20 replies to this topic

[Nitro Neil]

I stopped using model cement completely about a year ago. Now I only use superglues. Anyone else?

[Erik Smith]

About 90% super glue for me. I even use it for body filler. I use model glue sparingly and only if I need to adjust something as it dries, and dries...

[Tom Geiger]

I haven't used model glue in years.   I pretty much use Zap-a-Gap for everything except the Microscale stuff for windows and lenses.  I'll also use clear paint to put photo etch onto paint jobs

[mnwildpunk]

I use it very very little now only if I need to fiddle with before I place it. CA for me now and white glue for windows

[Nitro Neil]

Yeah Tom, I use Future for photoetched now.

 

I haven't even touched my model cement this winter's model building season.

 

Dave, I'm using Elmer's Clear glue for windows, it dries even clearer than their white glue.

Edited by Nitro Neil, 01 March 2013 - 02:57 PM.

[Steve Milberry]

super glue and laquer thinner for most things and Tamiya clear acrilyc for clear parts for me. 

[G Holding]

Extra thin Tamiya  and Tenax for me, with a side of Zap a Gap

[Ace-Garageguy]

I use whatever is most appropriate for the particular application.

[Ramfins59]

Hey Neil, how are ya..??  By model cement do you mean the tube glue we used last century..??  I haven'y used that stuff in about 20 years.  I use non-fogging CA glue about 90% of the time.  I use Tenax or Tamiya  for "welding" plastic, Elmer's for glass, clear enamel for PE stuff, and 2 part epoxy now and then for "tough" holding power and also for making clear lens covers for dash gauges.

[Foxer]

I use whatever is most appropriate for the particular application.

 

Me too

[Swamp Dog]

i didnt know they still made that stuff.. ca's glue and plastic weld...

[Austin T]

Yeah Tom, I use Future for photoetched now.

 

I haven't even touched my model cement this winter's model building season.

 

Dave, I'm using Elmer's Clear glue for windows, it dries even clearer than their white glue.

I bought a bottle of their clear glue and mine takes at least double the time for set up. Mine also didn't hold a good bond,so I switched back to elmers white glue,I use that stuff for so many things.

[Jamez]

For all you people using mainly CA, what type and how are you applying it?

Edited by Jamez, 01 March 2013 - 08:44 PM.

[1972coronet]

Tamiya orange cap glue for at least 70% of the build ; green cap Tamiya for a few clamped-together assemblies , and  ; Cyanoacrylate for "quick" assemblies and adhesion (in es , parts that I don't want for them to have a cold chemical weld due to one or more pieces being thin) .

I've also used clear RTV silicone for installing windshield , backlight , lenses , ( especially the windshields of convertibles !) and other pieces that I feel need some flexibility .

 

I haven't used the typical tube-type glues in absolutely years ! It's such garbage ; way too messy ( I like how the glue continues to leech-out of the applicator no matter how quickly  you reinstall the cap !) .

[Nitro Neil]

Hi Rich, going to NNL East?

 

 

By "model cement" I mean any cement that works by melting the plastic and welding the parts together, whether it comes out of a tube or any of the liquid forms.

 

So it seems that at least some of you are still using some form of it.

 

For CA glues I use two main versions.

 

I use LocTite Precision for most stuff. It is liquid but a little thicker than the "thin" stuff so it doesn't run all over the place when I put it on a surface. That little extra bit of viscosity also helps fill any gaps in the seam and allows me to smooth the seams nicely once the glue has hardened. It's also available at any hardware store so it's easy to find when I run out.

 

For really tight seams, or for places where I want the glue to run and fill the seam by capillary action, I use Great Planes Thin CA glue.

 

I also use Great Planes CA accelerator ("zip kicker") sometimes to speed things up. I buy the big bottle and put some in a old Testors enamel paint jar. Then I dip a flat wooden toothpick into the zip kicker and quickly touch it to the glue on the parts. That's all it takes to kick the CA glue and mark it hard and that also avoids the kicker from running somewhere it doesn't belong.

 

I also use the Squadron Precision Glue Applicator whenever I need to be able to control exactly where the glue goes and how much glue I need. They cost 8-9 bucks but they are worth it. I store it in a old olive jar with a little acetone to clean the CA glue off the tip between uses.

Edited by Nitro Neil, 02 March 2013 - 03:47 AM.

[Ramfins59]

Hi Neil.  Yes, I will be at NNL East... I wouldn"t miss it.  Hopefully we"ll run into each other there.

 

James, I use the non-fogging CA glue from a LHS.  It's called Super Gold but I'm sure you can find another brand in your area.  I put a couple of drops on a waxed paper plate and use a wooden toothpick to apply it to the parts being joined.  I also use Zip Kicker the same way when I want the glue to harden NOW.

[Deathgoblin]

I use the Testors liquid glue in places where it would be something stressed.  I should probably switch to something a little tougher like Tenax.  I usually use superglue for the rest just because of speed issues. 

[jaydar]

I was 100% superglue for a short while. I have since returned to more of a balance. For all main structures, i use both ambroid liquid glue to soften the mating surfaces plus testors liquid. This creates an icredibly strong bond.

Joe.

[Tom Geiger]

Another good option for attaching glass... someone on a board mentioned this and it has worked well for me...    From Michaels,   Recollections brand Double sided tape.  It's clear and strong. It comes in several widths. I'm looking at the 1/8" wide right now.   On the back it says  "Distributed by Michaels Stores" so it might be their own brand.    I've attached the last few windshields with it.

[Pro Wrench]

Hey Neil, how are ya..??  By model cement do you mean the tube glue we used last century..??  I haven'y used that stuff in about 20 years.  I use non-fogging CA glue about 90% of the time.  I use Tenax or Tamiya  for "welding" plastic, Elmer's for glass, clear enamel for PE stuff, and 2 part epoxy now and then for "tough" holding power and also for making clear lens covers for dash gauges.

 

Been at least 30 for me. As far as I'm concerned that stuff is only for kids under about 10 years old that are just to young not to make glue bombs. I use Zap, Flexi-I-File plastic weld (same stuff as Tenax), epoxy, and whatever clear drying I have on had for windows. I don't use the thin Zap to much because it's to hard to control but when I do I apply it with a Flex-I-File CA applicator or a toothpick. For the thicker Zap I use gluing tips from Model Master that I modify to fit the bottle. For the plastic weld, I use a touch and flow applicator or a brush depending on how big the piece is that I am trying to weld.