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1933 MG K3 build challenge


kennb

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Glad you asked about the hub.

I use 3/16" tube since it fits over the .80 axel shfts nicely. You will also need a tbe that slips over the 3/16" tube. The one I have is a little large so I insert some .20 shim inside.

you will cut thin waffer of the larger tube to slip over the 3/16"

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The finished hub is about 3/8" long. Notice the recesses cut into each end of the tube with a small rat tail file, and the waffer in the center. Note that I do this all before the hub is cut off the long tube since it is easier to work. :blink:

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with some fileing on the center waffer with a flat file you will have a hub. Take your time and let the glue set sufficently and work the fileing slowly so you dont over do it. :huh:

Read this.

One more note...I inserted a small finish nail in the center of the lacing board since it is more stable than a plastic shaft. It is from the back side with the point coming through to make it easier for the hub to slip over. build up the nail with bits of masking tape it the nail is too small for the hub..This is a simplified hub from shown previously.

If you have more questions or I missed the mark on the answer please let me know I will walk you through the entire hub process slower.... :)

Kenn :)

Edited by kennb
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By all means bookmark the thread......If you dont have time now you might later.....Thank you for following..........................I am lacing s set of wires right now for the TA-Q I am starting......................... -_-

Kenn :)

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I always have them ship UPS...it is only a few dollars.......the USPS is too expensive......there should be that option when you check out but you have to select that option i think.

I am going to be ordering also this next week.....

I picked up some evergreen sheets today,,,,one pack should build this model if you want to go that way.

Edited by kennb
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I guess it all comes down to biting the bullet and getting what you need.I am not sure what a kit is anymore but I am sure they are at least $20..for anything. The first kit I bought was $1.98,,,,,,,tells how old I am for sure....................... :lol: . I used to have a big model railroad and engines were $100 on up. It all boils down to getting what you need to produce what you want. I spent over $100 this weekend on things but I know I will not need anything for a while..enuff plastic for about 20 cars or more.........and glue for a few weeks of fun. If you look at it that wat there is really little cost to this hobby unless you get a lot of after market thigns for your builds. :PStill, one sheet of plastic that you can build about 10 cars with for the price of one kit...................well This is how I look at the cost of the materials anyway. ^_^

Kenn :)

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Section 4

Start with some .40 plastic and layout the paper copy of the chassis on one edge. Carefully cut out one rail piece. Using this as a guide glue it to the plastic and cut around it, 2 times, until you have 3 pieces glued together. B)

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l piece. Using this as a guide glue it to the plastic and cut around it, 2 times, until you have 3 pieces glued together. Then spot glue to the plastic and do anoother 3 pieces glued together. Now you have a stack of 6 frame rails in groups of 3. File them smooth on the cut edges so that they are smooth and finished. Drill 3 holes (.80) through all 6 pieces. and seperate into 2 rails 3 pieces thick. Using cut .80 rod you can now assemble the rough frame. At each end file with round file for .80 rod at the front and back.let all the rods run wild at this time as they will be cut to length later. :blink:

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The cleaner you do this section the better since it will save time later,,One trick is to let everthing overnight set up prior to filing smooth. This section should take a total of 45 minutes actual work time. :huh:

If you have any questions on this or previous section please let me know so I can clearify any problems at this time.

Next time we will do the front and rear axels and rough cut the firewall.... I have a nice jig for the front axel that will make it square and even. :rolleyes:

Kenn :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Section 5

Front axel and springs.

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The front axel can be made in a jig like above. The .80 is heated at one end and formed to one end and then repeated for the other, it is a little tricky and may take a few trys. The other way is to bend the .80 with a pair of needle nose pliars to get the shaoe, either way will get the accommplihed effect. The rear axel is just 2 pieces of a 5/16 tube and a short piece of 716 tube. you can use what you have on hand.

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The leaf springs are no more than a series of short pieces .20 cut to size derived from the drawings and glued together and bent a little to get the curve.

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The last picture shows them in place on the Bentley.

Next we will assemble the chassis and wheels.

If you have any questions let me know so I can clearify any point.

Kenn :)

Edited by kennb
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Section 7

Time to start the body work for the K3........Tape or glue lightly the pattern to plastic and cout out one side,,,,,,tack glue and cut the second side,

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sand them so they are the same and seperate.

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cut the rear panel and firewall per the pattern. and glue together...

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I used some small corner blocks to hold the back in place and square.

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Will get to the cowel next section. take your time and let this set up overnight at least before progessing.. :)

Thanks for joining in and following the challenge. :rolleyes:

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I spend a lot of time searching out drawings. I use the search engines and use the car name and drawings,,(i usually use the images option),,,it gets some information,,,,,

also use blueprints.com as a starting place. They are heavy on the exotics and rarities and newer cars. Color schemes are harder but if you type in the car name and use the images option you can glean some information there.

Older cars that are popular have more information posted than obscure cars......I will search for hours sometimes and get very littlee but each piece is saved and then assembled. The K3 has so much information on line that it was an easy one,,,I also have a lot of drawings for the K3 in my own collection of books and prints, so it was a no brainer....If you check out my current Scrathing the Surface build thread I go throw creating plans when I cant find any......that is in the model cars section, currently I am working on a 1936 Bentley with no drawings but show how to get what you need to build a car.

There is also a lot of intuition and base knowledge that is used in building something from scratch when you have little to go from.

I hope that helps some..

Thank you for the questions....

Edited by kennb
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Section 8

fitting the cowel

This is the hardest part of the model and you need to gently heat the part several times to get it to work.

cut a piece over size and cut slowly as you go.

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you can clean up kncks and cracks later as long as they are small.

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this takes a lot of time to do so dont rush it. You may have to do several times to get it right.

Edited by kennb
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Section 9

Radiator shell

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using the drawings ofr size and shape cit the .40 plastic glue up,clamp and let dry

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cut flange for the inside ...sand to shape comparing to the drawings regularly

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cut oversize piece of .40 for the face.

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cut out opening.

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If you have questions or suggestions be sure to post comment......I can post additional information at any time.

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