12 replies to this topic

[MikeyB08]

Okay. So I've done my research, yet I am still finding myself confused and lost on the subject at hand. I Do Not own an Airbrush, nor do I plan on owning one until I get better at my models (just at the basics right now). Primarily, I'm curious to know which Paint Base is best for detailing the interior's on models. I have some fine tip paint brush's as well as a tackle box full of Sharpies. So... To make a long story short, read below. Please Do Your Best To Leave Airbrushing Out Of This Thread To Cut Confusion.

 

1) Acrylic vs Enamel? No need to go in depth. What do you prefer and why?

 

2) Have you tried both Acrylic and Enamel?

 

3) If thinning is required, what's the best way to measure out paint vs thinner?

 

I know I'm asking a lot that probably requires a 3 Subject Notebook explanation. I'm wanting just a straight forward Yay or Nay for one or the other. But, I will leave that at the Wishful Thinking Door. Any/All insights on the subject would be greatly appreciated. If this topic has been touched on before, I apologize for making a duplicate post. 

[jrherald420]

I use enamel that you can buy from any hobby store, premixed no thinning needed. Only need thinner for cleaning your brush out after use. Enamel covers better than Acrylic, or thats what ive found.

[MikeyB08]

Okay. I've used Testors Enamel paints before and I had a problem with brush strokes showing up. Regardless of how much I tried to clean it up, they would never disappear. Any thoughts or suggestions?  

[mikemodeler]

The Testors Acryl paints seem to work best for me when it comes to interiors. The exception being the silver chrome, where I have found the enamel to cover better. If you are using Sharpies, they might be best for picking up details on dashboards or consoles.

 

I like the Acryl paint because they dry fast and cover well. The clean up is simple and they seem to be thinner than the enamels.

 

I have had an airbrush for years but due to my limited time to build, I find myself using rattle cans and brush paints instead because of the amount of time cleaning it afterwards and familiarity with sprays and brush paints!

 

Edit: I do not seem to have the brush stroke issue with the Acryl that I do with enamels.

Edited by mikemodeler, 19 February 2013 - 03:17 PM.

[MikeyB08]

Basically, my best bet would be to buy some Acrylic & Enamel and really test the two out to see which one suits me better. JrHerald420, the Premixed Enamel you was talking about, does it say on the bottle/jar that it is premixed or anything?

 

 

Also, while I'm thinking about it, has anyone tried the Testors Aerosol Lacquer paint? I ask because I am curious to know how many models I could paint with 3 Ounces! Sounds like a long shot and a waste of money.

Edited by MikeyB08, 19 February 2013 - 03:26 PM.

[mikemodeler]

The Testors enamels come premixed/thinned but pick up some thinner at the same time so you are all set. Depending on where you are in Virginia, there could be a Hobby Lobby or Hobbytown USA nearby and they would have a good selection of Testors enamels and acrylic paints to choose from. 

 

I would get a gloss black and semi-gloss black to start with. Label your paint brushes to keep from mixing them up (enamel and acrylic).

[MikeyB08]

Okay. I've got a Hobby Lobby up in West Virginia about 56 Miles from me. Been meaning to take a drive up there. Just might do it this weekend.

[mikemodeler]

Okay. I've got a Hobby Lobby up in West Virginia about 56 Miles from me. Been meaning to take a drive up there. Just might do it this weekend.

 

Either print out their 40% off coupon or make sure you have a smart phone to locate their coupon online and get your savings!

[MikeyB08]

Will Do! Thanks for the help. Hopefully I can get away from the apparent Highly Noticeable Sharpie Era.     

[oldcarfan]

I don't use an airbrush, so I always use an enamel spray for the base interior color, then use acrylics or cheap craft paints for details. They don't attack the enamel, so there is no running. Also if I make a mistake, then it is easy to wipe off and do over. After I finish, a coat of Dullcote evens out everything and hides streaking. I have some gel pens from Hobby Lobby that work pretty well for details. They also make a white one that works well for whitewall tires. Speaking of coupons, I go to the Hobby Lobby website and get their 40% coupon and save it on my phone to get the discount. Also Michael's stores at least around here honor and match Hobby Lobby coupons.

[mikemodeler]

The Testors lacquers can spray up to a couple of bodies, depending on the kit and how many coats you apply. Personal tastes will dictate how many cars you can get per can. If you buy them at Hobby Lobby, use the coupon!

 

Tower Hobbies is offering free shipping on orders over $25 and they carry a lot of paint, might be cheaper than driving to West Virginia.

[jrherald420]

I can get 2 bodies out of a 3 oz can of lacquer, clear coat takes me 3 - 3 oz cans for every 2 bodies.  Hobby Lobby here the spray paints are 6.29 a can and with the coupon it brings them to 4.00 with tax.

 

If you have to drive 100 miles round trip it would be pointless to go to Hobby Lobby seeing how you can only use the coupon once a day and you would spend 20-25 bucks on fuel.  Places with free shipping will be your best bet.

 

FYI, Hobby Lobby does the 40% coupon online and sometimes has free shipping on any item or like right now its free shipping on a 40.00 or more order, this is the best way to buy models unless you score on Ebay or at a model show. 

Edited by jrherald420, 20 February 2013 - 08:55 AM.

[lanesteele240]

James, dont be so hard on the air brush idea. I started making better models when i started using my A/b. if you dont want to be confused, dont read the next statement. I completly suck at hand brushing but have got tremendous results from my a/b. you get great control of the paint. the rattle cans are great but can cover up details quick. The air brush will fix that with small or large flow and great control. Takes a while to mask every thing off but no brush strokes or way to thick paint.


Sorry i disobeyed your request but here is my oppion on paint
I use mostly tamyia acrylics. Main reason why, time. Acrylics dry faster and cure faster. Gloss enamels take weeks to cure, three days in a dehydrator. Acrylics dont stink as bad. They can be thinned with water, alcohol or brand named thinner. The clean is up cheaper with just water or a bottle of .99 cent rubbing alcohol.
Tamiya has a ton of diffrent colors. Check out their color chart
As for painting bodies, i prefer lacquers