tanks and the cab looks slightly tilted sometimes, especially if I don't squeeze the interior back up every time I tilt the cab. The exhaust does not meet the turbo (need to have mounted it lower down I think). The driver grab rails are on upside down. Oh well. I have no idea what I was supposed to do with all the licence plates. I know that more than one should be on but don't know which one is the actual truck plate and what I'm supposed to put on the trailer. I was going for the owner/operator look rather than the fleet scheme that came with the kit. So should I have put the numbering decals on the cab doors?

 

I have the flatbed and chrome Texaco tanker trailer kits and would like to build a couple of conventionals to pull them. However, I can't find the old AMT Peterbilt and Kenworth Conventionals kits that were around when the K123 was out.

 

Are there only the horrendously expensive Movin' On kits on ebay available?

 

Anyway, let me know what you think? Cheers,

Roy

 

 

KenworthK123005_zps427aee5b.jpg


Edited by roym, 13 January 2014 - 02:27 PM.


#14 alangarber

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 02:34 PM

That turned out fine. Looks nice



#15 roym

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 03:08 PM

Some more

KenworthK123009_zps9e2befd1.jpg

#16 roym

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 03:17 PM

KenworthK123019_zpse98fe7c0.jpg

i'll put some more on another thread in the under glass section.

#17 olsbooks

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 04:11 PM

Darn good looking!  That is a fantastic paint job!



#18 clayton

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 02:07 PM

On the wood floor start with light colors then too dark.I did this using plaid. First color kinda thick then the next colors as a wash. thin them down some, brush on let set a min and rub off.if you get lite spots and dark spots no fuss. over the years wood will fade and stain will build up and boards get replaced. So no two are the same.

 

IMG_1922_zps4f428e00.jpg

 

IMG_1921_zpsf7199941.jpg



#19 Piero

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 10:50 AM

Looks very good with the trailer ! :)



#20 Bige37

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 03:47 AM

With the wood grain I use a light tan then a dark wash! You can see what it looks like on my früehauf flatbed that I did in the under the glass or on the work bench! The kit looks good I have been thinking about a conventional kit to build I might try this one! Good job!