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Glue/Cement , and body filler question


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#1 CrazyGirl

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 06:48 PM

i have to order some glue/cement and body filler , the filler is for touching up the body and stuff before paint , not for major mods ,, so what are the very best best glues/cement and filler i should buy , thanks ,



#2 Mooneyzs

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 07:08 PM

Anne... I would Recommend for glues.... Weld-on #3 for bare plastic (it is similar to Tenax and pro ambroid) It used to be bottled for the hobby industry and in hobby shops but seems they went away long ago. I personally buy mine from different plastics shops in either pints or quart sizes and you save money buying it in a bulk size like that versus a 4oz bottle. I would also recommend Zap a Gap CA glue. and you may want some Kicker for it but you don't need it. For gluing things like clear head lights, tail lights and windshields in I use Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear. It is a white glue somewhat like elmers but It dries crystal clear. 5 min expoy is also good to have for gluing different pieces together too. For body fillers I highly recommend the 2 part fillers like Bondo or Evercoat. you can purchase bondo in a tube with hardner from local automotive stores. The evercoat brand is found in automotive auto body supply shops. I personally don't really care for any of the hobby putty's but I have seen people here use it and never have trouble with it. some of them shrink over time. And I personally use all PPG and House Of Kolor base coat/clear coat paints on my builds for the bodies. You may need to try a few of the putty's to see which you like working with best.



#3 my80malibu

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 08:20 PM

Anne try to minimize the use of filler when you can.For example if you are fillng a hole, use some stretched sprue glued in place then cut and sanded. or if you are filling a seam carve it out some fill it with strip plastic, use the Tenax,Ambroid, Weld on, or whatever you have to soften, and melt the strip in place. After they dry they sand out just fine. You can Improvise a little and use superglue mixed with a little baking soda, make a paste out of it,smear some on,sand when dry, and it works well. 



#4 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 09:19 PM

I use filler as a last resort and only to fill in deepscratches. I use 3M spot glazing putty. I use different glues for different chores in modeling and some adhesives I use aren't even glue. For general gluing of most things I use a gap filler and the appropriate size paintbrush. Alot of folks don't realise, they can use a standard hair paintbrush in gap filling liquid glues without harming the brush or the glue then use the brush later to paint. I use a triple zero brush to glue down a distributor, but i'll use a #1 to glue block halves together. It keeps from getting too much glue on a small part like the distributor and turning it into an abstract shape. These glues actively seek out the gaps between parts, wickes it's way into the gap and makes friends. Basically it melts both sides and welds them together.

For mounting resin parts and certain plastic parts i'll use Duro super glue gel and toothpicks. I plan the evening when I can get the most superglue gelling done. I apply the gel to resin parts or things like bumper mounts where another glue would need time to set. I use the toothpicks to place the glue. It gives me more control over it and where it goes and gives a cleaner build. I never squeeze the bottle and put the tip near the model! You will get a blob somewhere on the model you don't want. Use the toothpicks.

I will occaisionally get nostalgic and use Testors tube glue. Things like the Tom Daniels VANDAL, i'll build entirely with testors tube glue and the things we used in the seventies to detail models.

Another glue is micro crystal clear from Microscale. It can be used (with mucho practice) to make windows, guage covers, adhere windows, light lenses all without leaving a visible trace. I highly recommend it but stir it every now and then and add a drop of distilled water.

Finally, if i'm working with things like trim or body script's in p.e., I brush the backside of the p.e. emblems with pledge with Futureshine and stick them in place. Then I wait fully one hour, go back and airbrush on a light coat of Future on the car and walk away. I air on my Future at 20-25 psi, unthinned. You can thin it but there's no need to. Then walk away till this time tomorrow.

 

 There are places where you might find it appropriate to use paint to affix something or you might figure out an all new way. I'm sure others here have had different experiences and have or do use other glues. The best thing to do is learn all the glues and all the examples of where to use them and what they all do. Before long when unique problems come up, you'll know without doubt right off which glue you need. After a while it just comes natural.

P.S. I also use the gell to glue spark plug wires in a distributor.

 

Chris- I have tried the zap-a-gap and similar glues in the past, but I just played hell keeping the nozzle from clogging up.


Edited by MAGNUM4342, 22 March 2013 - 09:23 PM.


#5 CrazyGirl

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 01:33 AM

great tips guys , Kevin , what brand of gap filler glue ???


Edited by CrazyGirl, 23 March 2013 - 01:34 AM.


#6 W-409

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 03:31 AM

Personally I like tho use Super Glue for almost everything, but when I'm scratchbuilding parts or doing some modifications to plastic where's no paint, I like to use Tamiya's, Model Masters' or Plastruct's Liquid glues. They make very strong "welds". Then I use Revell and Humbroll glues sometimes, and white Glue for windows, small chrome parts etc.

 

For filler, I like to use Two Part Bondo that's used on 1:1 cars when I'm doing bigger modifications, but for smaller ones I think Green Putty and White Putty work really nicely. It's made by Squadron. It is very easy to sand and it works nicely with smaller modifications. Or then I use Automotive Filler Spray. There are many different makes and manufacturers, and they might be different in here than what you have there. I bet there are many more, but I have managed with these.

 

Hope This Helps. :D



#7 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 10:08 AM

Another CA product to consider is Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel. I like the toughened version...

 

sg_ug_cntrl.png 

 

It takes a little longer to cure but is stronger and fills fillets on roll-cages very nicely. It also works exceptionally well for an edge-filler, in cases where you've opened a door or other panel, and the cutting wasn't perfect.


Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 23 March 2013 - 10:09 AM.


#8 charlie8575

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 08:12 PM

Tamiya Exta-Thin cement for a lot of stuff.

 

Testors in the tube for the times that I need to fiddle with stuff and want something that dries slowly.

 

Model Master clear parts cement for clear parts- I prefer it over white glue and similar stuff, finding it actually works.

 

Super-glue for stubborn parts.

 

Epoxy for resin and the other odd assemblies where it's appropriate.

 

Charlie Larkin



#9 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 08:19 PM

Gap filling glues can be found under the Testors brand as well as Tenax 7R, and Plastruct. The hottest of them being Tenax. It kicks quick and hard but can work against you on thin plastic sheet and small parts. Testors and Plastruct brand cure at about the same rate but the Plastruct will give the tougher bond.