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1933 MG K3 build challenge


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#21 kennb

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 04:55 AM

Eric...thanks for joining in.....take your time in catching up. I am taking a lot of time between parts to give everyone plenty of time to complete each part.

Section 2....wire wheel template.

YOU WILL NEED A 6 1/2 " SQUARE BOARD some brades a straight edge and pencil.

DSCN3778_zpsafe22143.jpg

start buy dividing the board into 4 sections like a pie, then 8 sections. when you have eight sections divide each into 3 sections. this will give you 32 sections. you can do muliples of 2..i.e. 28,30,32,,,,,,,,32 seems to work the best for me.

then at the center build it up with 2 or 3 pieces of .40 sheet plastic and put a small finish nail in the center. the othe pegs are alignment pegs that will be determined by the size of wire wheel. we will get into that next. this may take a few hours to get right,,,,take your time and be patient,

thanks for following

Kenn



#22 kennb

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:43 AM

Section 3 three      Now lets get to lacing.

You will need to make the center hub and 2 rings,one round rod and one flat. the center hub can be made in a few parts. This is the part that will slide onto the axels. The rings are cut to length to go inside the tires we made and superglued and let sit over night. I use some wax paper as a barrier between the tire and ring we are glueing. This keeps them from adhearing to the tires permently. :P use strands of speaker wire...wire from electrical cords is too heavy.

 

DSCN3642_zps857bd1d7.jpg

 

 

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Notice the center of the lacing board is built up. I have since added centering pegs so each wire is the same and the outer(flat) ring will center over the rod ring easier.

Start to lace by tying off a wire and going to the center , around the center counter clockwise and to peg 3 ( skipping ever other peg) and continue around. You may want to tape every few laces as you go. Plull the wire snugg but not tight.

 

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Again i used wax paper in the center wher we are glueing to reduce the chances of glueing everything to the lacing board. :)

the second row of lacing goes to the pegs you skipped on the first round, again ever other peg is used so that when you have all the laces done each peg is used.

 

DSCN3718_zpsfde42b71.jpg

 

The whole thing is taped down so all the wires have contact with the rod, sparingly super glue around the wires and set the outer ring in place and hold down tight for about 1 minute, then put a weight over the top untill the super glue sets, about 1 hour,

 

This should take about an hour for the first wire...you may want to do a few to get the hang of things before you do the finals.

 

Have fun :D

 

Kenn :)


Edited by kennb, 24 March 2013 - 03:33 AM.


#23 blunc

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 12:32 AM

excellent tutorial, couldn't have done it better myself.  :)



#24 Tony T

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 03:32 AM

So, the first go around goes to the lower part of the hub and the second go around goes to the upper part of the hub? I may have to go find a piece of wood to try this out! I do want to participate, but I have a few older projects that I am trying to clear from the queue!

#25 kennb

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 04:00 AM

Tony...yes that is the procedure...this picture should clearify it better.....thank you for the comments and questions. Also,,there is no time limit on this challenge. If it takes 6 months it is fine.

 

DSCN3700_zpsb0a760ec.jpg

 

I would like others to post pictures of their progress tho. :rolleyes:

 

Kenn :)



#26 kennb

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 01:49 AM

For those that have not followed the origional build, here is a picture of what we will end up with on this challenge,

 

SANY1919_zpsa2dacc14.jpg

 

So follow along and take each step and you will have a similar finished model. :rolleyes:

 

Kenn :)



#27 wisdonm

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 03:00 AM

Little help please. I do not understand how the hub is built up and where the laces should go.



#28 kennb

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 03:50 AM

Glad you asked about the hub.

I use 3/16" tube since it fits over the .80 axel shfts nicely. You will also need a tbe that slips over the 3/16" tube. The one I have is a little large so I insert some .20 shim inside.

you will cut thin waffer of the larger tube to slip over the 3/16"

 

DSCN4158_zps2e9dde55.jpg

 

The finished hub is about 3/8" long.  Notice the recesses cut into each end of the tube with a small rat tail file, and the waffer in the center. Note that I do this all before the hub is cut off the long tube since it is easier to work. :blink:

 

DSCN4159_zps69612ddf.jpg

 

with some fileing on the center waffer with a flat file you will have a hub. Take your time and let the glue set sufficently and work the fileing slowly so you dont over do it. :huh:

 

Read this.

One more note...I inserted a small finish nail in the center of the lacing board since it is more stable than a plastic shaft. It is from the back side with the point coming through to make it easier for the hub to slip over. build up the nail with bits of masking tape it the nail is too small for the hub..This is a simplified hub from shown previously.

 

If you have more questions or I missed the mark on the answer please let me know I will walk you through the entire hub process slower.... :)

 

Kenn :)


Edited by kennb, 26 March 2013 - 03:51 AM.


#29 Lunajammer

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 06:17 AM

I love following this Kenn. It's more involved than I can give it this time but if you don't mind I'd like to bookmark this page. I'd love to come back and try a wheel wiring like this for a future project. Keep it up, it's fascinating.



#30 kennb

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 06:49 AM

By all means bookmark the thread......If you dont have time now you might later.....Thank you for following..........................I am lacing s set of wires right now for the TA-Q I am starting......................... -_-

 

Kenn :)



#31 kennb

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 01:41 PM

section 4,,,frame rails coming in on Sunday.................. :rolleyes:

 

Kenn :)



#32 Pro Wrench

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 03:04 PM

Kenn, when you order plastic from U.S. Plastics, do they always ship via UPS? I was looking at ordering some but the shipping was about twice the price of the plastic.



#33 kennb

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 03:50 PM

I always have them ship UPS...it is only a few dollars.......the USPS is too expensive......there should be that option when you check out but you have to select that option i think.

I am going to be ordering also this next week.....

 

I picked up some evergreen sheets today,,,,one pack should build this model if you want to go that way.


Edited by kennb, 29 March 2013 - 03:51 PM.


#34 kennb

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 04:00 PM

I just went to order....they have really uped their shipping since the last I order in august...................................sheesh



#35 kennb

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 05:58 AM

I guess it all comes down to biting the bullet and getting what you need.I am not sure what a kit is anymore but I am sure they are at least $20..for anything. The first kit I bought was $1.98,,,,,,,tells how old I am for sure....................... :lol: . I used to have a big model railroad and engines were $100 on up. It all boils down to getting what you need to produce what you want. I spent over $100 this weekend on things but I know I will not need anything for a while..enuff plastic for about 20 cars or more.........and glue for a few weeks of fun. If you look at it that wat there is really little cost to this hobby unless you get a lot of after market thigns for your builds. :PStill, one sheet of plastic that you can build about 10 cars with for the price of one kit...................well This is how I look at the cost of the materials anyway. ^_^ 

 

Kenn :)



#36 kennb

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 08:01 AM

Section 4

 

Start with some .40 plastic and layout the paper copy of the chassis on one edge. Carefully cut out one rail piece. Using this as a guide glue it to the plastic and cut around it, 2 times, until you have 3 pieces glued together. B)

 

DSCN4169_zpsbb68e5b9.jpg

 

l piece. Using this as a guide glue it to the plastic and cut around it, 2 times, until you have 3 pieces glued together. Then spot glue to the plastic and do anoother 3 pieces glued together. Now you have a stack of 6 frame rails in groups of 3. File them smooth on the cut edges so that they are smooth and finished. Drill 3 holes (.80) through all 6 pieces. and seperate into 2 rails 3 pieces thick. Using cut .80 rod you can now assemble the rough frame. At each end file with round file for .80 rod at the front and back.let all the rods run wild at this time as they will be cut to length later. :blink:

 

DSCN4170_zps3899bf2e.jpg

 

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The cleaner you do this section the better since it will save time later,,One trick is to let everthing overnight set up prior to filing smooth. This section should take a total of 45 minutes actual work time. :huh:

 

If you have any questions on this or previous section please let me know so I can clearify any problems at this time.

 

Next time we will do the front and rear axels and rough cut the firewall.... I have a nice jig for the front axel that will make it square and even. :rolleyes:

 

Kenn :)



#37 kennb

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 03:33 AM

Section 5

Front axel and springs.

DSCN4252_zps4b7afb60.jpg

 

 

The front axel can be made in a jig like above. The .80 is heated at one end and formed to one end and then repeated for the other, it is a little tricky and may take a few trys. The other way is to bend the .80 with a pair of needle nose pliars to get the shaoe, either way will get the accommplihed effect. The rear axel is just 2 pieces of a  5/16 tube and a short piece of 716 tube. you can use what you have on hand.

 

DSCN4253_zpsde2fa919.jpg

 

 

 

 

The leaf springs are no more than a series of short pieces .20  cut to size derived from the drawings and glued together and bent a little to get the curve.

 

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The last picture shows them in place on the Bentley.

 

Next we will assemble the chassis and wheels.

If you have any questions let me know so I can clearify any point.

Kenn :)


Edited by kennb, 14 April 2013 - 03:35 AM.


#38 kennb

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 05:17 AM

Section 6

 

Frame assmebly

 

DSCN3831_zps396f5a1b.jpg

 

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Will post more later

 

Kenn :)



#39 Tony T

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 02:19 PM

This is great, Kenn! Keep it going. I'll jump in one of these days! :) or months...



#40 BMX Addicts

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:38 PM

One day when I grow up, I would love to do a build from scratch...  Awesome stuff!!!