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Corvette C6 Revell


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#21 Tompidom

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 12:59 AM

All these small changes and upgrades make the model a lot better! Keep up the good work!



#22 Jim Whalen

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 03:26 AM

Hi,

Very impressive work on the C6 - I've got one of these in the loft, plus a zr1 that I assume is basically the same kit so I'll be watching this thread carefully! You got lots of general tips as well, so keep up the good work.

Cheers,

Jim

#23 Mauricio Meyer

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 09:39 PM

Hi! a few updates:

 

Exhaust:

ESCAPES_zps44742bff.jpg

COLILLAS_zps458594c1.jpg

 

Flocking:

FLOCKKA_zpsc3b5468b.jpg

FLOCKING_zpseaf939de.jpg

 

Brake discs:

DISCOS_zpsda306fe4.jpg

 

Engine is ready:

MOTORCASI_zps34b5a80b.jpg

 

Fan and air filter:

RADIADOR_zps0082874e.jpg

 

Chassis ready:

EJEATRAS_zps1b54fc68.jpg

EJEDELANTERO_zpsb6d11c4c.jpg

 

More soon!



#24 scalemodelworld

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 11:01 PM

Amazing build. How do you paint the tiny detail like panel lines and "corvette" letters AFTER you've done the main colour??



#25 Len Woodruff

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 01:59 AM

Very nice!



#26 Tompidom

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 05:20 AM

This is getting better and better every update!



#27 Mauricio Meyer

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 09:48 AM

Amazing build. How do you paint the tiny detail like panel lines and "corvette" letters AFTER you've done the main colour??

 

Hi Troy!

 

The panel lines are painted with a flat black "wash": its more or less a drop of black acrylic flat paint and 8 drops of thinner. Once you have your wash mixed apply with a pointed brush, the wash must run throught the panel lines, don´t worry if the wash runs out of the panel line. Some times you have to do this two or three times, depending how deep you want the color.

When the wash is dry remove the excess with a q tip with a little polishing compund (i use tamiya fine compound).

 

Corvette letters  where made:

1. Semi gloss black tamiya acrylic paint.

2. Coat of Ts-13 clear thorugh the airbrush to protect black paint.

3. Another "wash", this time made with red oleum artist paint and spirit.

Apply the red wash, since oleum paints dries in two or three days you have plenty of time to remove excess, in fact it's even easier to do this the next day because the paint is like jelly, again with a q tip this time sunked in spirit, or threbentine remove excess carefully (you don,t want to remove all the paint =)). I chose olium paint because the pigment covers much better that the acrylics wich are a bit transparent. For me the result is better.

 

Hope this helps! =)

 

Len, Tom, thanks for your interest and comments!


Edited by Mauricio Meyer, 15 March 2013 - 09:53 AM.


#28 Art Laski

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 07:35 PM

Great building!

#29 Mauricio Meyer

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 08:50 AM

Hi everybody, A few updates,

 

Finished engine bay:
BAHIA_zps37b1452a.jpg
BAHIA2_zps9fd85721.jpg

 

Painting orange the edge of the lights cover, in order to hide cement bubbles:

BISEL_zps68fe39b9.jpg

 

Micromark punch hole set used to make tiny transparent circles:

PUNCHHOLE_zpsdaa0f32b.jpg

 

It can make circles from 6mm to 1mm aprox:
LENTEMUESTRA_zps99804c05.jpg

 

The little circles were glued inside the lights to achieve a more realistic finish:

LENTES_zps5a736cb1.jpg

 

I started scratch bulding the seat belts locks:
CINTURON_zps086ffe91.jpg



#30 Ford guy

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 09:42 AM

Great looking build. You attention to detail is outstanding. Can't wait to see more.

 

Roy



#31 Mauricio Meyer

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 09:08 PM

Thanks for your comments!

 

Updates to the interiors, hope you like it!

 

INTSEPARADO_zpsdbca7578.jpg

TABLERO_zps69eb49fe.jpg

INSTRUMENTOS_zps2179a888.jpg

CONSOLA_zps5ef24587.jpg

MONTANDO_zps1e147329.jpg

MONTANDO2_zps150756e9.jpg



#32 Gldknght7

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:43 AM

I've never seen that flocking used, question: How do you make the stuff stick to the plastic?



#33 Erik Smith

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:48 AM

That's looking great.  This shows how attention to detail, varying finishes, and adding small details can make a model look close to real - no huge budget on aftermarket stuff needed.  Nice work.



#34 Mauricio Meyer

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 10:59 AM

I've never seen that flocking used, question: How do you make the stuff stick to the plastic?

 

Hi Douglas!

I use white glue with a little water, brush it on the surface and add the flocking. Here a very nice tutorial by Alex Kustov, shure he explain it better than i do!

 

http://www.italianho...ng/flocking.htm



#35 Mauricio Meyer

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 11:02 AM

That's looking great.  This shows how attention to detail, varying finishes, and adding small details can make a model look close to real - no huge budget on aftermarket stuff needed.  Nice work.

 

Thanks Erik, yes, i totally agree!



#36 Duntov

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:45 PM

I am really liking this build....  attention to detail and workmanship is first rate!!!!



#37 Dragfreak

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:51 PM

Beautiful work!



#38 slusher

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:54 PM

Excellent detail and work...



#39 Gldknght7

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 03:09 PM

 

Hi Douglas!

I use white glue with a little water, brush it on the surface and add the flocking. Here a very nice tutorial by Alex Kustov, shure he explain it better than i do!

 

http://www.italianho...ng/flocking.htm

Actually your explanation makes perfect sense to me.  I used a similar technique to lay down felt carpet in a van model and a station wagon model back in the late 70's.  I think I remember mixing the white glue with Testors tube cement.



#40 kangee

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 10:27 AM

Awesome work. We can learn a lot of scale building through your WIPs ;)