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1st annual demo derby cb


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#1 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 09:08 AM

me and a few other are into building derby cars on other sites and i figured id try to get more people involved heres some general rules to go by if u have any questions feel free to ask. u can build an old iron anything later than 1980's 80's and newer any car above 1980, compacts anything with a wheelbase less than 110 inches, and trucks 

 

the time limit on this build will be in November 15th 

 

if u are interested let me know with what class you would like to be in, what number u want your car to be and what kind of car you'll be running 

 

everyone must start with a new kit or an old gluebomb

 

FUEL TANK: If gas tank is above and/or in front of rear-end may remain in stock position. If gas tank is behind rear axle it must be moved to the inside is using stock tank, or may remain if punctured and auxilary tank is inside the car. Must have a kill switch if using an electric fuel pump.

I don't care about gasoline or alcohol. But, if you say it is one and it's not setup right and a judge whacks you - take this as a warning. You won't get zeros, but be smart. Original tanks should be removed, or at least drilled out if you cannot. Tanks should be centered in back seat. Homer posted: 5 DRAIN holes must be in floor around fuel tank. I do like that, it's a neat touch but not mandatory. Electric pumps have always been all right... run a kill switch for accuracy or you'll likely drop a toggle point or two.

EXTERIOR: All glass (excluding windshield) must be removed. Some cars have these things molded into their bodies. Do the best you can, we understand. Vinyl tops can stay, the rest should go. PA allows front windsheild glass to say in stock classes, so go ahead (and leave those inspection and reg stickers in place). Points will be scored higher on vinyl top conversions, and cars that had vinyl tops removed (with that rusted, stringy, adhesive-leftovers look) will be credited. You won't be penalized for a steel top.

ELECTRICAL: Battery(ies) - up to two - may be relocated to driver's compartment, preferably front passenger floor, secured to floor. Solenoids, computers may be relocated. THE CARSON CLAUSE: School bus batteries are allowed, please state this in your description. Advise clear pics of wiring/interior. Make your own terminals/batteries. Should be covered, but for intentions of pics and points, cover not neccessary.

IGNITION SWITCH: Complete ignition switch may be relocated and/or altered; key or toggle switches, open wiring, push button... do whatever, get creative. Clear pics will score better.

COOLING SYSTEM: Maybe bypassed. Cooling systems for oil, transmission, brakes and water can be moved inside car; electric fans are fine; should have a clutch of some sort.

..:: CAR NOTES ::..
Any (American or Foreign) hardtop, station wagon in full-size.

Compacts: same parameters apply to compacts with wheel bases under 110-inches (Four- and 6-cylinder engines only).

Use any make, model, year, body style (limo, hearse, wagon, convertible). Conversions will score better (indicate what it was, and what you turned it into).

Trucks: Any two- or four-wheel drive mini- or full-size truck, van or SUV.

If a car has been PREVIOUSLY run, identify that in the description. Pre-RUN is not the same as Pre-BENT. Pre-BENT is understood to be body preparation for battle. Pre-RUN is understood to be a car which has competed previously in a derby. Indicate repaints. If it has run and then sat around for a year and was merely washed off, then paint would crack somewhere.

..:: DRIVETRAIN ::..
ENGINE/MOTOR MOUNTS: Any motor, any transmission. Mounts at cradle can be welded in position. Run any transmission brace you want. The better built your brace, the better your tranny score. Plain jane, standard trannies will score 5's and under. Braces and cradles will help boost score. Engine mounted pedals, dip sticks, tranny cooler lines, oil cooler lines, hand-throttles, shifters, working shifters, return springs will all help boost score. Run any slider, or any rear. Reinforce if you wish. Run any stacks you wish, any exhaust pattern under the car also allowed (suggest dumping out by front doors).

DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR: May have an extention connecting DP and dash bar.

RADIATORS: Any radiator. Suggest ratchet-strapping or wiring in place; it will score better. Relocate if you want to. Run electric fan if you want to. Make sure wiring is dedicated in some way; make sure lines are run, too. Clear pics help.

TRANSMISSION: Mount maybe reinforced. Floor shifters allowed.

EXHAUST: You may run stacks.

TIRES: 2-4-6-8 ply. Dot. Car or Truck tires allowed, along with small implement tires (diggers), heavy-treads and bias ply narrow treads. No wheel weights, or studs on drive wheels. You may seal rim to tire bead, run bead locks and run deflectors on the valve stem. Tubes allowed. In short, any rims, any tires, any technique.

REAR-END: May be welded and leafed with rear end swaps and slider shafts allowed; braces allowed.

STEERING: Swap the shaft, quick connects all right. Multi-u-jointed steering shafts are ok.

..:: FRAME/SUSPENSION ::..

FRAME MODS: You may notch frame or bend the frame. Tilted Fords allowed.

Run your frame of choice; no hitches or whatever, swap mounts, four (4) extra frame-to-body bolts, no need for pucks (but if someone can do it well, it will score). Nothing added to frame. In the event you're custom or scratching a frame, please indicate so. I had a question on a GM frame regarding C-channell vs. box. It was a scratched frame and I didn't care, really. Hot pitched Fords that need to be cut at the crush boxes can be patched.

Furthemore, I'm not getting into the debate of top-welding or seam welding or whatever. You shouldn't plate it (simple derby honesty), and I have seen examples of all right jobs of welding a frame. But it's not going to do a thing, if it is even noticed by the judges. So... do whatever you think is best here. There's creativity in patching rusted spots or bent sections that had to be plated over, but no full plating/adding material. Keep it to one or two spots if you think you need to do that (and if you point it out and you can see it, it might actually score ok). I'm not advocating, but we'll leave room here for those who are looking to be creative. There's no room in this rule to allow a builder to argue their car is stronger than another.

SUSPENSION: Leaf conversions are ok; no arch plates on leafed cars. Arch plates are ALLOWED on cars running coil rears only. Reinforce your tierods, weld the front suspension using flat stock from lower A arm to the frame, and run rod in the front springs if you want. Run rod in the rear through the speaker deck or floor to adjust ride height if you wish (someone please make a good looking mosher this year!!).

CORE SUPPORT: Space it up on the tilted Fords. Allthread the core if you want, and go thru the hood. It will count as a tie down. Wrapping bumper wire around the core support all thread will count as two tie downs.

..:: EXTERIOR/BODY ::..
BODY OVERALL: Feel free to wedge. Feel free to tilt. Feel free to space. Feel free to cross fenders (80s ford nose on a new style body). Conversions encouraged. Feel free to smashtop. Feel free to V-crease, roll, pre-bend. Encourage you to describe your intentions (did this car run last year, sit all winter, get repainted and come back? Did you pre-bend the quarters? Is it a Chevy with a Buick clip?). You can patch holes in doors if this is a pre-run car, and can patch floors that have rusted away.

WHEEL OPENINGS: Wheel wells may be cut, and rolled for tire clearance. Bolts in each wheel lip are acceptable. Wheel openings cannot be covered over with additional metal. Maximum seven per opening.

HOOD: After inspection, hood may be secured in six (6) positions using chain, wire, seatbelts, cable, angle iron, bolts. Front bolts may run through core support or into the core mounts, but will count as hood tie-downs. Chaining of the bumper to/through the hood with chain routed through the hood will count as two of the hood tie-down positions. You may chain bumper to the frame. As a rule, if you aren't sure if it counts: if it crosses/overlaps the hood seam, it counts as a tiedown (chain/wirehood catchers on windows, wire looped through fenders to keep fenders in).

DOORS: May weld all door seams; Chain them shut or strap them shut. Strapping whole door frame shut allowed. May plate (one sheet of metal) over driver's door only if you wish. Window Posts strapped with Diamond plate are fine.

WINDOWS: Front allowed two straps from roof to cowl. If it goes to the hood, it's a tiedown. May run from roof to dashbar, but not from the roll over bar. Sedans/Coupes: Rear window may have a up to 2 pieces of metal from the roof to the floor, or to trunk hinge/seam. May be round tube, box tube, bar, strap or nine-wire. Should extend straight down from rear roofline/window opening. Should not extend to/into/through trunk. Wagons: May wire quarter windows. No metal bolted/chained/welded over window opening extending over rear wheels.

TRUNK/TAILGATE: Maybe secured by welding, or using chain, wire, seatbelts, cable or bolts. Folding, cutting, tucking, wedging, V-creasing is allowed. No plating over the whole trunk. Station wagons/hatchbacks may be sedagoned. Welding/diamond-plate over all seams is allowed.


..:: DRIVER COMPARTMENT/CAGES ::..
A pillar - post by front fender to the front doors
B Pillar - between front and rear doors/post to back window on 2dr sedans
C pillar - Between rear door and quarter panel
Kicker - anything extending to the frame with intention or effectiveness in preventing frame movement.
Roof - area between the front and rear windows, and left and right side windows
Interior - area behind the firewall, extending back to and not beyond the speaker deck/back seat frame/trunk hinge mounts/rear window/C pillar.

One bar REQUIRED on all cars behind the seat.

Dash bar from side-to-side behind firewall is allowed; but is optional. Nothing built through the firewall other than dp-dash kicker.

Door bars should not extend beyond the middle of the rear doors; they're also optional. Allowed two downward kickers or supports built off the frame per side (2 left, 2 right). Should go straight down, no angles. Nothing built down to frame can extend beyond the plane of the seat bar (not into trunk or into back seat area). Allowed a roll over bar inside the car.

Halo bars and roll over bars can have nothing extending to or from them, except for the suppor that extends to the door/seat bar(s). A rollover bar is allowed but must be off seat or door bars, nothing extending to the floor, frame, trunk, hood. Seat brace should be against seat, side braces no longer than it takes to hold up seat brace. No door-to-door bars behind the seat bar. Seat bar is the last allowed full-width bar. It should touch the seat.

Fuel tank protectors allowed, as you wish. Build it off the seat bar. Allowed supports to the floor, not the frame (only cage-to-frame connections would be off door bars). Cannot tie into roll bar (interior/exterior) or rear window bars/straps. May touch back seat framework or inner wheel wells. May build off the tank protector upward under roof and inside back window. Free standing tank protectors/fuel cells should be bolted to the floor only, not through the frame.

Exterior: Roll over bar will be built off seat bar, and can lean backward, not extending beyond the roof area. Nothing to be built off the roll over bar or it's vertical supports.

Bars must be on inside of car, excluding halo, window or rollover bars.

*** limited to one roll over bar either in or out of the car, your choice ***

KICKERS: NO Kickers allowed. Not to the core support, not off the roof and to the trunk. No bars allowed outiside the driver's compartment (excluding roll bars). Nothing to the core support or beyond the inner quarters/wheel wells. NO Down tubes or kickers to the core support allowed. Four-door cars using a four-point cage should not have door bars extending beyond the midpoint of the rear doors. Door bars cannot attach to the fuel cell holster/protector.

BUMPERS: Shocks and brackets maybe welded. May interchange car bumpers; cross them over, weld them on, build your own (replicas of a bumper, no 'square tube' or 'box steel' bumpers). Damaged bumpers will carry better than undamaged bumpers. Bumpers with vents can be plated over. Vents that are painted black (like a vent would be in a real car) will probably get positive attention. Go ahead and trim the ends. Put the shocks in the frame if you want. Put washers or nuts on the bumper and string it back to the hood. Chain it to the frame. Weld the chain to the bumper, then back to the frame. But if it crosses the hood seam, it's counting as a tie down.

 

these are contest rules but dont worry about scoring or anything this is just a fun build for those who are interested 

 

#71. camarofreak82_427   old iron   1957 pontiac belvedere 
        blevinsracing              old iron   1976 caprise classic  

        DrKerry                       old iron   1967 Pontiac GTO

        502                             old iron   1978 Dodge Monaco


Edited by camarofreak82_427, 09 May 2013 - 02:45 PM.


#2 DailyGrindCustoms

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 04:16 PM

Im gonna jump in this... Now to decide compact or fullsize car...



#3 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:49 AM

Lol u could alway do both lol. Im thinkin about doin 80s n newer either the lowrider caddy or a bubble top of some sort

#4 DailyGrindCustoms

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 10:31 AM

That is true... I figured I could pair this with the truck and trailer CBP and just put the cars on the trailer... So kill two birds with one stone.. I'll have to find what kind of cars I want to run.... Do many people do the 70s monte carlos?



#5 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 11:38 AM

i hear alot about the 70 moties haveing awesome frames for scale derby car builds. i think on some kits the frame is seperate ive never built one yet tho. and feel free to bring a truck and trailer to haul it, i think it would be sweet



#6 Tom Geiger

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:16 AM

 u can build an old iron anything later than 1980's 80's and newer any car above 1980, compacts anything with a wheelbase less than 110 inches, and trucks 

 

Why are you limiting this to 1980 and above cars?  I drove the derby in NJ in the 1980s and there were a good amount of 1960s and 1970s cars.  Our rules were quite different than the ones you listed above too.  I once ran a '73 Cougar that someone had given me for the purpose.  One of my favorites was a 1970 Chevy 4 door sedan.



#7 JunkPile

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:56 AM

I think he may have meant 1980 and older as early iron.  Crinkle Zones in the frames of '80 and newer gives the early iron cars too much of an advantage



#8 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 02:11 PM

correct junkpile as in old iron its anything from 79 and older. Im not sure the exact reason they have an 80s and newer class u may be correct. if u want to build an 80s car for old iron that would be fine also.

The rules I got were from a model contest I did over the summer every event has different rules these are just general quid lines to give the closest representation of the real deal.

I chose these classes because that's what we run at our local fairs and just thought it would be easy to classify this way. I hope I answered some questions if u have anymore feel free to ask

 thanks



#9 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 02:19 PM

i dont have any pics yet but i am running old iron its a 57 pontiac beldevere i got this car on trade from another sight. its an old glue bomb and will have a diferent chassis under it as soon as i get one to fit lol. ill post pics when i get some. hope this thread pics up soon id like to see some sweet derby cars



#10 blevinsracing

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 09:56 AM

Count me in the old iron class with this Chevy Caprice

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#11 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 09:57 AM

awesome your in should be a fun time 



#12 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 10:01 AM

well finaly got her home today shes a little rough but already stripped by a previous owner. i got a few derby cars ahead of it already started but will get it in the shop soon and weld her up 

 

IMG_20130325_183029_zps7e7d8557.jpg

IMG_20130325_183013_zpseb68f83a.jpg



#13 blevinsracing

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 03:49 PM

I'm building this to look like the heavy prebent cars that are run around here. A afternoon with a lighter, soldering iron and dremel....... More to come!!!!!     Looks like its gonna be tough in that arena with that plymouth

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#14 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 04:52 PM

U sue made quick work with that caprice today looks pretty realistic to me

#15 blevinsracing

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 05:11 PM

Thanks, it goes pretty quick with a lighter and a dremel, lol. The rest of the building after the body is done will slow things down quite a bit.



#16 DailyGrindCustoms

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 07:15 PM

Im trying to figure what car to build..... Sucks I havent gotten started, but I am gonna go all out.



#17 blevinsracing

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 08:18 AM

Finally found some resin parts I lost, 4 ss wheels, boat tank, battery box, and the zoomies :)

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#18 blevinsracing

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 06:43 PM

IMG_1932_zpsa755ee75.jpgIMG_1929_zps177e61e5.jpgIMG_1930_zpse5472b72.jpg

Got the front fenders pre-dented, a little done on the underhood detail, and am continuing to work on the trunk.



#19 blevinsracing

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 06:45 PM

IMG_1931_zps0348aa36.jpg



#20 camarofreak82_427

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 10:46 AM

Looks great. I'm buildin a car for a xontest on another sight at the monent but the pontiac is next in line. I'm excited to start somthing different