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Big Scale WWI fighter updated 6-20-13


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#41 Harry P.

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 10:46 AM

Acrylic craft paint. There are several different brands, but they're basically all the same.

 

31iCog2FxNL_SL500_AA300_.jpg



#42 Tony T

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 03:44 PM

Great progress, Harry. Looking sharp!

#43 Harry P.

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 01:40 PM

It's not ready to fly... but it's ready to taxi!  :lol:

 

fuselage-with-vents_zps899a698e.jpg

 

The landing gear struts, axle, wheels, hubcaps, etc. are all cast metal parts. The reinforcing cables are silver thread supplied with the kit, and the turnbuckles are also kit supplied (cast metal). I painted the landing gear with Model Master paint. Since this model is meant to be built as a "skeleton," with the structure exposed and no skin, all of the outer detail parts on the fuselage do not come in the kit. I used my reference photos to create the small fuselage surface details, like the small squarish plates near the cockpit, the round flaps near the nose (made of the "pupil" of "googly eyes!!! and a "hinge" of styrene rod) and the vents that I made of strips of thin aluminum, bent to shape, and glued onto "flanges" made of this sheet styrene:

 

landing-gear_zps4fe159fb.jpg

 

Also finished up the tail skid:

 

tail-skid_zps2d9ec30b.jpg



#44 Custom Mike

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:17 PM

Unbelievable work Harry, the screw heads look great, and all that work with the veneer really paid off, it came out beautifully!

 

Now you'll really enjoy your next Pocher kit, when you gonna tackle that one?  :D 



#45 Cato

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:57 PM

Beautiful as always Harry.

How are the vertical and horizontal stabs covered? Is that silkspan and dope?



#46 Harry P.

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:02 PM

Unbelievable work Harry, the screw heads look great, and all that work with the veneer really paid off, it came out beautifully!

 

Now you'll really enjoy your next Pocher kit, when you gonna tackle that one?  :D

 

My next Pocher will probably be the brand new Aventador (is that how you spell it?). Due out this October.



#47 cobraman

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:18 PM

Looking very nice.



#48 Harry P.

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:29 PM

Beautiful as always Harry.

How are the vertical and horizontal stabs covered? Is that silkspan and dope?

 

Not exactly...  :lol:  It would have been if I was an actual model airplane builder and knew what I was doing!  :lol:

 

Actually cheap cotton cloth (leftover sail material from a ship kit!) and Future.



#49 Harry P.

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:46 PM

BTW... all along, I've been thinking about how I was going to form the metal parts of the fuselage... the cowling over the engine and the cone shaped piece between the front of the engine and the propeller cone.

 

For the cowling, I'm thinking sheet brass or aluminum. Should be straightforward enough. If Gerald Wingrove can make body panels out of brass, by god, so can I!  :lol:

 

But the conically-shaped piece up front... I wonder. I'm talking about the piece in red on the plane on the top, between the propeller cone and where the wooden panels begin (and actually, the propeller cone itself, I guess):

 

albatros1_zps5f4d9003.jpg

 

I'm thinking that a section of a L'eggs pantyhose egg could be just what I'm looking for. Does anyone know if they still come in those plastic eggs? Or is that a thing of the past?



#50 Cato

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 03:21 AM

You can try the L'eggs part but the contours may differ from the subject. I'd get some Renshape and carve / sand it.

For the hood panel (s) in metal-you have to practice beating it, maybe with heat to shrink the curves. I think the thinner the better. And you'd need a curved anvil to beat against-maybe the wife's daily driver?? :lol:

Should have asked me about the silkspan-I built and flew 1/4 scale R/C in the '70's and 80's.

Last was a 6' span CAP-10B with some fiberglass cloth covering and prior was a1930 Fleet mail bipe--7+' span.

CA was used extensively on spars and rib joins and epoxy on bulkheads. Would have speeded-up your process faster than the tube glue.

Jus' sayin' . :rolleyes:



#51 Harry P.

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 04:32 AM

You can try the L'eggs part but the contours may differ from the subject. I'd get some Renshape and carve / sand it.

For the hood panel (s) in metal-you have to practice beating it, maybe with heat to shrink the curves. I think the thinner the better. And you'd need a curved anvil to beat against-maybe the wife's daily driver?? :lol:

Should have asked me about the silkspan-I built and flew 1/4 scale R/C in the '70's and 80's.

Last was a 6' span CAP-10B with some fiberglass cloth covering and prior was a1930 Fleet mail bipe--7+' span.

CA was used extensively on spars and rib joins and epoxy on bulkheads. Would have speeded-up your process faster than the tube glue.

Jus' sayin' . :rolleyes:

 

Tube glue?

 

I'm using CA exclusively on the whole model.



#52 Cato

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 04:44 AM

 

Tube glue?

 

I'm using CA exclusively on the whole model.

My bad-soon I'll need a magnifier to read posts! :blink:



#53 Harry P.

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 07:29 AM

On to the wings for now...

 

Each separate wing rib has to be assembled before you can start assembling the wing. In other words... you have to assemble the individual parts before you can assemble those parts into a structure!

 

Each wing rib (for the upper and lower wings) is made up of several parts: the rib itself, the short vertical stiffener pieces on each side of the rib, and the cap strips that get attached longitudinally to the top and bottom edge of each rib. Multiply all of those parts for ONE rib, and multiply the ribs by how many are needed to build the upper and lower wings, and you come up with a long, tedious process.

 

First step is to glue the short vertical stiffeners onto both sides of each rib, and then trim each stiffener flush with the top and bottom of the rib:

 

stiffening-ribs_zps446e98cc.jpg

 

Then, each rib gets a cap strip on both the top and bottom edges, like this:

 

wing-ribs_zps6dc16698.jpg

 

I'll be at this for a while...   :rolleyes:



#54 cobraman

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 09:03 AM

How do you plan to display it when done ? Hang it ?



#55 Harry P.

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 09:33 AM

How do you plan to display it when done ? Hang it ?

 

Well... I haven't thought about that yet... :D



#56 Harry P.

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 09:24 AM

Once I had all the wing ribs built (rib, stiffeners and top and bottom caps), it was time to build the wings themselves. Basically all you do is slide the ribs onto the horizontal spars (in the correct order, the ribs have to go on in a particular order). Once all the ribs are in place, I laid the wing down on top of the plan and slid all the ribs into exact position using the plan as my guide. Once everything was in the correct spot and everything was squared up, I clamped the wing assembly to the edge of my work table and added a drop of CA to each rib/spar intersection:

 

wing_zpsec328180.jpg

 

In the photo you can see that one of the rib top caps popped off. No big deal, once the wing asembly is dry I'll just glue it back down. Then it's on to installing the leading and trailing edges of the wings, and the wing end caps, which I have to form by soaking some wood strip and then bending it to make the curves.

 

More to come...



#57 cobraman

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 10:07 AM

I think the tri wing Fokker would be a good "next" project for you. Whatcha think ?  : )



#58 Harry P.

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 10:11 AM

I think the tri wing Fokker would be a good "next" project for you. Whatcha think ?  : )

 

I think that would be one wing too many!  :lol:



#59 Cato

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 10:13 AM

Harry-has the wood provided been straight-like the spars? Had to cut new wood frequently in the old days. Is the die cutting clean or do you have to trim and remove 'hair'?

If you're not already doing so, put waxed paper on top of plan sheets and build / glue onto top of that. Also useful when you laminate those wing tips.

What happened with the spinner cone?



#60 Harry P.

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 11:14 AM

Al the wood is straight as an arrow, and very crisp and sharp. The diecuts are laser-cut, so the edges are absolutely sharp and perfect. I'm going to make the cone out of the tip of a plastic egg.